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3,417 Posts
Thanks, I'm pretty sure that I have one. I'll take a look
EM
EM
Building a Pre-Add BRM
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QUOTE If anyone went out and ordered parts on the basis of my last post - I warned you at the outset
Wha? ...and I've got 25 gallons of pale green duck egg blue (aka "sky type S") on the way too
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Great entertainment EM - Thank you! Keep it coming
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Wha? ...and I've got 25 gallons of pale green duck egg blue (aka "sky type S") on the way too
Great entertainment EM - Thank you! Keep it coming
QUOTE I immediatley realized that the spacing between the axle carriers was too narrow ... Does anyone make metal crown gears with an internal hub?
I had a similar problem with fitting and finding gears for my repro F1 chassis recently. As far as I can tell, the only current gears with a tooth-side boss would seem to be the Slot-It as you say or the press on Scalextric type. Fortunately, I had some old Riko bevels from the '60s which I was able to use.
I had a similar problem with fitting and finding gears for my repro F1 chassis recently. As far as I can tell, the only current gears with a tooth-side boss would seem to be the Slot-It as you say or the press on Scalextric type. Fortunately, I had some old Riko bevels from the '60s which I was able to use.
Joined
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3,417 Posts
Almost rolling: The next logical step was wheels and tires - I like to have those set before I do the body mounts - measuring and calculating is fine but, in the end, I want to see what it looks like!
I decided to take a shortcut and modify some BWA wheels I had on hand. Here's the before and after:
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For those interested in the process: I mount a wheel on a piece of 3/32 drill blank and chuck it in a 3/32 collet then face off the front back to the edge of the rib. The depression for the tire is then machined - I used a 60 degree indexable carbide tool perpendicular to the work giving me a 30 degree angle on either side. The wheel front is then hogged out with a 5/16" end mill mounted in the tailstock (could go larger but that is all the chuck will handle. The recess is then finished with a boring bar to a 0.505" ID to suit cut-down Ninco wires as inserts. (I run the boring bar in until I hit the set screw - this messes up the screw and threaded hole but this is not a problem since I subsequently cross-drill the brake drum to take a 1-72 set screw. This allows me to glue the tire on and true it without worrying about access to the mounting screw) The wheel is removed and the axle pushed thru to allow it to be mounted backwards. The rear section was turned down to 0.44" - to make a 14" brake drum. there was a fair amount of back and forth on the dimesions of the wheel, mounting and unmounting various tires until I got the "look" that I wanted:
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From left to right: two rear wheels with Ortman 1/32 tires mounted, one cndidate front with and EJ's #15 tire and at far right, the same wheel with a 3/16" cross section O-ring mounted and grond down to provide a flat tread ( More about the O-rings later)
The difference in width is apparent:
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Again, left to right: Ortmann, EJ (rounded), O-ring
And finally -
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AlFin drums, of course!
The O rings are an experiment - perhaps a bit too rounded for anything later than about 1950 but pretty good earlier than that and, I think, better than most choices for 30's and earlier. They are available in a vast range of cross sections and diameters in fractional inch, decimal inch and metric measurements. I have no idea if they offer any traction at all - not a concern for fronts - but I shall see if they can be coated with RTV silicone such as Permatex Form-A-Gasket to serve as rears as well. In addition to the size range, they offer another advantage - they are about $6.00 for a bag of 50!
Now that I have wheel dimensions, I can cut the axles and front bearing tube to length and get things rolling.
Time - about 2 hours to figure out the first wheel and tire set-up - 20 minutes each to do the rest
Costs: 2 pr BWA wheels @ $6.50/pr, set of Ninco wheels - about $5.00, Ortmann & EJs tires - $10 - axles $1.00 (I buy ground drill blanks in lots of 25 from an industrial supply house)
Looks like it's going to be about a $90-$100 slot car
EM
I decided to take a shortcut and modify some BWA wheels I had on hand. Here's the before and after:
For those interested in the process: I mount a wheel on a piece of 3/32 drill blank and chuck it in a 3/32 collet then face off the front back to the edge of the rib. The depression for the tire is then machined - I used a 60 degree indexable carbide tool perpendicular to the work giving me a 30 degree angle on either side. The wheel front is then hogged out with a 5/16" end mill mounted in the tailstock (could go larger but that is all the chuck will handle. The recess is then finished with a boring bar to a 0.505" ID to suit cut-down Ninco wires as inserts. (I run the boring bar in until I hit the set screw - this messes up the screw and threaded hole but this is not a problem since I subsequently cross-drill the brake drum to take a 1-72 set screw. This allows me to glue the tire on and true it without worrying about access to the mounting screw) The wheel is removed and the axle pushed thru to allow it to be mounted backwards. The rear section was turned down to 0.44" - to make a 14" brake drum. there was a fair amount of back and forth on the dimesions of the wheel, mounting and unmounting various tires until I got the "look" that I wanted:
From left to right: two rear wheels with Ortman 1/32 tires mounted, one cndidate front with and EJ's #15 tire and at far right, the same wheel with a 3/16" cross section O-ring mounted and grond down to provide a flat tread ( More about the O-rings later)
The difference in width is apparent:
Again, left to right: Ortmann, EJ (rounded), O-ring
And finally -
AlFin drums, of course!
