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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I have recently upgraded my Ninco 55ohm controllers to the newer 35ohm. These work very well with my Ninco Lamborghini cars but I tried my Carrera Bentley EXP's (magnet adjusted to all positions) last night and there is absolutely no "braking" response, infact the response is worse than the 55ohm controllers.
I have the "Slotforum" track set up in my kids playroom and on the long straight I have to release the trigger before halfway and the car coasts the rest of the way and around the hairpin, any power applied and the car flies off the track.

I also tried a nice pair of Proteus Heuliez Pregunta (silver & racing yellow) and again these cars are very stop/start. Haven't tried without magnet as cannot seem to remove them!

Is there anything (not too expensive) I can do or am I destined to flog these and stick with newer, more responsive cars??

Advice appreciated.
 

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Hi Mark,

Certainly Carrera and Auto Art cars do tend to run on when the trigger is released to brake.
I asked the very same question on this forum some time ago.(You will find it as a topic somewhere on the forum).
It is to do with the design of the motor itself..but in your case it only became apparent when you changed controller.
Did the 55 Ohm controller give beter braking?.I am not familiar with Ninco Controllers but perhaps the 35 Ohm one has different internal circuitry.

All cars have their own characters even of the exact same model..just a case of getting to know them

Cheers
Bryan
 

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Here's a simple test to see if your controller's brakes are working.
Lift the rear wheels of a car off the track so you can rev up the motor while its in your hand.
Press the controller halfway down, then release it (keeping the guide in the slot) and listen to how quickly the motor slows down.
Repeat pressing the controller down the same amount, remove the car's guide from the slot and listen to how quickly the motor slows down.
If the brakes are working, the motor stops very noticeably quicker with the guide in the slot.
If there is no describable difference in how quickly the motor stops, brakes are not working.

If the brakes are not working, most likely there's a broken wire, or the wiper isn't making contact in the right place when the controller is released, or the plug isn't making contact.

All that assumes the controller is wired for brakes in the first place. Some basic home set controllers don't have brakes (easy to tell because there are only 2 connections to the track). From what I've read Ninco controllers all have brakes (I'm sure a Nico specialist will jump in and tell us about any exceptions) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Bryan,
Yes my Autoart are the same with lots of run on. The 55ohm were a little better but not by much, just seemed more responsive on the trigger.

300SLR,
The controllers work with my Ninco cars and the responsiveness is fantastic. It just seems that other brands, especially older ones have very little response when lifting off the trigger. I'm presume it's the motor but I'm. It sure what I can do to make it better, if at all?
I may end up selling them if not and get some newer ones maybe.

Anyway, thanks for responses so far.
 

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Hi Mark,

Although short of replacing the motors with another make don't turf the Carrera Bentley or Auto Art cars. Every slot car brand has it's own "quirks"! Just got to learn their mannerisms
Other brands I have,Scaley,SCX Slot-it,Ninco and Fly have a much better response under braking than do Carrera and Auto Art.
On thinking again the braking thing probablly became more apparent because the 35 Ohm gives you higher speeds for less depression than the 55 Ohm(if that makes sense).

If you do a search for "braking" on the forum you will find more detailed information.The topic was discussed around the middle of June.

All the best
Bryan
 

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QUOTE (Mark Newt @ 16 Jul 2012, 19:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The controllers work with my Ninco cars and the responsiveness is fantastic. It just seems that other brands, especially older ones have very little response when lifting off the trigger. I'm presume it's the motor but I'm. It sure what I can do to make it better, if at all?
The brakes of the 35 Ohm and 55 Ohm controller should be very similar unless there is something wrong with one of them.
The top speed and full throttle acceleration with the 35 Ohm and 55 Ohm controller should be very similar unless there is something wrong with one of them.
The big differance between the 35 Ohm and 55 Ohm controller should be how easy it is to drive quickly round corners. If that means you arrive at the end of the next straight faster then you'll be in more need of brakes.

Assuming the lack of brakes is down to the car, two things that make a big differance to brakes are motor characteristics and gear ratio.
Swamping to a motor with more brakes is one solution.
Changing the gear ratio - less teeth on the pinion and/or more teeth on the axle gear will give more brakes (and more acceleration and less top speed)
If you are into rebuilding motors there are several things that can be done to change the brakes, I'm guessing you don't want to get into all that??
 

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I bought the 35ohms ninco controller and rewired it to standard Parma colours and it works just fine. As the others have suggested, just alter the gearing for better brakes. If its the normal 9-27 gearing try a 7-8t pinion 5.5mm od. as long as you dont have really long straights, its probably the cheapest way to get better brakeing. john
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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With lower ohms you should have a far more responsive car, but brakes should kick in the same as before. If you have cash to burn then get a 27t axle gear and a matching 8t pinion fitted on a high g/cm motor. A 20k or 22k NSR Shark would be good. Don't go higher than 27t on the axle as the wider diameter will snag on the bodyshell.

