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Kitbasher
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That looks home brewed to me...

I think someone has added VIP/MRRC/Pttman type brushgear to a can motor...

I tried it once or twice back in the day, it worked well on a rewound, short stack 13UO
 

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Right Pete, a home-brew conversion of some kind of can (Mabuchi style) motor with Pittman style brushes. Simco, Ram and a few other companies did these endbells, mainly because in the early Mabuchi motors the brushes were often a weak point (ie, they tended to melt the plastic endbell!). So that would tend to place it at 67 at the latest - brush hardware get better after that, and the conversion would be unlikely.

I don't think that's a standard mabuchi 16D can because the shape looks a bit like one of the Japanese made copies sold in Britain...

Does it power up?

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks folks....the motor is in the elan which arrived today...was rather surprised when I saw the motor!....probably a bonus?....I have not tried the motor with power yet...are there any precautions needed?...ken
 

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Nothing special, but I wouldn't start it on 12 volts or higher right away! If you've got a variable power supply or a 6V battery try that first: but make sure everything spins freely and put a drop of oil on the bushing at either end...

Here's a photo of the "Ram-Boochie" kit - probably the first kit for a conversion of this type (around 65-66), but for the larger 36D size Mabuchi motors, and using a Ram 7-pole armature like in their big drag motors.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Don, but while you were typing your nice reply I was in the loft to find my smoothflow transformer...with my wife holding the wires we connected up and much to my surprise the old motor ran well with no problems!!!bet it has not run for decades...ken
 

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Graham Windle
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The motor can is a Rikoflash mk1; they had pretty poor brush gear but had a nearly unmeltable bakelite type end bell. I can't say for sure if the end bell is the original one modified, if it has a silver bearing sort of crimped on then it is -- but I suspect it will be an ft 16 d type with mrrc brushes grafted on. The original Rikoflash drove out of the can end and had either green or red wire so I think the arm is probably from some other source too. I made lots like this in the 60s as it was quite commonplace in the clubs then.
 

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Thanks to Graham for identifying this motor - and by chance this morning I was looking at an old Model Cars magazine, and just happened to pick the one where the motor is introduced! It was the January 67 issue, probably prepared about 2 months earlier, perhaps 3, but products were often announced before they were ready too!





Now, can somebody explain to me what is "forced draught ventilation" on a slot car motor? Those funny looking holes in the end?

Don
 

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Graham Windle
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dunno don but it scores a 10 on the buls**tometer in my book , seriously they probablly tried to convince thr motor buying public that the motor had some special cooling system but as you point out it has a few extra holes
 

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The bigger can in the ad looks like the 36d Cox nascar one but i've not seen that shape in a 16d - did anyone else use it ? Is it Cox sourced or from the same manufacturer that did for Cox ?
Surprised to see just how expensive those were...
I remember seeing ads for the Riko stuff as a youngster in the UK; Imagine my disappointment when I finally made it to the stockist in Bournemouth only to find it all gone and then the horror of being shown my first womp


Simon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well identified guys....now if I posted a pic of the external brush gear you could have a stab at the origin of that!?ken..also i just spotted the first clear shell in the above ad.....1/32 lotus elan coupe...could this be one and the same fitted to my car?
 

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Good chance of that Ken!

I don't think this was the same manufacturer as the one who made the Cox Nascar, but except for a few Japanese manufacturers, some of the motor makers from Japan and Hong Kong are still a bit vague... Maybe if Philippe is around, he might hasard a guess!

The brush gear looks very much hand-made, with that big nut on there. What's hard to see if it's based on a Simco or similar commercial item, for just carved out of the original endbell...

Don
 

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QUOTE (dgersh @ 28 Oct 2011, 18:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Now, can somebody explain to me what is "forced draught ventilation" on a slot car motor? Those funny looking holes in the end?

Don
Only the guy who wrote Kohnstam's ad can tell us that for sure. It could be

Spin up just about any slot car motor with a hole in the top or bottom and you'll feel a bit of a draft coming out of the hole.
Put some holes elsewhere in the can and a lot more airflow can be felt from top and bottom. Modern quicker motors all have ventilation holes which help with the air flow, generally a lot more effective than the Rikoflash.
This "forced draught ventilation" helps to keep the arm cool.

If the holes are in the end of the can like the Rikoflash, they should give a bit of extra airflow providing nothing is blocking them.
The Rikoflash is intended to be mounted with the can end housing through the motor mounting plate with a clip to retain the motor. Mounting it in the standard way, the motor plate blocks up the holes so they serve no useful purpose.
 

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Senior Slot Car Mechanic
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Definitely looks like the original endbell chopped up, you can see the area the original hexagon brush tubes sat in.
 

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Graham Windle
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Your right Al, Ive had a look at the second lot of pics and you can also see the endbell bearing definatly the original modified .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I agree, and am unsure of why the pinon is on the endbell side and not the can?...would the armature be altered as well?..ken
 

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Could have used a Rikochet arm, which was endbell drive, as its noticeable that there isn't any armature shaft sticking out of the can bearing. A picture of the arm might provide a bit more info.
Also looks like a MRRC brush spring and brush plate.

Mike
 
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