The O rings are an experiment - perhaps a bit too rounded for anything later than about 1950 but pretty good earlier than that and, I think, better than most choices for 30's and earlier. They are available in a vast range of cross sections and diameters in fractional inch, decimal inch and metric measurements. I have no idea if they offer any traction at all - not a concern for fronts - but I shall see if they can be coated with RTV silicone such as Permatex Form-A-Gasket to serve as rears as well. In addition to the size range, they offer another advantage - they are about $6.00 for a bag of 50!
Now that I have wheel dimensions, I can cut the axles and front bearing tube to length and get things rolling.
Time - about 2 hours to figure out the first wheel and tire set-up - 20 minutes each to do the rest
Costs: 2 pr BWA wheels @ $6.50/pr, set of Ninco wheels - about $5.00, Ortmann & EJs tires - $10 - axles $1.00 (I buy ground drill blanks in lots of 25 from an industrial supply house)
Looks like it's going to be about a $90-$100 slot car
EM
G
Guest
·I am really looking forward to see the finished car. Most interesting.
RR
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RR
Joined
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4,391 Posts
Hi EM,
I've just started to put one of my monoposto chassis together. I want to use trailing guides from Patto They have 3/16" posts. You're right about the steel being hard to drill and there's not much metal to spare. i'm just about to start cutting the chasssis into its component parts. I'm expecting to go through a lot of cut off discs.
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John
I've just started to put one of my monoposto chassis together. I want to use trailing guides from Patto They have 3/16" posts. You're right about the steel being hard to drill and there's not much metal to spare. i'm just about to start cutting the chasssis into its component parts. I'm expecting to go through a lot of cut off discs.
John
Joined
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3,417 Posts
I have been using diamond disks that I get from Micro Mark.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=82259
They are thinner, cut cleaner and cooler and seem to last a long time. You can also use them (carefully) side-on to clean up the ends of the webs left after cutting the chassis apart. An alternative approach to drilling the guide tongue for the Sakatsu guide would be to substitute a piece of brass of the appropriate width with the 3/16" hole drilled in it. I think it would be easier than drilling the existing guide and you could leave enough metal around the hole to stabilize the guide.
Good luck - and show us how it comes out!
EM
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=82259
They are thinner, cut cleaner and cooler and seem to last a long time. You can also use them (carefully) side-on to clean up the ends of the webs left after cutting the chassis apart. An alternative approach to drilling the guide tongue for the Sakatsu guide would be to substitute a piece of brass of the appropriate width with the 3/16" hole drilled in it. I think it would be easier than drilling the existing guide and you could leave enough metal around the hole to stabilize the guide.
Good luck - and show us how it comes out!
EM
Joined
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2,221 Posts
Speaking of Wire Wheels and large dia tires.Here's my latest wire insert.The knockoff comes molded in,so you won't lose it in a shunt.
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Joined
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2,142 Posts
Martini
Very nice work!
Why not bring it to the NLondon retro in May?
[oneofwos]
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Very nice work!
Why not bring it to the NLondon retro in May?
[oneofwos]
Joined
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3,417 Posts
QUOTE Why not bring it to the NLondon retro in May?
I was about to reply that a transatlantic trip to a slot car meet might have certain domestic repercussions when it occured to me that I will, indeed, be in the U.K. in May.
what is the date?
EM
I was about to reply that a transatlantic trip to a slot car meet might have certain domestic repercussions when it occured to me that I will, indeed, be in the U.K. in May.
what is the date?
EM
Joined
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2,142 Posts
Martini
Never really gave it a thought that you might be from across the water!
It's on the 29th May [Saturday], if you happen to be over then please come and visit you would be most wellcome.
[oneofwos]
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Never really gave it a thought that you might be from across the water!
It's on the 29th May [Saturday], if you happen to be over then please come and visit you would be most wellcome.
[oneofwos]
Joined
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3,417 Posts
QUOTE Why not bring it to the NLondon retro in May?
Won't work for my schedule - I'm there 11-14 and the schedule is not mine to control. But what is the meet about - assuming that the car survives the Las Vegas bash, I could send it across. Is it a race? (The last time I sent cars to race in England was in 1962 - the Whitehaven GP - two cars, both with Braverman bodies and Pittman motors running on SMEC rubber - a bit overpowered!)
