SlotForum banner
21 - 40 of 68 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
After a fleeting Holiday along the coast of South of Australia and up into the Barossa Valley - some of the best vinyards in Australia, i'm back on board and all geared up to get this project humming along in the new year.

So far i've finished off 2 of the 4 frame modules and have the backing boards painted a base colour and in place. Another frame is now together, just needs legs and the backing board finished - this weekend. The final frame i'll plan to do over the following week.

The next part of the project i'm going to tackle is the routing. I have an offer to have the track done using a CNC router. My sisters boyfriend is an industrial designer with his own furniture design business and does some lecturing of an honours program at a University here in Melbourne. The University has a brand new CNC router and the offer is that he will take my design and produce a suitable CAD program file which the CNC router can then follow. Only cost for me will be the MDF. I'm more of a hands on and visual person and had been looking forward to getting in and doing it myself, but others are pushing i go the CNC option.

Does any one have any experience in using a CNC router? Is there anything i need to know before we get started?

In not sure what depth or width i'll need for the slot to be cut or for a recess to lay the braid into - mainly i run 1:32 scale but i could look at running 1:24 later. I know most people use a copper tape but i will be runing a magnetic braid on the track - i don't personally run cars with magnets but i'm sure there will be kids runing occasionally and it would be nice for them to have a go and not fly off all the time. I have a choice of 3/16 or 1/4 width for the braid.

Any advice in this area would be much appreciated.

Braith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
I´m following your topic with joy and have been checking in now and then to see if someone has answered you. I´m afraid I have never been involved in building a track with braids, so my ideas only come from theory and not from practical use. But let´s at least bump this topic so the more experienced track builders out there give you some hard core information!

I have the idea that the braid should simply be put down so it gives you a good enogh flat surface to race on. I have read a lot of slot car track building pages the last year, but when I saw your question, I realized that the topic was not described very well in any of them, perhaps because they are so experienced that they dont think it needs explanation. The focus in all those articles I have read seem to be to get it flat enough tho, and making sure that the braid does not interfere with the car in any way. Many times it seems that they go over the braid after it has been laid down, with some kind of heavy roller to press the braid down into the track and I have also read recommendations that one should do this once in a while to make sure the braid stays flat to the surface.

Magnetic braid seems interesting. I assume it´s actually not magnetic but attract magnets? Or did you actually find a braid with magnetic abilities on it´s own?

I am in the planning stage to build my first routed wooden track myself and even tho I prefer to drive magless myself, I thought that since I will put in a lot of effort, time and energy into building this track, I should at least give it the option to race with magnets when I wish it or if inexperienced drivers or kids come over for a racenight for instance. My own ideas went to using magnet paint. I still have not found the time to actually test it on a test track, but I have bought a few extra boards of MDF and plan to build a test track to test my theories and get som experience of the feeling of it.

The idea I have is that magnetic paint will give much less magnetic pull then driving on a plastic track like Scalextric (that I myself are used to drive at, at home), but it will also give magnet pull all over the track compared to the plastic track that has a gigantic pull where the slot is and nothing else. I think that is what gives that irritating behaviour that when driving with magnets you get a car that is glued down to the track till the point where it actually looses magnetic traction and then it does a major and seriously violent de-slot and flies all over the place. I think that magnetic paint will fix this and give a much smoother and interesting racing experience, it should give little enough magnetic pull for the cars, but also not too strong to stop the cars from actually slide around a bit in the corners. And since you have magnetic pull all over the track it should avoid those hard core de-slots.

I discussed this topic a bit with some people in a swedish slot car forum, and a nice man there that was doing some builds right now and had some magnetic paint got curious and did some tests on a test track he had built. Even tho it was only a test, I thought his experiences kind of showed that I was on the right track thinking of using magnetic paint and that it might be a fun idea. Here is a couple of videos of his tests with some cars. The corner away from the camera is treated with magnetic paint, while the corner closest to the camera is not.



