[malw]

Hi all,

just a quick question, I have seen it somewhere but cannot find it again, can I convert SCX, Fly and Carrera cars to accept a std scaly motor, I have mostly scalextric and a few of the others, I find the SCX is slower and the fly's super fast as is my carrera audi DTM, I like to race a mixture of these and would like to make the racing more even/fair. So is it possible, easy and or worth doing

.
Thanks in advance.

regards Mal

 

[stoner]

hi scaley comes with the bell end nearest the gear, the older carreras come with the can end nearest the gear, ithink some one does adapters for this and you might have to turn over the gear left to right and cut new slot in chassis to clear the gear, not neccesary if youve got a neutral timed com, but its a must if you go for a 25000rpm + motor as most of these have an advanced com and the motor would spin the wrong way losing lots of power. john.

 

[356speedster]

Hi Mal

Slot.it makes an adapter that allows you to use a Scalextric type motor in the SCX cars.

But before swapping motors there are lot's of other tuning you can do to level out the performance. But I'd like to know if you race with or without magnets and what brand of track you have, long or short straights? and how much voltage you race at (stock or after-market power-supply).

The reason I ask is because both the standard FLY and Carrera motors have been measured and rated to be very similar to the standard Scalextric motors in RPM and power, so there is something else that makes the difference on your track. As for SCX they generally comes with either a standard motor which is much slower than a Scalextric motor, or a so called "B" motor that has close to the same speed as the Scalextric motors and a tick more torque, these "B" motors are usually marked with either a "B" letter on the bottom of can or a green dot. SCX cars also need a lot more "running in" than other brands.

 

[malw]

Hi, thx for the replies,

1. with mags
2. sport track.
3. two longest straights approx 3m
4. stock PSU's at the mo..
5. pbpro sh, SSDC ver4
6 total trk length circa: 15m
7. Hobby racer....

I have just converted a Fly BMW ser3 no problem at all, the fly motor has a red dot, and 'Racing' printed on it, so I guess this is a high rev motor, there lies my problem (this Fly Flies) nothing I have can touch it. I'll look out for the slot.it adspters for the SCX's.

John, I understand what you say except for, not sure of the difference between neutral and advance type comutator. Is the advanced designed to rotate one way only. can you briefly explain, thx. I am not yet thinking of 25000 + as yet, most my stock is std 18000.

thx guys.
Mal

 

[356speedster]

Ahh... I guess the Fly Beemer is one of these then:

That's a short "long can" racing motor that has been tested to do 26.000 - 27.000 RPM at 12 volt, so no wonder why it leaves the others in the dust. The Fly BMW M3 GTR's came with both the racing motor and the standard Scalextric type motor (Mabuchi S-can), so if you look at the pic below you will see a plastic adapter that holds the racing motor in place, remove that adapter and a standard Scalextric S-can will drop right in. Just be careful not to bend the spring that connects the motor to the drive-shaft or you will get vibrations (or just replace the spring with a plastic tube/hose).

As for the difference between the Carrera and Scalextric, I believe it's more due to different levels of magnetic down-force and different tire grip, The easiest way to level out magnet cars is to play around with magnetic down-force, if a car is too fast then lower the down-force and grip by shimming the magnet with a piece of plastic. If a car feels like it has loads of magnetic down-force but still slide out too early then you need to check the wheels and tires first.

Normally I would expect a Scalextric car to beat a Carrera when racing with magnets on Sport track, so I think you should start by checking that the wheels on the Scalextric car are true.

Are you familiar with truing tires?

 

[356speedster]

BTW: I guess you already know this, but SCX cars and also the Carrera DTM's have adjustable magnets, so it's easy to adjust the down-force without having to take off the body.

Also found the article on tire truing: http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...mp;page=SLAP-02

And an Article on SCX tuning that is worth reading: http://www.homeracingworld.com/hrwscxnascartuning.htm

Some mention to run the cars "backwards" while truing tires, but never do this with SCX cars that have lights, it may kill them. So remove the body first or always true them in the "forward" direction when the body is mounted.

Have fun

 

[stoner]

hy mal, on a neutral timed motor the com slot is directly in the middle of the web. in a timed com the com slot is moved from the centre of the web to left or right, very easy to see. looking down on the arm from the com end the direction the com is off centre determines the way the motor travels ie come turned to right = clockwise motor direrction viewed from bell end. the effect is more revs and slightly less torque. john

 

[malw]

Hej guys, (sorry for the delay) thx for all the info, @356.. same chassis and motor, different body, very easy to convert. thx for links ref tuning, the scx one is really good, I,ll be trying this soon. I do true the tyres and shim up axles etc, so not a complete novice (but close lol). Also braid maintenance I find essential, so I have a good idea of the basics. Learning more with every read on this forum,

thx again
Mal

 

[slotcrazy]

Once you have done the other things to optimise tuning, you will be left with differences in magnetic downforce, and in the basic shape of the car, and the limitations of it's engineering.
A simple trick you might want to use if you are trying to level up these widely variant cars, is to get a pair of accurate small "hanging" scales - like the ones they call meat scales, for weighing fish or hanging meat. Run a loop of string from them, under the end of a car nearest the magnet, and pull up to see how much "weight" (lift) it takes to pull the car away from the track rails.

Then you can use small shimming magnets to bring the cars closer together, or place strips of paper UNDER the magnet of some cars which are too superior.

Best solution of course is the "magnet marshal", but it costs quite a bit. On "another forum" I have read of people making their own version of it with cheap kitchen scales, some MDF etc. There may be a thread here showing the same things, but I don't know my way around here so well.

 

[RichD]

Here is a home made version of the Magnet Marshal. The Magnet Marshal website has been down for a while, but a few dealers still have them.

 

[malw]

Hej, wow how cool is that..., now if only I knew what we had in our kitchen...lol.
Some great advice from you all, you can't beat this forum

I'll get there, just so little time, I can see this hobby turning into a passion, hope the wife doesn't read that...

cheers Mal