Cars:- SCX vs Scalextric

Hi mate.

Your magnets in the older cars do wear out & changing them for new ones should be an easy job, ebay is a good source.

How come the long wait for the escort & sunbeam ?. I dont know if the sale is still on but modelzone is/was selling both of them cars for £20 each. Im going to the metro centre today & will report back after I have spent a fortune . I got the sunbeam from the Newcastle store a few weeks ago.

I love most SCX cars but in the past quality control was a bit lacking, I have had several motors fail on me. However recentley they have upped their game & the recent cars are all very good. In the past it was very common for the lights to blow if you had a scaley track as the voltage was a bit to high for the car, but they have sorted that out.

Cheers Paul.

Ah, the happy days before magnets ruled the world. Nothing better than waiting for someone's tail to slide off line and give 'em a gentle nudge out of the slot... tell that to the kids of today Sorry, can't help I'm afraid. Have had a few moderm cars which generally sit in their boxes completely unused whilst the old non magnet ones get used (or they would if I could find them lol)

Good luck.

PS are the SCX lights blowing a major issue or easily sorted - I have a rather nice McRae Jr Evo I'd like to see running on my scaley track, but I had it as a gift in around '02 and would be pretty cut up if it got damaged?

Cheers.

Tail slides are where it's at


Magnets usually deteriorate with heat and being knocked, it's also possible that the old ones were never as strong as the ones in your new SCX cars?

They're your cars so enjoy experimenting; different magnets, different positions in the chassis, trying stuff out is half the fun

Hello Stuart,

Nice to hear about your re-discovery of slot cars. I remember when I got back into slot cars four years ago - trying out the different manufacturers was both fun and interesting.

I have to say, in my experience, my Scalextric cars have always been marginally quicker than my SCX ones. You mention that your current Scalextric cars are all around 15 years old - I think you'll be pleasantly surprised once you pick up a brand new Scalextric model. Of course it varies from model to model, for example, my two Maserati MC12 models are two of the slowest cars I own (they're just too tail-happy), while some of the Le Mans Prototype models (Audi R10, Peugeot 908) have such strong magnets they're among the quickest cars in my collection.

Then, there are so many other makes to consider. My Ninco cars are all pretty quick, while Slot.it are by far my favourite models in terms of performance, looks and build quality).

It depends on the size/type of track you plan to run on. My Avant Slot Pescarolo Sport seems to have a monster under the bonnet and - in a straight line - would probably be one of the fastest cars I own, but I don't have the space to create a straight long enough to find out! Further to this, I have one NSR model, but I've never really been able to run this on my lumpy old plastic track as it's ride height is so low.

My advice is buy cars because you like them (my collection is based on one guiding principal - buy a car if it, or its livery, is 'cool'!) and have fun trying the different manufacturers.

QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 29 Apr 2011, 08:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I tried the cars with no magnets and they were worse on the track than the Scalextric cars.

I assume you mean worse than the Scalextric cars with their magnets still in. That is probably the advantage of SCX cars, their non-mag performance.

As people have already said, your Scalextric cars are from a gentler magnet era, so newer ones will be even more stuck down.

Thanks for the replies chaps.

QUOTE (PJF @ 29 Apr 2011, 07:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Your magnets in the older cars do wear out & changing them for new ones should be an easy job, ebay is a good source.
Time to start looking for new magnets, then. I've got a few other slot items I want off eBay so I'll probably have a look this evening, while Wor Lass is watching the soaps - if I can tear myself away from the attic!

QUOTE (PJF @ 29 Apr 2011, 07:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>How come the long wait for the escort & sunbeam?
Birthday! Wor Lass is getting them for me.

QUOTE (PJF @ 29 Apr 2011, 07:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I dont know if the sale is still on but modelzone is/was selling both of them cars for £20 each. Im going to the metro centre today & will report back after I have spent a fortune.
The sale was still on yesterday, it was MetroCentre I got my new cars from.

QUOTE (Mr.M @ 29 Apr 2011, 08:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I assume you mean worse than the Scalextric cars with their magnets still in.
Yes, that's what I meant.

I've spent some more time in the attic this morning.

How do the magnets come out? I've measured the length and width as best as I can (25x8mm) but what about the thickness?

I'm in the process of doing some back-to-back lap timing. I'll post the results later.

On the SCX cars you can adjust the magnet pull by adjusting the two screws on the magnet holder under the car.