Magnetic paint is INSANELY expensive here in sweden tho. The local paintstore charges like 30 euro´s for a small bucket that covers a couple of square meters. And since my track plan is now up to around 28-29 meters in lenght, it will require quite a lot of magnet paint. So my idea is to actually import some magnetic paint additive from the USA, where I found it to a fraction of the cost if I buy it in bulk. Even with killer shipping charges, it will save me a fortune if I go ahead with the magnetic paint.

Only downside with using magnetpaint I can think of is the price (but then again, braid isn´t cheap either) and the fact that the copper tape might blead out the electical signal into the magnet paint causing problems on both analog and digital tracks. But I´m sure that can be fixed with a couple of covers of paint on top of the magnet paint, especially around the slot where the copper tape is laid down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hi Mindat3z,

Thanks for your response - I need all the help i can get


Like you, i prefer to race with out magnets, but its nice to have an option for kids and others should they prefer it. Of particular appeal is, when i have kids, being able to simulate a 'race' (ie letting them win), whilst still being able to run a non magnet car myself for a little fun
Magnabraid (?) i think is the name of the product or at least what its called on the retailers website - I assume its just a braid which attracts magnets to it.

Magnetic paint is an interesting concept, just a few days ago i had been trawling through some of the later pages of the 'track and scenary' index and came across a thread for a track running magnetic paint. It seemed to prove your thoughts that 'grip' was available all over the track - I recall that the individual responsible was particularly pleased as they could use different strength magnets to achieve differential in performance of differing cars eg F1s vs road cars.

Last weekend I had a race meeting at a friends place - got to talking about some of the aspects I mentioned previously. I was told i need to make the slots 3mm wide - allows for both 1/32 and 1/24 scale cars. That then lead me to thinking about the width of the track overall and lane spacing - i want to go for track width around the 25 to 30cm - I am though wondering if i could get away wih 3 lanes in this space? Perhaps the track could be 2 lanes for 1/24 scale and 3 lanes for 1/32. Space is limited as the frame is only 1 metre deep on 2 sides and 80cm on the other. It was suggested that the lane spacing be 11cm which would make 3 lanes just squeeze on for 30cm track width - perhaps to tight?

Still yet to find out how deep to make the braid recess - Can always speak to the retailer but would like to know what has worked / not worked so well for others.

Cheers,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Finished the frame today!! The back boards are all in place coloured with sky blue, just a few tidy up bits to do.

Overall i'm very happy with how it fits in the room - a bit more space than i expected. Two people should be able to stand easily at the back of the room without knocking into each other, but its definitly going to be a two lane track. The only way i could possibly have a third person racing would be from the left end of the frame, where the doorway is.

Overall reach across the depth of the frame is also not too bad for myself. Just one tricky corner of the board which is a bit of a stretch.

Now it's back to toying with the final track design and then onto the routing




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well its been a while but i've finally got some progress to report!!

Since last update i've been accumulating bits a pieces that i believe are necessary for the routing stage to get underway:

Bosch 1200 Router
12mm MDF
3mm router bits from
special braid routing bits
Lufs DVD, lexan strip
Braid ordered

Since then i've started layout of the MDF and sketching the design to the MDF, this has helped me with the overall track plan and i'm happy to say that i like what i see with most of it. The only real change so far is i'll remove the chicance that was planned on the left hand side of the track. I think this will help the flow of the track and slow it up too much.

Anyway here' ssome happy snaps of the progress





From there i decided to jump staright onto the router. Forget the DVD, forget a test section, forget the router manual - i was way too excited to take the sensable approach.

here's how things are travelling so far, lots more routing to get through but i'm happy with how its turning out.









I did make a few mistakes on the other boards as i went so off to get some builders putty etc to fix those small errors up. Overall i'm happy with the way things are going - Yes i'm going to make a few mistakes but i view this as my test track and i'm planning to learn from the experience.

