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Car Decoder issues

3816 Views 40 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Profoxcg
Hi Guys,
Just post any car decoder questions or issues here.

Most basic question: Do I need ferrite man? If so where? What happens if I still have issues.

Different motors and tracks have different characteristics. So with some tracks and motors you need various protection.
The most basic is you do need a ferrite asnd capacitor combination on the motor end.

I havent really noticed a lot of benefit from putting a ferritre man on the braids but I wont dismiss this until more testing is done.

Next and last measure of protection is an additional earth wire. Here we allowed 2 large easy to solder to pads on the rear of the csar decoder. Use a file to remove a fraction of paint/dirt etc of motor can. Use say a 25W soldering iron on the motor end and say 15W soldering iron for car decoder end. Always tin all surfaces before "fusing" together. Practice on old stuff before attempting.

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What wattage glue gun do you use to glue the chips into your cars? I need to buy a new one after discoverying mine no longer works. I don't know if the more powerful 40W guns might make the glue too hot and melt/warp the plastic?
Yes sounds a bit hot.
I use the cheapies from the super market, very small and good for getting in tight spots.

Even then if the gun has been on for a while I turn it off to let it cool a bit, otherwise it takes too long to cool and risk warping chassis. Once chassis warped its useless and car wont handle.

Im now recommending hot glue only for phototransistor install and Blutac to hold chip in place.

For the photo transistor, I bought a 2.9mm drill which makes for nice press in fit.
No need for glue.
Hello Rick,
I finally had time to chip a NSR P68 with Shark 20k Motor (with cap and ferrite ). It works, but when I push the trigger nearly 3/4 on the controller, motor stops, I lift the car on the track, it works again, then stops 3/4 throttle etc..... What is the problem ? the power was first given by a carrera trafo, 17,7 V then lowered to 13V. In this conditions, the acceleration is very poor and stop sometimes at full Throttle.
Hi Dreamop,
Im sure its an easy fix, but first I need to know the following from you?
Do you have the latest firmware, throttle 6.0 and car decoder 4.0?
Have you tried another car chip or controller? Was the controller curve reconfigured by PC? Have you checked throttle using diagnostic tool "Throttle Test"?
Cap and ferrite no longer required on motor or braids, however earth lead is.

Hi Rick,
I have only one chip (received end of may) and one controller (version 5, received with chip ), so I cannot exchange to test.
I did not change anything on controller. It seems that it works a little better in learner mode 85%.
If I understand, the next step is to buy a dongle to update both !

read all the posts... put earth lead... everything is ok now !
Im glad

Just letting everyone know 95% of problems can be solved by readinf the manuals and threads

So far only 3 confirmed issues of hardware breakdowns, a couple of car chips, and 1 LB, which is way above my expectations.

Oh and the dongle re-tune up required.

However you will need to upgrade that car decoder.

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Trying to flash a car chip to v4 and it's stuck on 70% for about 10 minutes now. Went from 0 to 3, then after a while to 5 then after a long while to 70. Total time about 15 minutes and counting...

Is it safe to close the Boot Loader, remove the car from the track and try again without "bricking" the car chip?
Hi Hooch,
Yup just close it and start over. Make sure dongle case is removed and laptop up of the floor. USB extension cable helps. Make sure car antenna is clear of other wires. Ive got a few stubborn chips here that wont reflash. Maybe yours is the same? Let me know.

OK, worked real quick the 2nd time. Thanks, just wasn't sure about stopping it part way through.
Grat stuff, thanks for the feedback
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Hello Rick,

i´m sure it´s answered somewhere else but i have a question to the power supply.
To run 8 cars at once, what´s your reccomendation for the powers supply?
I will separate the lain brain circuit and the track, so i need an estimation.
The maximum load of te chip is 3 amps, but this doesn´t mean 8*3 = 24 A power supply.

Would 12 A fit also?

For the lain brains: if my complete track is running i will need about 18 LB.
So here i will prepare a 18*1,5 = 24 A supply minimum.

Can you confirm?

Thank you very much

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Hi Arndt,
Nop longer do LBs need to have seperate power, in fact its not recommended now since live flipper (powered from Lane Brain) needs to be identical voltage to track. So Im recommending a 25A power supply for your requirements. This saves money and install time.

Hi Guys.

I just chipped n NSR 997 GT Porsche and noticed the car chassis steps up from the front axle area to the front bumper a few milimetres putiing the phototransistor way above its recommended position.

Out of curosity I wondered if the phototransistor could still read the track LED so I did an install 12mm offset to left as per normal adjacent guide. Results only achieved 60% lane changing and lapcounting. Reinstalled phototransistor behind front axle and bingo 100%. So just be aware.

can you post a pic please? - I wonder if it will be the same for the NSR Vette. Either way thanks for sharing and good to know. My 997 was/is still on the list for Scorpius chipping.
The NSR motors are ok to run - what is the hottest motor you have tested rick? I want to chip whatever car I buy with confidence. Have you tried one of the Avant slot truck? (dual motors)
You dont need a pic, just look at the 997 chassis you can see easily what I mean

Sorry Im not into trucks. Im into racing.
Hot motors for digital are too fast to change lanes anyway, but Ive tested 30K Sharks no problems.
Sorry digital chips whatever brand wont suit whatever car you buy.
Try hitting any brand LC at completely flat out speed and it will deslot regardless. Especially your Ninco track where 18K Scaley or 20K Sharkds etc motors are best suited.

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Thanks Rick,

currently i have installed a 12 A rail supply for the cars.
I still want to supply the LB seperately, the same current like the rail is possible.
I have only fear in case of a short circuit (like i know from Carrera Digital).
Short circuits happened from time to time when cars have accidents and the slider is long enough.

In this case the power supply will shut down the the LB would shut of too.
If this doesn´t matter and i don´t have to reconfigure the LB everytime, i would change the supply like you recommended.

Thanks again

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Hi Arndt,

The LBs have protection from short circuits, Ive never damaged an LB from shorts.
If the LB is turned off it keeps its config no problem.

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