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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought 3 Arii model kits from a supplier in Japan. The car I was after was a Nissan 1971 Skyline KPGC10 GTR for use in a club class and to keep the postage cost down a bit, per kit, I also bought a 1965 Porsche 911S and as I've fancied having a go at one of the small Japanese cars a 1964 Honda S600. Size wise it just a little smaller than the MG Midget but it's 606cc inline 4 engine had four carbs and produced 57 hp, not macthed by the Midget untill the 1098cc engine was fitted and was also slightly faster at 90 mph.

Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Car

As I had hoped the kit is fairly simple and quite similar to the early Airfix kits. The kit can be built with top lowered or raised. I had hoped to build without the bumpers but although that might be possible it would involve a lot more work than I intend for this simple build, the front bumper is moulded with the front grill and could be cut off without to much trouble but the rear bumper is moulded to the underpan and rear valance. In fact both the front and rear valance are part of the underpan and will need to be separated. Other than that the basic body shell consists of the body, the front grill and bumper and the boot lip/infill lights panel.

Chassis wise it am thinking of modifying the 3D printed chassis I used for the Super Shells Sharknose Ferrari, see thread here, but I will adapt it to take a S can motor as I have quite a few of these.
 

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Some of the range include kits with white metal motors and such..make into rather sweet scale models..and decent slot cars ..ive a number in my stash and all pretty much bang on scale…not cheap at all..but quality scale models in 1/32 are few and far between..you’ve got one of my favourite 1/1 cars going..very cool stuff indeed..esp as a slot car- it may not be any sort of race winner..but what the heck sure looks fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The basic body shell

Vehicle Hood Car Automotive design Window


The kits underpan is located to the body with four locating pins and the sockets for the look like nice little chassis mounting points.

Electric blue Auto part Plastic Composite material Font


To make shure the chassis will fit I have had to fit the grill, rear boot seal and the front and rear valances which I have removed from the underpan.

Car Vehicle Blue Hood Automotive design


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Blue Hood


The wheelbase is about 63mm and the width across the rear wheels will a max of 40mm. The overall body length, bumper to bumper, is 104mm and overall width is 46mm, the body height is about 20mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In the end I decided to start the chassis from one of my S can designs

Trigger Air gun Gun barrel Automotive exterior Wood

Font Parallel Lego Logo Graphics


Due to the very short gap between the front axle and front of the body I will be using the front of the Ferrari chassis

Font Rectangle Magenta Parallel Logo


This is the guide and pickup bracket from the Ferrari chassis

Rectangle Font Logo Diagram Magenta


I deleted the guide bracket from the chassis and inserted this in it's place.

Lego Font Recreation Toy Fictional character


Next amend the chassis mounting points.


Rectangle Automotive exterior Auto part Font Metal


My first test print, to check if the mounting points would work..
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Next was to adjust the wheelbase

Rectangle Automotive exterior Font Auto part Metal


and another test print..
Rectangle Electric blue Font Plastic Fashion accessory


I got the wheelbase right but somehow had the axles in the completely wrong place so on to the next attempt
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Adjusted the location of the axles, hopefully right this time

Rectangle Automotive exterior Auto part Font Metal

Rectangle Electric blue Wood Plastic Musical instrument


Looks like I got it right this time

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Electric blue Plastic Auto part Font Gadget


next i need to get the correct location for the rear axle, the front is adjustable, and then see if I can use a S can motor. At the moment a S can motor sits almost flush with the body top so depending on the final rear axle position I may have to switch to a slim can motor. I also need to shorten the rear mounting points and move the bracket up on the chassis. After that I will need to reposition the motor brackets depending on the final motor used.
 

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What wheels & tyres did you manage to fit?
 

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Mine's sitting on old Scalextric Mini//Escort wheels with modified arches

Hood Automotive lighting Playstation portable Bumper Video game console
 

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@ Trevor Ford - much better paint detailing on the fiddly windscreen frame than my build. Just put on silver trim tape which now, five years later, looks terrible in comparison. Time for removal and paint detailing.



Agreed that it's a puny little car, but is fun to drive around the track with the bigger cars.

Here's my build link from long ago.