I do have one question which i'd be keen to have some feedback on - Painting the track - i'm wondering if i need an undercoat for the MDF before painting. The paint i'll be using will be acrilic and i've picked up some plain white for $1 a can from Nippon paints. I'll use this for my track lines etc. I've also got a bright blue for the ripple strips and some masking tape ready to go. Any advice on this would be great.

Cheers,
 

·
Mr. Olufsen
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
Looks like a very good start. Keep it up and keep us all posted.

/Christian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
A few weeks have passed since i last posted an update.

I've been busy doing a few bits and pieces around the house (building garden beds and starting a small deck landing outside the laundry door) and going to the Australian Grand Prix last Saturday to watch the return of Kimi Raikkonen for Lotus Renault. Fair to say that progress on the Track has been some what limited in that time - i've also decided it needs a working title, but what i'm not sure yet.

I did manage to finish the routing for the slot on all the boards and have them now just sitting on the frame in the room. At last i can see it coming together and i'm elated with how it looks so far!!! I just really hope that i'll be able to finish it off nicely and keep a high standard all throughout the build.

Next up is going to be going back to rout the recess for the braid. Unfortunately im going to be delayed slightly with that as Armchair racer in Sydney identified that the Magna braid which I had just ordered was not magnetic and were forced to return it to the manufacturer in the US. Fingers crossed that it will be here in the next week or two.

Anyway heres a couple of overall pics and then some closer photo's of the various sections. Hope you like.











 

·
Prof I T
Joined
·
11,156 Posts
hi
looking good. When it comes to painting i just went straight on with the top coat and used a mini roller.

Using the roller instead of a brush lets you get a better finish and there is no need to worry about filling the slot with paint.

The magnetic paint looks very interesting but might get tricky for those ussing coppertape that has a conductive backing..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Hi
Looks wery good, but Iam lite bit concerned by the U form, If you are alone, no problem, but two around and willing to see the cars hole the way can bee a little problem!
I am glad to see my Magnatesting in yor tread ;-)
Found it today, I have no problem vith the currence from tape, the wery good thing with magnapaint is that yoy can get it wider (more area!
As you can see I ar using Aluminiumtape (take it from 50mm and run it trhrot documentdestroyer!
I also usuly paint to slot first whit a lite bit lighter color or simular to the track.
So keep on the good work says Lasp ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thank you all for the kind words and encouragement


I should clear up that magnetic paint was a suggestion, a very welcome one. Instead i decided to use a type of braid which works with the cars magnets instead. This is due to the clubs I race in all being non magnet, but its nice to have an option in case others wanted to run with magnets on occasion, the braid seemed most practical as I don't see this being too often.

Having ordered the braid I'm just now waiting on its arrival before I can rout a recess on either side of the slot. This will keep the braid level with the track.

Paulporsche - very good idea regarding just using magnetic paint in the corners though, It would certainly help lower the cost!!
 

·
Greg Gaub
Joined
·
14,957 Posts
I like magnabraid better than magnetic paint. I'm sure it can be done, but I've yet to run a car on a track with magnetic paint that didn't end up leaving shavings on the bottom of the car at the magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Yes, thats will be some stuff coming to the magnet on the car, but if you seal the magnet paint whit some another paint, or a bit of woodenglue thinned with water it should bee good.
Just se the videos where I paint just some corners and specialy in the outercurve.
But I still is a driver that drive whithout magnets ;-) As we all do in the Helsingborg Club Area
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
QUOTE (Lasp @ 25 Mar 2012, 13:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yes, thats will be some stuff coming to the magnet on the car, but if you seal the magnet paint whit some another paint, or a bit of woodenglue thinned with water it should bee good.
Just se the videos where I paint just some corners and specialy in the outercurve.
But I still is a driver that drive whithout magnets ;-) As we all do in the Helsingborg Club Area

I did the same thing on my routed wood track and I have not had problems with metal shavings sticking to magnets.
 

