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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

Ok so who can tell me the best type of glue (in the UK) to fix breakages on cars?

For example my 3x NSR Audi R8's all have snapped rear spoilers.

I get the plastic wheel inserts keep popping out during races.

Response will be greatly appreciated. I've tried superglue flexi, but not the answer.

Thanks
 

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Lee Beswick
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Hi Benj,

I use something called 'Powerbond 806' which I pick up from toy fairs and the like. It's a chemical glue type, rather than 'melt it together' type glue like Superglue. Powerbond doesn't mark, discolour or whitten plastic...so makes it good for most slot car fixing jobs.

Powerbond also make an adhesive curer as well...which is fantastic for those jobs where you need the glue to set instantly


Powerbond site

Site doesn't seem to show all the products...they do a lot more!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (lee.bes @ 11 Feb 2012, 20:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Benj,

I use something called 'Powerbond 806' which I pick up from toy fairs and the like. It's a chemical glue type, rather than 'melt it together' type glue like Superglue. Powerbond doesn't mark, discolour or whitten plastic...so makes it good for most slot car fixing jobs.

Powerbond also make an adhesive curer as well...which is fantastic for those jobs where you need the glue to set instantly


Powerbond site

Site doesn't seem to show all the products...they do a lot more!

Thanks Lee, I will take a look.
 

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QUOTE (lee.bes @ 11 Feb 2012, 20:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Benj,

I use something called 'Powerbond 806' which I pick up from toy fairs and the like. It's a chemical glue type, rather than 'melt it together' type glue like Superglue. Powerbond doesn't mark, discolour or whitten plastic...so makes it good for most slot car fixing jobs.

Powerbond also make an adhesive curer as well...which is fantastic for those jobs where you need the glue to set instantly


Powerbond site

Site doesn't seem to show all the products...they do a lot more!

What sort of shelf life do you get from Powerbond once it's opened? I generally don't like large sizes of CA as they tend to block and I end up throwing most away but the properties of this Powerbond look really interesting.
 

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Lee Beswick
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Hi Highbarn,

Ah well the the beuty of Powerbond is that the cap has a needle inside to keep the nozzle all clean and free from blockages. I've never had a bootle block yet, or go off because I always keep it in the fridge and only take it out when I need to use it. I've tried loads of different 'superglues' and am yet to find anything better than this for what it can do

Well known fact - keep your glue in the fridge and it will double the shelf life of any super glue type product!


I'm starting to sound like a powerbond salesmans here!!! I can confirm I have no affiliation with the product and do not recieve any commission!!!
 

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i use a 2 part polyester resin glue i bought of ebay, the only drawback is its not instant, takes3 mins to grab and 9 mins to cure, high strength wonderfull for repairing bodies and for adding plasticard-polystyrene to original bodies. it cost about £2.50 all in. its all in chinese on the small tubes. but if any ones interested, i,ll look it up and post for you. amost forgot to ask!does it [806] fog up the clear windows, with its fumes. john.
 

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Lee Beswick
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Hi John,

Powerbond 806 does not 'fog up' clear windows, unless you use the curer to speed up the drying time. If you just use the glue and leave it to dry naturally then there is no fogging. Again, I think this is because it's a chemical bond type, so there's no melting of the material involved....not very scientific, but that's how I understand it!
 

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To attach wheel inserts,I use PVA. This will hold the insert firmly but it won't be impossible to remove should you wish.
TED...
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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I have recently taken to using Formula 500 canopy glue for repairs where curing time is not an issue. It's a stronger than average PVA glue that is used for attaching clear canopies on RC planes. Strong, clear, works a treat if 24 hours curing time is a possibility.

The jury is still out on what to use for long term, rapid repairs. I have just picked up some "Rapid Fix" (2 part rapid set 'super' glue). Dashed expensive stuff, but the blurb of what it can supposedly do is impressive. The concern is that you need to be certain that you want the bond permanent.

Embs
 

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'Blue Tack' that will hold your wheel inserts no problem, it wont stain, it's easy to disengage and you can re-use it again and again.

Oh! And it's not expensive.

Regards
Billy
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Never glue in a rear wing. It will only snap off again. Just fit it inside with blutack and then when you next crash it wil displace or pop out rather than snapping off.
 

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If I don't want it to be permanent I use seismic wax which grips more than blu tack but still allows the bits to pop out (!) when I crash...
 

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standard cheap superglue isn,t permanent if you dont want it to be. just pop the part in very hot water and it destroys the bond without harming the pieces. john
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
John
Thanks for letting me know about the hot water and superglue, got a few things to use this idea on!

On another note, what about glue for tyres? I've been told woman's nails glue?
 

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benj, a clear nail varish is ok, it gives you a few seconds to seat the tyre properly. or you could use a special thick slow cure superglue with a setting time of 15-20seconds. the boiling water thing requires several goes, you have to take the wheels out and keep roling the edges of the tyres to beak the bond. when you glue on new tyres only run the bead round the outside edges, it makes it a lot easier to remove john.
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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Benj, if you're talking about the glue for false nails, I believe it is just a cyno superglue. Don't know for sure because I've not used it. But it takes acetone to dissolve it.

Embs
 

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Anthony Bartlett
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One other thing that works for me - if you have 'split' a body, on the back (non-visible side) spread some super glue, then sprinkle bicarbonate of soda onto the glue, then add a little more glue and more bicarb - and voila - you have a joint that is nearly invisible and is stronger than the plastic it is on....

For tyres I use a contact style glue - sticks well and has some flexibility and does not 'snap' ....
 

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dont use acetone on plastic wheels to get yor tyres off, not unless your a chemist with a stop watch.after?secs the paint comes off, then the plastic gets tacky and starts to dissolve, it does take a minute or so, but its the best method with alloys/john
 
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