Had been inspired to build with a slimline motor after driving one in a small car proxy.

Thanks for posting Beardy.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Having got the wheelbase sorted next up was to get the rear axle height sorted. A few measurements and a test print.

Wheel Product Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire


Looks pretty good, will need to adjust the rear mounting bracket but other than that definitely looks ok.

Then old age set in and I loaded an earlier version of the chassis and made the axle adjustments to that and when printed the axles were in completely the wrong place. Having corrected that error and after another few prints with minor errors I thought I was there. I then decided to change from a C can motor to a long can style by All Slot. I also dropped the adjustable front axle in place of a fixed one.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire


All looked good until I tried to attach the braids and both the mounting blocks came away. To give clearance for the front axle I had reduced the thickness of the plate at the bottom of the chassis front but the braid blocks were attached to this and I forgot to adjust them downwards and they were only attached by a corner to the front of the chassis. A few more adjustments and after a bit cutting and filing I have a working chassis.
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Wheels and tyres are 13" from Pendle's, crown gear is a Sloting 25T with a 8t pinion.


Following some track testing I do need to change the soft braid for something a bit stiffer.

I've also primed the body

Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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22k FK180 is HUGE overkill for this, a Ninco NC2 would be more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You would think so but it's not the fast at 12v on my little home track, as per the above video, may get quicker as it all gets run in, will have to see what it's like at my club track at some point. At the moment I'm using what I've go, I could have used one of my slim can motors but at 9v on battery test they all seem to be revving quite a bit faster than the All Slot. Next parts order will probably have to include some 16k and 18k slim can and some S can but until then I will use up what I have:)
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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You would think so but it's not the fast at 12v on my little home track, as per the above video, may get quicker as it all gets run in, will have to see what it's like at my club track at some point. At the moment I'm using what I've go, I could have used one of my slim can motors but at 9v on battery test they all seem to be revving quite a bit faster than the All Slot. Next parts order will probably have to include some 16k and 18k slim can and some S can but until then I will use up what I have:)
On tyres that skinny a 12k S-can would be more than enough oomph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don't think an S can would fit, not unless I changed to 14" wheels, as there is less than 1mm under the motor now. At some point it will get a low power slim can which I think will fit ok without having to print a new chassis, maybe just make a little bracket for the front of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Topcoat applied, Zero paints again, Racing White (Light Cream) (TS7) which is the colour of the 1960's Honda F1 cars.

Wheel Car Vehicle Tire Motor vehicle


The Honda decals are from the kit and the racing decals are a further nod to the 1960's Honda F1 cars and are by Pattos Place. Next clearcoat and then detail painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Problems and then disaster.

Problem:-

As stated above, and can be seen in the video, although the motor is rated at 22k the car seemed quite slow only home track and last week I tried it on the club track and it was still very slow. The motor is fine so two potential problem areas are the axle bearings being out of alignment or the motor being out of alignment with the rear axle. The rear axle feels quite free so that doesn't seem to be the problem. The motor seems to have the same low voltage revs in or out of the chassis. That leaves the potential of the motor and axle being out of alignment but it all looks ok to the old eyeball mk1 and they are set correct in the 3D design. So for the moment things are on hold. I may go back to using the Ferrari Sharknose chassis with the wheelbase adjusted and a slimline motor.

Disaster:-


Gave the body it's clear topcoat using Zero Paints standard gloss clearcoat, which has not given me any problems with decals so far.
Font Hood Material property Automotive design Magenta


This is one of the kit decals and no problems.

However this is what happened with the Pattos decals



Wheel Vehicle Tire Toy Hood


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Blue Hood Azure Grille Rectangle


Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Vehicle door Automotive lighting Material property


Don't know if I went to quick with the second coat or what but it's only the ink area that's reacted, the carrier film seem fine, and it's all the Pattos decals but none of the kit decals. So was I just unlucky with these ones or is it a bad carrier film letting the clearcoat getting to the ink?

This build is now defiantly on hold.
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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I like to listen to motors running at 12v, you can use an app called Giri to measure rpm or get a cheap laser tacho but your ear is best in the first instance compared to a motor you know runs OK.
 
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