·
Greg Gaub
Joined
·
14,957 Posts
That's what someone I know SAID he did, but I still got shavings on my car. Maybe he forgot the top coat, or it was very thin, or he did it before the magnetic paint was fully cured and some mixed in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 26 Mar 2012, 21:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That's what someone I know SAID he did, but I still got shavings on my car. Maybe he forgot the top coat, or it was very thin, or he did it before the magnetic paint was fully cured and some mixed in.

Greg, I don't think you can completly eliminate the shavings, I get a small amount now and then on cars with lower magnets.

I think the real thing to consider is that magnetic paint does not work as well as magna braid when it comes to holding the car in place. IMO magnetic paint is somewhere between going magless and running full mags on magna braid. Since the magnetic paint is spread out in a larger area than the braid it tends to give grip longer but it is now where near as strong as the pull you get with magna braid. On my routed track a car with a magnet running on the magnetic paint will gain .2 to .4 over a magless car on a track where the lap times run between 5.5 and 6.0 I'm sure magna braid would show more improvement than this in lap times.
 

·
Greg Gaub
Joined
·
14,957 Posts
Yes, I've driven on a track with exceptional grip AND magnabraid. Magless cars run great on it, but slap a magnet in there and it's a big difference. Not quite the pull of plastic track with steel rails, but very close. If magnabraid weren't considerably more expensive, more people would probably go with it, just to have that option, especially for the kids. Then again, I wonder if the trouble and cost of applying magnetic paint is worth the difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Hi All,

I can't believe that its almost been two months since the last update. You'll be pleased to know that i've been doing a bunch of work and am quite happy with my progress todate.

If i haven't mentioned it i'm targeting June 16 (le-mans weekend) as the date for having the track wired and able to run the first few laps, probably wishful thinking.

Anyway onto the progress pics and commentary:

With the braid seeming to take forever to arrive I lost patience with waiting and contacted slot car corner in Canada - it was suggested that i could start with a depth of about 1mm for the braid recess and go deeper later if needed. In hind sight 1mm is probably a touch deep - i'd suggest 0.8 of a mm if i did it again.



After the recess was routed i began attaching all the sections and screwed them together using a 90mm by 19mm thick pine wood below the track. Most of this is screwed in from above then filled over and sanded back. As the track is in 4 distinct sections so it can be moved later i screwed from below at the joins between the sections.



I painted the braid recesses with an under coat and then started gather paint surface samples. In reseaching track colour i had become particularly attracted to older historic race tracks and particularly wanted to have some sections of the layout which are older public roads and other which is modern race track a variety of colours was needed. I. I hope this would help capture the essence of a great race track. Somewhere around here the braid turned up.



At the same time i was gathering pictures of various race tracks which i could use for inspiration at certain points on the build. This helps keep me focused on what i am trying to achieve. You may also notice that I recut one fo the curves in this picture (at the back). I was not happy with the original routing and after some advice from slot car corner figured out some of my issues (wood was burning in the slot as i was going too slowly) and decided I also wanted a test piece of track for painting later on.



I drilled some 7mm wide holes in the braid recess where the 4 sections meet so that I can later braid in sections.



The entire track was then under coated in preparation for painting. I also ordered a wiring kit and bought a power supply.



Most recently i have just completed the first stage of painting my test piece of track. I have chosen four various shades of grey (light and dark) to help achieve the effect that I am after. I have also done half with the slots in the same colour as the track and half with painted lanes to help me decide what to do on the track.







Here it is braided and with a couple of cars. I'm still trying to decide between the painted lane recess and track coloured recess. As my girl friend says the natural look makes it feel more real but the painted look makes it look more impressive. I think i might need a week of looking at it to help me decide.





So that's where I am up to so far - next weekend i'll commence painting the track, by which time i hope to know what i'll do with the slot recess.

Hope you enjoy.
 
21 - 40 of 68 Posts
Top