To get more magnet pull loosen the screws (but not so much that the holder starts to rub on the track).

To get less magnet pull, screw the whole magnet holder with the magnet out of the car, turn the holder 180 degrees and re-assemble. This allows the magnet holder to be adjusted further into the chassis, hence making the magnet effect weaker.

Does your Scalextric cars have brown or shiny magnets? I suspect you got cars with the old weak brown magnets mounted under the chassis, if so then there are no direct replacement magnets to buy, but you can always hotglue a new type magnet inside the chassis to increase the magnetic pull.

If you should ever get tired of the stuck down feeling, insane speeds and hard crashes that modern magnets tend to make, then put them on your fridge door and come over to the no-mag world of sticky urethane tires. balancing weights lower track voltage

QUOTE (356speedster @ 29 Apr 2011, 15:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>On the SCX cars you can adjust the magnet pull by adjusting the two screws on the magnet holder under the car.

To get more magnet pull loosen the screws (but not so much that the holder starts to rub on the track).
I hadn't realised that.

QUOTE (356speedster @ 29 Apr 2011, 15:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>To get less magnet pull, screw the whole magnet holder with the magnet out of the car, turn the holder 180 degrees and re-assemble. This allows the magnet holder to be adjusted further into the chassis, hence making the magnet effect weaker.
I had realised that, but thanks for adding it.

QUOTE (356speedster @ 29 Apr 2011, 15:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Does your Scalextric cars have brown or shiny magnets? I suspect you got cars with the old weak brown magnets mounted under the chassis, if so then there are no direct replacement magnets to buy, but you can always hotglue a new type magnet inside the chassis to increase the magnetic pull.
They have the brown magnets.

QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 29 Apr 2011, 12:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm in the process of doing some back-to-back lap timing. I'll post the results later.

I don't know if anyone's remotely interested, but here goes anyway........

First session. 20 laps. All cars run on lane 2 using the same hand controller.

Scalextric F1 cars. Totally standard, with the exception of Scalextric Sport silicon rear tyres.
Williams. Best lap 7.8sec. 7 de-slots
Benetton. Best lap 7.7sec. 4 de-slots

Scalextric Saloons. Totally standard. New Scalextric 11mm grooved rubber tyres.
Megane. Best lap 8.6sec. 11 de-slots
Laguna. Best lap 8.8sec. 8 de-slots

SCX GT3s. Standard. Magnets in highest position.
Porsche. Best lap 8.0sec. 2 de-slots
Morgan. Best lap 8.1sec. 6 de-slots

I then decided to see if I could quieten the saloons in particular and make them run a bit smoother. I don't know if I should have done this, but all 4 Scalextric cars got WD40 in the rear axle bearings and the motor shaft bushes.

Second session. 20 laps. All cars run on lane 2 using the same hand controller.

Scalextric F1 cars.
Williams. Best lap 7.6sec. 4 de-slots
Benetton. Best lap 7.4sec. 2 de-slots

Scalextric Saloons.
Megane. Best lap 8.5sec. 5 de-slots
Laguna. Best lap 8.5sec. 7 de-slots

SCX GT3s.
Porsche. Best lap 7.8sec. 1 de-slot
Morgan. Best lap 8.1sec. 7 de-slots

Third session. 20 laps. All cars run on lane 2 using the same hand controller.

Scalextric Saloons. Now with (badly fitting) Scalectric Sport silicon 8mm wide slicks on rear.
Megane. Best lap 8.3sec. 5 de-slots
Laguna. Best lap 8.1sec. 2 de-slots

SCX GT3s. Magnets now in lowest position.
Porsche. Best lap 7.3sec. 3 de-slots
Morgan. Best lap 7.2sec. 5 de-slots

TBH, I'm not sure what all this means but it's given me something to do while Wor Lass has been at work.

I think I've decided to do nothing more until I've tried the urathene(sp?) tyres on the Megane and Laguna. Depending on the results of that experiment, I'll then decide if I'm going to buy new magnets for all the Scalextric cars or more of Paul's tyres to go on the F1 cars.

The lap times look ok, but the amount of de-slots seam a bit much mate ?.

