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17083 Views 91 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  Spurman

I would like some opinions as to which older 16D motors had the most get up and go !
Sure, we have all come across motors that; for some odd reason or another; just flew
and were freaks. In the pics, I have shown some real fliers, and possibly the Chong is
unchallenged , but the Lenz and French are not too far behind, and the Dynamic Green Hornet
will keep up for a few laps, then slowly diminishes as it heats up. Any input, comments and
experience with these motors, and any other hot motor of the era, would be greatly appreciated!

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QUOTE (Spurman @ 9 Feb 2012, 06:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for that Bill . Any particular type of solder I should use , in case of melt down ? Zig
Any solder will do.
When soldering it in, only the parts of teh can near the bearing reach soldering temperature.
In practical use other things will fail due to overheating before the bearing gets anywhere near soldering temperature.
QUOTE (merkit the grof @ 11 Feb 2012, 14:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I read somewhere that you cannot put a can arm in an open frame where the brushes are at 90 degrees to the magnet (different timing).
Sounds about right. A motor with the comm timing 90 degrees out won't run properly - quite likely it won't run at all.
It could be made to work if the comm was also rotated through 90 degrees.

Another thing to check out is the shaft size - although most 16d size can motors had 2mm or 5/64 inch shafts (the two are almost identical), quite a lot of open frame motors had different size shafts.

QUOTE (32deuce @ 11 Feb 2012, 16:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>My question is would there be enough magnetic force?
Probably yes for the early can winds. Once improved ceramic can magnets became available, and can winds got hotter, the magnetic field in open frame motors wouldn't be enough.

Open frame motors usually needed remagnetizing if the arm was removed and replaced. The ceramic magnets in cans are very much more tolerant of arm changes.
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