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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I am new to the Scalextrics world and I have just built a new digital track that had a sport digital powerbase installed and it worked great. Then.... I upgraded to the C7042 Powerbase and I can't get it to work. As soon as I install the unit into the track. I get a clicking noise and the LCD display says Build 00.085 and then goes into safe mode.

I do not believe it to be the track or the PSU as a friend brought his unit around and it all worked straight away.

Any suggestions please.

Cheers

Dobrino
 

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Hi Dobrino,

Welcome to theForum where you will find lots of help and some great ideas.

If you have any edit: should read Corner lane Changers not "racing crossovers" in your circuit then you will need to perform a vasectomy on them!
View attachment 9410
courtesy of Rikorocket

Also make sure that you do not have any small parts of braid from the cars or any metal objects shorting out the rails. It may well help to give you track a jolly seeing to with a hoover!

Regards - Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Greg

Thanks for the quick reply. But before I do the surgery on the track, Why would the same C7042 unit work on the track without having to make any changes?

Thanks
Steve
 

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Update: .... It's not the racing Crossovers that are the problem, it's the Corner Lane Changers. The copper tracks connect both tracks together when you change lane.

The other thing to try is to just power up the C7042 on it's own without any tracks connected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Simon

The unit actually works when I take out the Digital corner cross overs out. Will the new firmware actually resolve this problem?

And can you buy this cable from Maplin?

NB.. My main concern is that the same unit with the same level of firmware worked on the track without having to make cuts to track or upgrade firmware levels.


Cheers
Steve
 

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Greg Gaub
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Steve,

I've seen that as well. I've seen some C7042 units work just fine, no safe mode, when used in a track with stock (uncut) CLCs. I've also seen them only go into safe mode when using analog mode, and I've seen them go into safe mode right off the bat just like yours. All the same original firmware, too. I have no idea why some would behave differently than others. They should all act the same. The fact that yours works fine with the CLCs removed implies that you have one that gets upset about those. Follow the photo that GregK posted about how to cut the jumpers. It's a harmless modification. The track will work fine in both analog and digital modes after those two spots have been cut. Just make sure you cut only the two spots shown in the photo, and no others, and only those exact connections. If you cut the wrong connections, then you might find yourself soldering wires to fix it. Once done, the track will still work fine, and your base will probably not go into Safe mode like that any more.
 

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My wife will get upset if she sees this picture of her sewing scissors being abused again!


There are issues with the CLCs, for example if they get bent they can short out at the pivot. If the exit flipper is the early moving type then jam it centrally or again you can get unwanted shorts.

The cables are specialist, they contain electronics to change the signals to stuff PCs will recognise. I make them as does RichG. The easiest way to order one is on Andy Wallace's SSDC website
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi All

I have wielded the scissors and hey presto it now works. BUT .... new problems with the track and having some dead spots, where the car just stops.

Any more help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dobrino
 

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Greg Gaub
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How big are the dead spots? Does the car move if you nudge it, or press down on the nose, or is a whole section of track (or more ) completely dead?
Large dead sections will happen if you cut the wrong leads under the CLCs. Ask me how I know.

If it's just little spots that can be nudged away from, then it's probably more about the braids touching properly. Usually pulling them in toward the guide, and bending them away from the car slightly will do the trick. INOX MX3 on the braid and/or rails also helps a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Greg

It was just small spots. The circuit cutting operation went to plan, I knew my HNC in electrical electronic engineering would come in handy 25 years later
.

I have isolated it to a piece of track not mated properly.

What is the INOX MX3 ?

Thanks for all your help too. One happy big kid and a teenage boy waiting to have a go..

Cheers

Steve
 

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Inox is a witches potion conjured up by sacrificing sheep... LD discounts stock it. Worth every penny as it makes your cars respond better.
 

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QUOTE The easiest way to order one is on Andy Wallace's SSDC website
While you are there, get hold of the SSDC software; it has a fully functional evaluation period of 30 days. You may like to know that Andrew has just started to release his wireless throttle adaptors that work in conjunction with SSDC. Exciting times.
 
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