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I've been waiting a long time to use one of Pendle's superb new PCS32 chassis. They are ideal for the scratchbuilder and especially useful for those of us who prefer to model older cars. They have a narrow cross section, short front guide and can suit both very short and long wheelbase cars.
I also like to sometimes use some of the extensive range of lexan shells available from many suppliers around the Globe. Most of these shells are finished in both scale size and "handling" width, i.e 2.5". The normal method to mount these shells to a chassis is to use mounting pins through the base of the shell which fit into small diameter tubing either soldered or glued to the side pans of the receiving chassis. This is not really possible with this chassis as the side pans are located not at the base of the chassis but some way up the side. I'm not really sure why Pendle chose to construct the chassis with this arrangement for the side pans perhaps someone could explain.
The method I have used is to mount the shell via mounting posts :-
The picture below shows stage one (Apologise for the quality, but do you realise how difficult it is to photograph clear shells?)
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Lexan shells should be painted on the inside so mounting posts to the shell directly is not possible as it would ruin the appearance of the paint finish. The method I use is to attach the posts to the chassis and roughly set the posts to the correct height so that the body sits squarely on the posts.
Next when you have noted where the posts touch the shell paint that area with your top coat, in my case Revell Enamel (yes enamel) British Green. Leave this to dry for at least a day.
Next cut to length two pieces of wooden coffee stirrer,, (thin balsa would be as good) and attach to the shell with a PVA based adhesive, you must make sure that no adhesive finds it's way onto an unpainted section of the shell.
When this is dry place the shell on the chassis and complete your final levelling work to ensure the body fits correctly.
Next, apply two part resin epoxy adhesive to the wooden plates and carefully place your body and tighten the fixing screws. Again it is essential not to allow the epoxy to touch any of your paintwork. Allow one day for this to set.
Picture two shows the shell with the mounting posts attached :-
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I construct my mounting posts from Plastistrut in two parts. The inner section is of the same diameter as the mounting screw. The outer casing is made up of slightly larger diameter Plastistrut superglued to the inner post.
Next complete the painting of the interior of the shell.
The finished car :-
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This is a very easy way to use this excellent chassis with a much wider variety of bodies than those available from kits or the major manufacturers. It is also a very inexpensive way of building a slot car.
Regards
Alan
I also like to sometimes use some of the extensive range of lexan shells available from many suppliers around the Globe. Most of these shells are finished in both scale size and "handling" width, i.e 2.5". The normal method to mount these shells to a chassis is to use mounting pins through the base of the shell which fit into small diameter tubing either soldered or glued to the side pans of the receiving chassis. This is not really possible with this chassis as the side pans are located not at the base of the chassis but some way up the side. I'm not really sure why Pendle chose to construct the chassis with this arrangement for the side pans perhaps someone could explain.
The method I have used is to mount the shell via mounting posts :-
The picture below shows stage one (Apologise for the quality, but do you realise how difficult it is to photograph clear shells?)
Lexan shells should be painted on the inside so mounting posts to the shell directly is not possible as it would ruin the appearance of the paint finish. The method I use is to attach the posts to the chassis and roughly set the posts to the correct height so that the body sits squarely on the posts.
Next when you have noted where the posts touch the shell paint that area with your top coat, in my case Revell Enamel (yes enamel) British Green. Leave this to dry for at least a day.
Next cut to length two pieces of wooden coffee stirrer,, (thin balsa would be as good) and attach to the shell with a PVA based adhesive, you must make sure that no adhesive finds it's way onto an unpainted section of the shell.
When this is dry place the shell on the chassis and complete your final levelling work to ensure the body fits correctly.
Next, apply two part resin epoxy adhesive to the wooden plates and carefully place your body and tighten the fixing screws. Again it is essential not to allow the epoxy to touch any of your paintwork. Allow one day for this to set.
Picture two shows the shell with the mounting posts attached :-
I construct my mounting posts from Plastistrut in two parts. The inner section is of the same diameter as the mounting screw. The outer casing is made up of slightly larger diameter Plastistrut superglued to the inner post.
Next complete the painting of the interior of the shell.
The finished car :-
This is a very easy way to use this excellent chassis with a much wider variety of bodies than those available from kits or the major manufacturers. It is also a very inexpensive way of building a slot car.
Regards
Alan
