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The car below is the Carerra 1/24th Auto Union record setting car they built in about 1937? Typical of Carrera cars they run well on Carrera plastic track but not too well on wood routed tracks.

So instead of playing games with changing out components in the plastic chassis such as guides, motors, gears, wheels and axles etc. I decided To make a whole new scratch brass chassis for it.



I decided on using brass rectangular tubing for most of the chassis. I used 1/4 inch tube for the main rails and 3/16 inch tubing for the cross supports and used Parma 1/8 inch flexi II offset square bearings for the axles front and rear. With .050 thick brass sheet for the front guide mount and body mount as well as the rear body mount. All soldered together.


Here is the chassis with Pro Track 1/3/16's diameter front and rear drag tires narrowed to .375. Then I used an old lightened Weldon 1/8 inch axle aluminum gear, With a Sonic 13 tooth pinoin gear. The guide is a standard one. The motor now is a NOS Cheetah Pla-Fit motor I had laying around.





The chassis after getting it all setup and run in was disasembled so I could clean it up a it and then plate it with my new Eastwood tin/zinc electroplating kit. If you polish the brass up well and then rebuff after plating it will look almost like chrome or nickle plating. I like it for corrosion resistance and if music wire is used it will protect the steel from rusting.



The car now when reasembled runs very nicely and smooth as glass on our local commercial track. Its a lot of fun now to drive around as it is a good looking body that now sits lower and looks great. Well worth the effort.

It was mainly built to wipe up the track with Prof. Fates stock Carrera's he runs at the Vegas conventions in this coming 2005 event.


Next up is the Carrera Mecedes version of this.
 

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Smashing, Larry. 1/24 is looking more attractive every day....
Could you tell us a little more about the 'zinc coating kit'- who where how much how complicated?
Usually get a nostalgia buzz from a nicely polished brass frame, but it's a good point you make about piano wire components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Howmet;

The tin/zinc combination plating kit comes from a US company, Eastwood.com which specializes in auto repair and restoration products. It is a kit for US $69.00. and includes all needed except a couple batteries to power it.

There is a quart of electro plating solution, a tin/zinc alloy sacrificial strip that provides the plating material, eye shield goggles, a twin B cell battery holder and wires to connect.

When ready with your item to plate, such as brass, steel, or copper. (No aluminum)!. you open up the quart fluid container, attach the plus lead to the battery and then the plus lead to the plating strip which is submerged in the quart tank and the other negative lead from the battery goes to somewhere on the part to be plated. The battery voltage is 1.5 to 3.0 volts. You then dunk completely the object to be plated in the solution and wait 2 to 3 minutes. Then pull the object out and rinse in cold water, and you are done. Just polish up with a metal polish creme and you are done. The better finish on the object to be plated the nicer finish you get at the end.

This process works well as this is the second one I have had in 6 years. They do wear out over time.
 

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Graham Windle
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larry wouldnt it be possible to make your own plating kit surley all you need is a plastic tub a plastic clip to hold the zinc and some of the electrolyte which is the thing Im not certain about as I cant quite recall my chemistry classes and a psu.The electrolyte must be available from a chemist supplyer with out too much trouble .
 

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Probably it is Graham, a home brew possiblity, if you get the proportions right.

The tin/zinc sacrifical strip item might be hardest to come by. I also am not a great chemist. This comes all set up to go and in 10 minutes you can be plating whatever you want with no hassles. The kit included fluid, is composed of water, stanous sulfate and two different versions of sulphuric acid in some what diferent proportions in a nice safe, sealed storage shipping container,with a working container to use it in. Along with rubber gloves. It is not to be used carelessly as it can cause burns etc. But it sure does work well.

Larry S.
 

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Graham Windle
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Cheers Larry ,
thinking further along these lines would a solution of zinc sulphate (znso4? ) and an inert electrodode made out perhaps a small piece of platinum wire work,as the zinc would be then taken from the electrolyte and deposited on the chassis , Some body corrrect me if Im wrong as Im not 100% on this subject
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Since there seems to be a bunch of these Carrera Audi's and Mercedes out there I decided that should a race for these be possible somewhere. I decided that I wanted mine to be a bit different from similar ones in the race and because I like to do other things.

Here are a couple more shots of the changes including the paint job and the bottom side, to show the mounting method. I used 2/56 all thread rod in each of the body mounting posts driven all the way down to hold well, then the chassis was held on with brass tubing for height adjustment and 2/56 nuts. Holds well but it may be a bit stiff, so I may figure out a better mounting system next.





 
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