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This is a DIY modification. Difficulty level 3/10, this is only really a little bit of easy soldering…

This thread is how to make a digital 4 lane start for the C7042 using parts salvaged from a C7030 (the old 6 car powerbase).

gallery_4291_3874_112986.jpg


You need:

1x C7042 updated to the latest v1.009 firmware

1x C7030 (sensors working, but can be blown up)

1x JST2.5 (or 2.0) plug, flying lead and socket

1x power connector and lead for C7030

2mm heatshrink or insulating tape

Scalpel, screwdriver, soldering iron, solder, solder sucker or wicking braid, hot glue, (hot air gun for heatshrink)

Apart from a C7030 you also need the power lead that plugs into it (just one)

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You should trial fit the parts - do a dry run

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Dry run showed this lug has to be removed

gallery_4291_3874_47529.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First prepare the C7030:

Unscrew the 6 screws holding the track in place

Unsolder the two power wires

Cut the ID sensor wires as shown - leave the sensor board fixed to the track

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Pull the blade sensor board out of the track and remove the track

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Cut the JST lead to suit the installation - suggest you dry run this to get the length right

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Bare the ends of the four wires from the sensor board, and the 4 wires on the JST lead.

Tin each wire (apply some solder to the wire)

If using heatshrink cut 4 pieces and slip up each wire.

Check which wire goes to which, I just keep the same left to right order as the board and the connector come in

Solder wires

Slide heatshrink over each joint and use hot air gun to shrink, or wrap each wire with insulating tape

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Solder the power connector wires to rails. Again dry run this and check polarity before starting - we need right rail to join right rail when finished

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Use some hot glue to secure the wires

That is now done!
 

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Now prepare the C7042:

Remove the 6 screws holding the track to the C7042 base

gallery_4291_3874_20416.jpg


Cut lug as shown and make sure it has all been removed - save plastic for later operation

gallery_4291_3874_175685.jpg


Using scalpel carefully trim the plastic that retains the ID sensor board

gallery_4291_3874_72642.jpg


Salvage a power connector from the C7030 motherboard using the solder sucker or wicking braid to remove the solder and get it off the board.

Cut two bits of the wires that went to the rails from the C7030 and use to solder the connector to two rails of the C7042 as shown. Note positioning is important here as we have to miss the incoming tabs from connecting track

Hot glue into place

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Salvage the 4 sensor wires from the C7030 blade sensor

Strip ends and tin

Solder to JST socket

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Use heatshrink or electrical tape to insulate

Temporarily remove C7042 blade sensor board

Melt a couple of paths on the track ribs

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Solder other end of wires to C7042 ID sensor board

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Reposition ID sensor board, melt a little of the lug you removed earlier to the top of the exposed plastic coming through the board to secure in place

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Hot glue connector as shown and route wires - retain with a little hot glue

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Refit C7042 blade sensor board

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Screw track back onto base

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Complete! Now test. Connect extension board to C7042. Make sure your connections are good.

gallery_4291_3874_112986.jpg
 

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ParrotGod
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fantastic how-to! thanks a lot.

In my case I have a non functioning APB instead of a C7030: the wiring of the sensor board should be quite straight-forward right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Grunz

For you it would be less of a worry about colour coding, so easier....

Note that the positioning of the power connector and the JST were done to miss the latching bits of the next track that go directly into that area. Ideally I would have put the JST on the side next to the ID board, but then the power connector cannot easily fit on the other side because of the lugs..
 

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Yes and no I would guess.

Yes, you could use analogue mode but only on the first two lanes of the main powerbase as usual.

No, you can't use analogue on the extended piece because it's sharing the power from the first two rails and only has the digital IR sensors for lap counting - needing chipped cars to count laps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Correct. This is good for 4 lanes in digital but it will still function in analog mode for the original 2 lanes. And before anyone asks, no you can't have a mix of analog and digital
 

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ParrotGod
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The title of the post says it all....
 

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I made this 4 lane start/finish with the sensors from a c7042, where the aux port was damaged. It works flawlessly.

I did not use the jst sockets, just soldered it all together.

Thank you RikoRocket !
 

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Grunz, this it really easy ! - I could do it
banana.gif
just take your time, make a plan and double check, and execute. I needed different wiring than RikoRocket showed us.

If you look in my gallery http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&album=4458%C2 I have taken out one of the c7042's and replaced with this new start/finish line.

I have made wiring so I am still able to connect another c7042, in order to add more power for when racing oXigen on 4 lanes with more than 6 cars.

We have raced the 4-lane layout with SSD and oXigen a couple of times, and we agree that 4 lane racing is a lot of fun, even if we are not that many drivers. On my layout we are not able to race analog, due to the wiring I have made, but we can race up to 4 cars, each in one lane, round robin, like the analog guys does it. We just need to have chips in the cars. So the start/finish opens up for different race types also.

one of the other guys, who also have room for a large layout, have just finished a 4 lane start/finish also. he just needs to add some booster cables before we will start testing.
 

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ParrotGod
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Nice one. Show us some pics when the other guy's track is up. really curious about what people do 4 lane design.
 

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I've tried to do this modification, but it only partly works; cars run fine in all four lanes, lane changers work across

the four lanes etc, but laps are only registrered in lane 1/left lane of the original C7042, no laps counted in the three other lanes. Any suggestions to where to start the troubleshooting?

Petter
 

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Not read the whole thread for a long while but I assume this mod only works correctly for firmware version 1.009. So first I would check firmware.

c

Edit: added extra zero :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks DRC, yes it needs V1.009 firmware, I've corrected that in the guide.

However Petter's APB should still work in lane 2 which it is not. I suspect that the wiring is crossed somewhere. Petter if you unplug the extra straight does lane 2 now count?
 

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ParrotGod
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I have done this mod myself although using it in a different way.

Petter would be good to see some pics of how the boards are connected.
 
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