Are you pushing very hard when your racing, thats the thing with magnet racing as you do not get much of a clue that the car is at the limit of grip until it to late. I am not a big fan of the scaley silicone tyres, they can be a bad fit on normal wheels & a lot of people say they can have a bad effect on your track, taking off any rubber laid down by your normal tyres. I can not confirm this as its only a rumour

Oiling up the gears & bearings will do you cars the world of good, your lap times got better & for some reason less de-slots . I would use 3 in 1 oil instead of WD40. Keep the WD40 for cleaning your track, Light dusting on all of the track, pinch the wife's tea towel & wipe it all off. Wait a short while then have a play.

Running a car with Silicon is bad news for any car that is rubber shod. You create a film on the track that makes it very slippery. Takes a while to get it back to "normal", if that's your normal.

Many a man has been strung up and their controllers shoved up their exhaust pipes, for ruining an entire meeting at club level, by running a car around with silicon tyres on
On a 10 sec lap you increase lap times by about 1.5 secs and your car resembles a wind-screen wiper

ABBO

QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 29 Apr 2011, 19:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the advice. ^^^^^
Yes, I do push hard. I don't think I've had one 20 lap yet where I haven't de-slotted. I need to learn to slow down.
I found that with magnets the car sticks to the track like chewing gum to the cat, until it doesn't stick...

But I'm not good enough to drive on that narrow limit

I've (almost) got the hang of not de-slotting now. I've had several races where the Pacer hasn't de-slotted at all and the race car only has when I've tried too hard to lap the Pacer.

Sorry, but I also have more questions..........

I've seen mention on the forum of certain "mis-matched" guide blades needing to be filed-down. Does this normally apply to SCX cars used on Scalextric Classic track? The reason I ask is that my SCX cars are giving a lot of "clatter" when lapping. I don't want to be filing un-necessarily as I've been having enough trouble with de-slotting without making things worse for myself.

Secondly, the braids on the SCX cars having both ends on the rails. What's that all about?

Another "what's that all about?"...... I've seen posts of WD40 on the tyres. Is this on rubber, silicon or either? What does it achieve? I'd have thought that it would make the tyres too slippery. What am I missing here?

Track cleaning. What's the best stuff to clean the rails and also the plastic? TBH I really ought to start upgrading to new Sport track, but it will have to be done a section at a time so I don't want to be contaminating the new stuff with rubbish from the old.

Again, TIA
Stuart.

Stuart, SCX & the Scalextric "Classic" plexy track are identical, so SCX cars are designed for that track.
The slot in the old classic track is 5mm. The slot in Scaley Sport track is 6mm, so it is better for a lot of modern slots.
Sport track is very smooth & gives very little grip to the old non mag cars.It`s a matter of opinion, but I reckon the old classic track is far superior to the modern stuff.
I`ve got a really old Scaley layout & also a Jouef one. I`ve always just wiped the rails with an oily rag after every use. Twice a year I clean the plastic by spraying on a light coat of WD40 then wiping well off. You`ll rarely have any problems by just keeping the track clean.Never ever use any type of abrasives to clean your rails. If they are rusty & warped they should be binned as a matter of course.
Putting stuff on tyres? Absolutely no need on home racing.It always makes good sense to change tyres on an old model if you`re going to race it often.
Twin braids is supposed to make for better electrical pick up. Not a new idea, been around for years.
I reckon you`re getting hooked mate...
Cheers,
Kev

QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 29 Apr 2011, 21:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Secondly, the braids on the SCX cars having both ends on the rails. What's that all about?

You can re-thread the SCX braids to a "single braid setup" like this:



This gives the braids less "spring" effect which help to plant the guide better into the slot. To "restore" the braids before re-installing, drag them between your thumb nail and your index finger.

I used WD40 to clean tires for years, then converted to rolling tires on packing tape, but now I only use a damp cloth (water) to spin the tires on and have just as good grip (if not better) than before. The key is to "rubber in" your track to lay down a rubber film which increase grip, and then keep the track dust free using microfibre cloth and/or a vacum cleaner.

As for tires I would recommend to stay away from silicone. They give great grip but they can be difficult to sand/true and when most stock wheels are out of round, it means that to get a good contact path on a silicone tire you often need to replace the wheels with alu-wheels which again often require a new axle, bushing and/or gears, in other words an expensive route. In addition they tend to reduce the grip for stock tires and other rubber/urethane tires by erasing the "rubber film" that rubber and urethane tires lay down. As mentioned that rubber film is very important to get good grip on stock/rubber/urethane tires, especially with low or no mag pull.

Lot's of more tricks in this book: http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...ot_Car_Handbook

Tore