The Carrera Bentley, however, is a heavy sluggish pig of a car as it has all the weight-laden features of their early models. It might be wise for you to sell it, or even drop a brick from a great height upon it. In my books, it's one of the worst slotcars of the 21st Century.
 

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I actually love the shape of the bently. dont drop a brick on it send it to me, and mr dremel and myself will work a bit of magic on it. i,ve been after one for a while, but have you seen the prices they go for on ebay. john
 

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This is just my own observation.
The Carrera Bentley,which I previously owned, and some AutoArt cars which I have owned. Tended to have a extremely tall final drive ratio. ie small crownwheel and corresponding number of teeth in relation to the pinion.
This tended to result in slower accleration than the norm and crook braking.

I rectified the problem on the Autoart cars by fitting a lower ratio spur and pinion, in fact I used a couple of slot it gears that brought the ratios back to something more like a scaley sidewinder, braking problem solved. Unfortunately the granite like properties of the Autoart tyres was not up to the job and then I had to whack on a set of softer tyres (unfortunately this nessesitated new rims as the autoart rims were an odd configuration) fortunately a set of cheap SCX replacement rims and tyres did the trick.

I cant see why the same solution could not, apply to the Carrera Bentley, although I never found out as I was offered an amount I coudn't refuse for it. Although I know slot it do a complete final drive kit for these earlier Carreras. (probably wouldn't hurt to rip out some of the excess electonic gizmos like the reverse directional switch and assosciated wiring as well if not to save a little weight but to at least simplify inside a little, as I recall the Bentley I owned looked like a bowl of spagetti when opened up).

Good luck.

I just realised screwneck,stoner and300slr had similar advice, I could have saved myself a load of typing.
 

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The 35 ohm vs the 55 ohm resistance of the controller has no control of the brakes on a slot car. The difference in resistance will only affect the amount that you have to move the controller's trigger to have the car react to the controller.

Here's a basic wiring diagram so we can talk about what is going on.



The 'wiring for brakes' is included with each track as all it takes to control the slot car is 2 wires from the driver's station to the track.

All the 'magic of braking' happens in the controller itself. The 'wiper' of the controller is conntected to the black wire. The power comes in to the controller via the white wire. There is a tab in the controller that is connected to the red wire.

A controller when it is just sitting there, trigger released and not connected to any power source, should measure 0 ohms (or very close to it depending on wire gauge, length of wires, etc) between the red and black wires. This is the 'brake' function of the controller. It is simply a short placed across the motor in the slot car. Now as mentioned by many folks, the amount of braking on a particular car varies depending on motor type, gear ratios and other factors. However if you can measure close to 0 ohms, then the controller itself is providng the braking function.

If you want to further diagnose this, turn off the power to your track, hook up your controller and let it sit as above and measure the same 0 ohms between the rails on your track. If you are not measuring close to 0 ohms, there is a problem in the wiring in your driver's station equipment. On some driver's stations there is a fuse to protect the controller if connected improperly. This fuse might be blown.

I hope you can find your propblem as I know how frustrating driving without brakes can be!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Aaaarrrggghhh!! so much to think about!!

Screwneck,
I'm not quite at the stage where I want to dropkick them yet, but you never no!

Stoner,
I may decide to put them up for sale this week. I am only a rug racer so don't really want to get into too much messing about with them. Have the No 7 & 8 versions.

Deslotted,
Always good to get opinions, thankyou.

fl slotter,
Wow, I don't think the controller is the fault and with my luck I would't fancy opening them to look!
I will be in Florida mid August for a few weeks holiday so perhaps I can drop them off LOL! I'm hoping the weather is going to be a lot better than here?
 

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if you have magnets the braking will be secondary. where did you buy the controller from? the braking has nothing to do with the ohm rating. by definition the '35' will be more 'sporty/lively' than the 55. bring the car round to me and and your controllers as I cannot believe it.
 

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Mark Newt,

Well if you bring them and some cars, we can simply check them out and make sure all is fine with them. Then once that is done, we can do some racing!

I am assuming that you are on holiday to Orlando to tour Disney World and it's attractions? We're just up I-4 from Disney, about 45 minutes with very easy directions to find our club at DeBary Glen Raceways.

Looking forward to meeting you.
 

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QUOTE (fl_slotter @ 20 Jul 2012, 00:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Mark Newt,

Well if you bring them and some cars, we can simply check them out Looking forward to meeting you.

Sounds like a race, see if nothing else, your post has resulted in an impromptu, good old fashion., race.
We probably haven't done a thing to help, but theres a race on, so that can only be good
 
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