CANS WITH ATTITUDE - AND STING

Hmm, with all these great motors, where do I start?

Mike, those are some fabulous examples, and rather rare! I've never seen a Mura Hitachi either and had no idea they had done one! Certus was another midwestern product, like Dyna-Rewind, and was becoming popular in the area about the time I stopped racing, in late 68. Still don't have one of those, but I would imagine their performance is similar to the Dyna-Champion class - have you run any of these? Plus, an Orange Picker in the box (only $10.95? that must have been after the price cut revolution, when racers rebelled against $25 motors... and the manufacturers got the message!). The 503 ain't easy to find either...

Zig, I've run a couple SS91s and they're very fast, still, with lots of torque - but no brakes! Have to gear them at least 5:1 to get any brakes at all. Not sure if this is normal, or because of 40 year old magnets... Seems there are still a lot around, so maybe adults were treating themselves to a 15 dollar motor at the time - I certainly couldn't on a 14 year old's budget!

As you figured, the red Strombecker Hemi is supposedly higher performance than the blue TC32, but the latter has pretty decent speed too, and that's the one they put in their competition kits. I think the set cars had a slightly milder version of the blue endbell motor. But the Hemi was also available in a couple versions: standard, adjustable timing and wind yourself kit. I have a standard one in my current proxy car...

Just as an anecdote, a couple of the pro racers in the early SoCal series used stock Hemi motors when their rewinds began popping circuit breakers on some of the tracks - so I guess at the time it was considered a decent motor.

Ray, not sure about putting a can arm in one of the open frame motors - it was usually the other way around, mainly with the DC65X (hi Rick) arm... or a Ram arm in the 36D. You could always try it, or just rewind the arm in the Scuttler (or use the 6V Avenger...).

All for now.
Don

QUOTE I read somewhere that you cannot put a can arm in an open frame where the brushes are at 90 degrees to the magnet (different timing).
You would need to use a Pittman 196 or an Atlas.

Joel

My question is would there be enough magnetic force? Guess it can't hurt to try. Go for it Ray!

Don, being the "image junkie" that I am these are merely images I've collected from the forums & ebay for my own warped sense of documentation that could hopefully be used someday after I'm gone as a history book for slot cars. (what an undertaking that would be) I do have a couple of those blue champion motors but haven't been able to test any yet. Seems I have them from dead stock to epoxied & balanced and I have no idea if a given motor came that way or not. Once I really take a look I'm sure it will be obvious if they've been opened up. It's hard to measure performance though because they are so old. Any one of them could go up in smoke just because of age and not so much because of the wind or lack of a quality endbell.

Zig, I remember buying those blue endbell stroms as a "Hemi" too as well as the red ones. The blue ones seem to be more rare and I have no idea about the performance comparison. The TC32 is a totally different animal. The can is more squared off and the endbell is different. It's a different motor. Weren't those mostly installed in the later home set cars?

Z

QUOTE (merkit the grof @ 11 Feb 2012, 14:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I read somewhere that you cannot put a can arm in an open frame where the brushes are at 90 degrees to the magnet (different timing).
Sounds about right. A motor with the comm timing 90 degrees out won't run properly - quite likely it won't run at all.
It could be made to work if the comm was also rotated through 90 degrees.

Another thing to check out is the shaft size - although most 16d size can motors had 2mm or 5/64 inch shafts (the two are almost identical), quite a lot of open frame motors had different size shafts.

QUOTE (32deuce @ 11 Feb 2012, 16:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>My question is would there be enough magnetic force?
Probably yes for the early can winds. Once improved ceramic can magnets became available, and can winds got hotter, the magnetic field in open frame motors wouldn't be enough.

Open frame motors usually needed remagnetizing if the arm was removed and replaced. The ceramic magnets in cans are very much more tolerant of arm changes.

Here are few more high performace 16Ds

Blue Certus



European Orange Picker


My favorite vintage 16D, Champion Black Power motor, (only available from Champion of Europe I think) quick, good brakes and reliable.


Dyna rewind


Pink Mura


Probably home made rewind. (bought from young Ralph Parker)


Another unknown motor, look quite professional, crackle finish on the can and kakhi coloured epoxy.
Anybody out there knows who made it?


This is would be high performance if it could stop smoking everytime I run it.


Joel

Now Then,

Joel, I just love that "skewed stack", seen that on industrial motors but never a slot motor before !!.

I've got a Champion Black in a "jaildoor" F1 chassis, I'll bring it to EB so you can see it !!.

I'd post a piccie, but can't remeber how, its an age thing.

I also remember having a Champion motor kit, a 501 I think. All the parts, but you had to wind the arm !!.

I also had a Lenz 25g in a Champion 1/24th chromed AW chassis, cut down to fit a 1/32 Daytona.

Came approx 5th (?) and won concours at Modeller's Den Area round in 1973.

VBR Chris A.

Still haven't found my Cukras flower power motor (stolen by a stoned hippie?), but here are a few more from the endless drawers...

First, in situ in a very funky chassis, a Chong from the Pacific Northwest (Bruce Chong, a racer in Portland, Oregon, who seems to have come out with his own line of motors). Got a series of four of these, and the motors, all different, are excellent. Some with silver wire and strong magnets, others seemingly almost stock - all very smooth!









Here's a Cobra "Custom Rewind", again based on the Russkit 23 like a lot of other motors in this thread. Silver wire of course... East Coast motors, and the company sponsored the "Gold Dust" twins, Howie Ursaner and Sandy Gross...



Here's a home-brewed version of the Russkit 23. Not sure what's up with the wire: either the color has changed, or the winder mixed in blue wire or thread with the regular red stuff... Pretty typical of what was going on at the time - before Arco magnets and US made cans.



One of the motors that started this thread, the Testor Turbo Mk?? (still haven't checked....).




And a couple Muras, Magnum 88 variety (that's the magnets, which also gave their name to the motor). The first one has "26" scratched on the can, and that looks to be the size of the wire.









And to finish up, a couple Champions. Actually, I'm not sure about the first, but it's in a Champion anglewinder chassis. Later model Mabuchi can, very professional arm with glassy type epoxy, post protectors... But it has regular drill hole balancing, maybe a bit early for a Champion.



Then a classic Champion 517, the first US made can I believe... 28 wire, and Champion's traditional slash balancing.





A home-brew Champion rewind, type 507. Probably a rewind kit, since it uses the blue can and has Champion factory balancing, with A, B, C on the poles and slash balancing.