EM
Won't work for my schedule - I'm there 11-14 and the schedule is not mine to control. But what is the meet about - assuming that the car survives the Las Vegas bash, I could send it across. Is it a race? (The last time I sent cars to race in England was in 1962 - the Whitehaven GP - two cars, both with Braverman bodies and Pittman motors running on SMEC rubber - a bit overpowered!)
EM
G
Guest
·Hi EM,
How did your cars perform in the 62 race?
RR
How did your cars perform in the 62 race?
RR
Joined
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3,417 Posts
QUOTE How did your cars perform in the 62 race?
Well - memory fades so one goes back to the sources - It was the 1961 race! - and only one of my two cars, a Birdcage Maserati, was a Braverman body - the other was a home built glass Vanwall (both bodies survive in reasonable condition)
Quoting from the October 1961 issue of Model Maker, p 562:
"Laurie (Cranshaw) then got down to adjustng all of his proxies, Braverman's proving not the least difficult. Like the other U.S.A. entries this had fixed steering, which whilst being extremely fast down the straight, were sliding back ends really wide in the corners."
This is not surprizing. I was using a motor about equivalent to a DC 62A driving SMEC wheels and tires!
Apparently a series of heats were run, with cars assigned by some mechanism to a lane (and not rotated) Somehow, four finalist were chosen from among the (I assume) winners of the heats to compete for the honors. Evidently it was assumed by the writer of the article that everyone was familiar with the procedure - it was not explained.
My Maserati finished second in its heat with 19 laps to the winners 20. The Vanwall finished less well at 15 laps to the winners 20 although the winner of that heat posted the fastest time and was the eventual overall winner.
A side note: At the time of the race, I was engaged to be married to a young lady who lived in Perkasie, PA. Sellersville, the then home of Pittman motors was the next town. I visited the Pittman factory and met Mr. Pittman, working at his stand-up desk. I showed him what I had done with some motors spirited out of the locomotives from my now supplanted HO guage system as well as my adaptation of the DC 703 to a side winder configuartion in Merit cars. Several weeks later I received a package containing two motors with integral brass axle carriers and pinion and contrate gears and having the brush gear mounted on the side of the motor (as in the DC62A/B). He asked for my evaluation. I believe that these were the first slot car motors that Pittman made. They were used to power my entrants. Like the bodies, they survive today.
EM
Well - memory fades so one goes back to the sources - It was the 1961 race! - and only one of my two cars, a Birdcage Maserati, was a Braverman body - the other was a home built glass Vanwall (both bodies survive in reasonable condition)
Quoting from the October 1961 issue of Model Maker, p 562:
"Laurie (Cranshaw) then got down to adjustng all of his proxies, Braverman's proving not the least difficult. Like the other U.S.A. entries this had fixed steering, which whilst being extremely fast down the straight, were sliding back ends really wide in the corners."
This is not surprizing. I was using a motor about equivalent to a DC 62A driving SMEC wheels and tires!
Apparently a series of heats were run, with cars assigned by some mechanism to a lane (and not rotated) Somehow, four finalist were chosen from among the (I assume) winners of the heats to compete for the honors. Evidently it was assumed by the writer of the article that everyone was familiar with the procedure - it was not explained.
My Maserati finished second in its heat with 19 laps to the winners 20. The Vanwall finished less well at 15 laps to the winners 20 although the winner of that heat posted the fastest time and was the eventual overall winner.
A side note: At the time of the race, I was engaged to be married to a young lady who lived in Perkasie, PA. Sellersville, the then home of Pittman motors was the next town. I visited the Pittman factory and met Mr. Pittman, working at his stand-up desk. I showed him what I had done with some motors spirited out of the locomotives from my now supplanted HO guage system as well as my adaptation of the DC 703 to a side winder configuartion in Merit cars. Several weeks later I received a package containing two motors with integral brass axle carriers and pinion and contrate gears and having the brush gear mounted on the side of the motor (as in the DC62A/B). He asked for my evaluation. I believe that these were the first slot car motors that Pittman made. They were used to power my entrants. Like the bodies, they survive today.
EM
Joined
·
2,221 Posts
QUOTE Several weeks later I received a package containing two motors with integral brass axle carriers and pinion and contrate gears and having the brush gear mounted on the side of the motor (as in the DC62A/B). He asked for my evaluation. I believe that these were the first slot car motors that Pittman made. They were used to power my entrants. Like the bodies, they survive today.
Well,now we know at least one guilty party we can Blame Eh!
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Well,now we know at least one guilty party we can Blame Eh!
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