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Andy Player
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had one of them break off and the 'down-plates' on my Penske body are slightly cracked. And I know I'm not the only person to have problems.

If superglue isn't working for you, I reckon there are other options.

I did this to my old Aussie Vineyards body last night:



It's a small piece of black polycarbonate packaging, cut to size and then glued to the underside of the nose. I filed a flat notch to hold the wing flat.



I used Shoo Goo which John F put me on to. Apparently it's the best thing to bond lexan. I've found it extremely strong, yet quite flexible, for gluing various bits on HO bodies.

For this, I filled up the front of the nose with Goo and squished the plastic sheet down on it. It has set very strongly in less than 24 hours. I did the side plates with the same stuff. They are a bit messy, but will clean up.

So - if you still have the original wing, maybe try some Shoo Goo (available from all good skateboarding shops) on that.

Or try the new wing. It is not legal at EAHORC, but you can run it at WHO and maybe (Tony??) in Super-F1 at SCHORC.

Or you could donate your old [email protected] body to us at WHO to fix up and pass on to some of our racers who have LMP Mega-Gs and are after a low cost F1 option. A low-denomination trade might even be possible
 

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QUOTE (woodcote @ 20 Jan 2012, 19:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Or try the new wing. It is not legal at EAHORC, but you can run it at WHO and maybe (Tony??) in Super-F1 at SCHORC.

Its not a problem at SCHORC, we are not that a**l about things
 

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This has cropped up a couple of times recently. I lost faith with super glue a long time ago as there is still a joint to fail.
I now use a solvent weld product.
It's called 'EMA Plastic Weld' and is made by EMA Model Supplies. I bought some from Squires Tools at a show but I would expect a good model shop to stock it. It cost me £2.85 for a 57 ml bottle. Use a cheap paint brush to apply as it leaves plastic residue on the bristles but keep b it and reuse. See http://www.squirestools.com/13-16.pdf , it's on page 297. It works by literally dissolving the plastic on both sides of the 'joint' which reforms when the solvent evaporates to give continous plastic. In other words there is no joint, just one bigger piece of plastic, so nothing to come apart.....
Simply make sure the joint fits together reasonably well, apply to both sides of the joint twice and leave for 30 secs, apply again then assemble keeping it all still. After a couple of minutes give the joint another 'paint'. Then leave in a warm place for 24 hours.
I've tried others (eg Humbrol Liquid Poly) but not all do all plastics or seem to give a good enough 'melt'.
I've used EMA for years and never yet had a failure. All those painted Mega-G bodies now with new EAHORC owners were done this way and it great to run into cracks. Backing a joint with very thin plastcard can also help.
Keep in the fridge to prevent evaporation and one bottle should last years!

Hope this helps

Clive
 

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I think that the EMA product is, MEK, Methylethylkeytone (Butanone), which an unpleasant material that has to be used with care and ventilation. It is used as a poly pipe solvent weld product, in the plastics industry, plumbing etc, it can be bought as a gel called 'polypipe solvent weld' amongst others, as a gel it is a bit stringy to use, but sticks pipes good!!
 

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Andy Player
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (slowracer @ 21 Jan 2012, 07:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Its not a problem at SCHORC, we are not that a**l about things
With all due respect Tony - and realising your tongue is partially (if not fully) engaged in cheek - I do like the national regs.

The Mega-G is a fine-looking car, so looking at pics of the national series, I like to see the Mega-Gs at their best. Plus some very nicely-liveried lexans, Mod cars (roll-1-later's is fab), real-life Nascars etc all adds to the prestige of HO, I reckon.

At a club level it might be different, of course. Things can be a bit looser - but it's still good to see some nice-looking cars on show.



We do our best


Part of the reason for starting the thread was to get some wing-less Champcars looking good again
 

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QUOTE (woodcote @ 22 Jan 2012, 13:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>With all due respect Tony - and realising your tongue is partially (if not fully) engaged in cheek - I do like the national regs.

Part of the reason for starting the thread was to get some wing-less Champcars looking good again


I quite applaud the wing repair, and that was the nature of the reply, a full set of wings on the MG is a must imho, as the original national rule actually made it necessary to have a 'repaired' wing for it to run! And that is really my point.
 

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Good article as always Woodcote. I have a full tilt mega G champ car body with a broken front wing. I smashed it off at the second corner at MBR! I still have the wing. If anyone at WHO is interested let me know. I am on the look out for a Tomy turbo sports car body if anyone has any spare, not fussed if it's tatty, as it will get painted.

Cheers

Jim

 
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