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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys...

I purchased a couple of the scalextric Porsche GT1s from the RACER magazine with the intention on keeping one standard and repainting the other. I removed the tampo's, cleaned the body and lightly sanded the surface before spraying it with halford undercoat - however i managed to created the most awful orange peel/stucco/artex like finish.... and I'm having real difficulty in removing it. Any ideas? Thanks
 

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I find that using tackcloth or even better alcohol before painting (or undercoating) gives a good finish. To remove it either use some wet 'n' dry fine or rubbing compound but be gentle


The above suggestions are based on what i do with 1/8 scale RC body shells.
 

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I have had good luck with a couple of methoids for removing paint.....

The first one I tried and use a lot is a 50/50 misture of brake fluid and alcohol..
soak the body for a few days and the paint is off..... do your clean up (body lines) with a old tooth brush....

the other I have been using is Castro Super clean..... us it the same way only straight from the bottle....

The only problem I have had is I have learned not to use the brake fluid and alcohol on the tupper ware type plastic that SCX uses on some of their older bodies....... you end up with a ball of plastic... the paint is gone but so is the body

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Gazman, I'll have another go with the wet n dry... I did have a crack with that, but it was faily labour intensive... Its one hell of a mess!

Cheers
 

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John
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Hi Guys,
I've just managed to get some Merc slk bodies and a couple of toyota supra shells.

They were in a car kit for £1 each!

They are painted.....badly and the finish is terrible.

I'm also looking to strip them, don't mind trying the brake fluid thing, but is the castro stuff from USA?

Let you know how things go, but I'll still watch for any more suggestions!


BSN
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll give the brake fluid thing a go I think - Its doing my head in sanding off the undercoat - its got right in to every detail and is a nightmare! The other option is to cut my losses and start again with a new one, but the missus may not agree.
 

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With my painting skills i OFTEN have this problem

I use a product called model strip that i just buy from my model shop it's reasonbly priced and very easy to use just slap it on leave the model in a bag over night and rinse off the next day. Problem solved
then i clean it off with a medi wipe (alcohol) and start all over again. Probably having to strip the body yet again after yet another botched paint job.
I have never had a problem with distorting bodies from using this product.

Wayne
 

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Mr Muscle oven cleaner has worked for me in the past with some paint/plastic combinations. Place the body in an air tight tupperware type container spray on the oven cleaner put the lid on and leave until all the foam has gone. Most of the paint is usually off after one application, depends on how thick/old the paint is I guess. Some paints it won't touch though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tried the mr muscle oven cleaner... this is after I used a leveling spray to reactivate the paint - all that happend was a bad smell and a reaction with the plastic - nothing that can't be rectified with a bit of filler and wet n dry though!!!
 

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Some paints come off if you just soak the car in Windex or some other window cleaner. Doesn't work for all of them though. I know media blasting using sodium bicarbonate will remove paint without harming the body if you're careful but that might not be something too many people can do since you need a media blaster
 

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Al Schwartz
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I'm wondering if the Halford's product (don't have that here) might be laquer based - in which case the "wrinkling" might actually be in the plastic itself - if that is the case, sanding is probably the only way back.

EM
 

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Ah! Brake fluid!!!

Fine on metal, but will rot most plastics!

Try "Model Strip" it can be tricky to get in the post, because of the chemicals, but most good models shops will stock it.

Basically its a paste you apply about 2mm thick, wrap in plastic to keep air tight (don't let it get dry) 24 hours latter wash it off with water and all paint removed, it also has the advantage of not removing Decals sometimes.

Specifically designed to remove paint from plastic's.

Gareth
 

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Just last night I was doing a little research into stripping paint, mainly because I have just acquired my next restoration project courtesy of a fellow Slot Forum member Farnham Nerfee, thank you Jamie.




Anyway, found this rather interesting & informative article here discusses the merits of a few techniques.

James
 

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By far the simplest solution for removing old paint from plastic models is to mix up a caustic soda solution in a plastic container. Make sure the clear parts like windows etc are removed and then submerge the body for five to ten minutes. If you have done it properly the whole painted area will slowly peel off before your eyes.

There will be a mild turbid action in the container and it may get quite warm. There will also be a strong caustic vapour given off. But apart from this, I have not found an equal that is as quick or efficient or thorough. The process can be aided by using an old tooth brush on the fine details. The only colour that shows any resistance to this is some matt blacks??

Many an old scalex,airfix, MRRC, etc .... has been harmlessly restored using this process.

Be sure to rinse the plasic body well in clean water after.

Caustic soda was the main constituant in paint removers years ago. It may also be called Sugar Soap. Please use as directed on the tin

Three important observations,

WEAR RUBBER GLOVES!

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN TO THE LETTER!

USE IN A VENTILATED PLACE!

If you're not sure about the last three items then you might need to use one of the previous methods.
 

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I subscribe to the brake fluid method - have for many years.

This is how I remove baked on commercial paint jobs. Submerge the body in brake fluid for about 20 minutes, and then actively scrub the paint with an old toothbrush and some 600 water paper. Frequently washing in clean water to stunt the brake fluid reaction with the plastic.

NEVER leave it for more than an hour without rinsing in clean, running water to keep an eye on the integreity of the plastic.

Did I mention you need to constantly be vigilante to use running water to slow the degeneration of the plastic?
 

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Yes, the super clean is a USA product, but you might be able to find it in any good automotive parts store on your side of the pond

Chris
 

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I had to strip a car the other week and found of all things Nail Polish Remover the easiest to use. Its quick and makes a bit of a mess to start with but this comes off cleanly with T-Cut and then you're ready to paint.

Full details at the bottom of my How To page.

In my experience it doesn't react with the plastic and you don't have to sand down so you shouldn't risk damaging your bodies.
 
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