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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
opinions arent everything, but the more their is the more we/I/you know.

anyway, first findings are. Rechargeable batteries arent accepted by the Bang and Oulfson(sp) styled starting watsit-me-doo-dad thing, nuts! I needed to actually leave my lounge and go to the shop in the freezing cold!
infact I didnt and just found a couple of AA battery operated clocks as you do


next thing, magnet thing is a bit wierd, although should be used for the rms stuff. also, how are you going to race it with the rms software?? because it will be difficult to press fast and the blue button on rms at the same time!

next next thing, you need to have the control thing witin 30cm of the car.. *Inte lies on floor waving thing around in a cant be arsed way as I cant be arsed to get up and actually go near the car so it works*

sad thing is though I took the mag out of my bentley the rear most one, and proceeded to beat it on fast. So with this in mind I would say that it is aimed for a niche market like (cant think of an example). I feel it is a bit complicated for kids to operate with the put it on sideways then with power on swing in tail if you are using it on the right hand lane. and for the clu racer or quicker home racer it isnt all that fast. although it does stay on..(occationally).

this test was on carrera and I was using the plunger controller and the shorting plug provided
will test at wrexham on monday til then.. please comment

Rob.
 

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QUOTE sad thing is though I took the mag out of my bentley the rear most one, and proceeded to beat it on fast
I would hope so but why is that a sad thing? A tweaked LMP vs a DTM car should turn up the same results in real life.

How does it compare when you race a box-standard or mildly tuned DTM against the Merc, now THAT's what I'm keen to know. Does it accelerate and brake at the right spots? my Pacer never managed it properly. Can you set only Fast or slow or can it be varied in between like Pacer?
And thanks for the tip about rechargeables.
 

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DT
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Thanks Rob


How many set of track-magnets are supplied?

If only one, it would be a pain switching it around my 4-lane track. It may end up with the tight lane (if it can handle it).
 

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Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE Rechargeable batteries arent accepted

Inte, why is this? I use Ni-Cd and other rechargeable cells in tons of stuff over here, so this sounds.... well.... foreign!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
550, sadly this is the carrera bentley which has been absolutely slated, however since you asked so nicely I will get it all out and set up again tomorrow just to test my ninco clk dtm against it.

yes sadly also, that it is only fast or slow (which actually seem the same, no timing on my circuits!)
what I would like to see on challenger 2 is some gubbins that will let you drive the car, and it will sustain this pace. pacer-esq

yep, only one set of mags although I'd think that if 2 sets were put on one lane it would play games with the car.
you might also want to run it on your best lane so it is actually a challenge! I found it easy to beat as did rr3.9 with a 100g ninco M3 and well a scaley stang just whooped it's backside!

Fergy - it may accept them although the leaflet suggested not to, although I should try it as I have been guarenteed a replacement if it kicks the bucket!

also, the gubbins cant be transferred to another car unless you want to start cutting up the chassis.

We also found it to be quite top heavy! and didnt like sliding

Rob.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE it may accept them although the leaflet suggested not to

Obviously, I don't want to be responsible for smoking a car in the UK
but, here, they usually suggest that rechargeables may not last as long (they're only 1.2 - 1.25 volt versus 1.5 for a regular battery), so I always try them, and have frequent success. Honestly, I don't see how they could cause any problem other than a possibly shortened use span. (I have an 11-year-old son with more battery-powered things than Thomas has slot cars!
) We use rechargeables - NiCd, NiMH, rechargeable Alkaline - and it's great even if you have to change them out a bit more often. I've found very few things that didn't work well with them, and even then, it was because the batteries were underpowering the device. I'd give it a try.

Just FWIW,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I tend to like the 240volt option but there are stacks of rechargables round here!

got 2 sets of 4 nimh for digicam, 8 nicd for RC controller, 4 sets of 2 nicd for personal cd player etc etc

Rob.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Inte, if they are separate cells, try 'em! Can't hurt! Worst result? They won't have enough voltage to run it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
blasted post restriction!

yes, just for you I will try tomorrow! also, the base seems pointless as I ended up just picking it up and taking it around the track with me!

Rob.
 

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QUOTE Rechargeable batteries arent accepted by the . . . .
Inte please can you clarify this?
What does "aren't accepted" mean?
Obviously they will physically fit.
As Fergy says, usually they will work, though definitely not last as long before needing racharging as a standard battery would before being dumped. Well worth it in the long run though.

Having said this, I once had a floor mounted, battery powered, guitar effects unit that would not work with certain nominal 9 volt rechargeables. The reason was that these particular units were simply too low voltage at a true 7.6 volts or something similarly useless! But most rechargeables are much closer to specified voltage these days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok, it recommends not using them rather than not accepting them. So I tried it as you do. 2 NiCd batteries went in, the red ones with silver bottoms cant remember the make anyway I charged them over night. had to half the distance from the banana thing to the car, so normal batteries work better, rechargable do work, but as long as you remove them eac time you use it they will last for years.. or they will in mine anyway unless it goes any quicker!

Although I had a little tinkering session after I went offline last night and loosened the body a little, sanded the tyres.. what an epic that was with the lights!
and switched the switch to classic.. (I was beaten by it on slow this morning)

Fergy, I use my ninco CLk as I said and well on the classic setting on slow I could just about stay with it, then either it or I would crash because there was a lack of cleaning going on! so I finally cleaned track and tyres on both with sticky tape as it suggests, Adrian reacons that WD isnt needed (sh'yeah right trying that later then!) ok, kept up with it until my tyres went off and the car decided it wanted to be sideways


Then I switch the switch to sport mode, ahhhh thats better whooped it's backside on both slow and fast.

seems to be quicker this morning though! should be trying it on some sport later and will be able to get an un-modded scalex clk to try to beat it. in other words, going round a mates house who aint too quick in a vague attempt to either annoy him or find the market for it. Although I think I will re build my sport later in the lounge and see how I do on that.. seeing as how tracks vary from one to another, tyres suit different tracks!

questions/ answers?

Rob.
 

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My Challenger finally turned up today, a black one.
Hope I can add some useful info.

I use Scaley sport and have set up a small 8.07 metre circuit. Everything is set up, put the car on the circuit and it gets stuck.

Seems that the guide isn't straightening itself out. Looks like the little sensor it uses on the guide has got stuck. Taking the body off and replacing it sorts the problem. It trundles up to the line, (or where-ever the magnet is) and waits.

It all runs just like Astros report, great! Except I thrashed it on its first outing. I used the Scaley DTM Merc, unmodified. All I have done with both cars is a light oiling and truing the tires. It was slightly harder with the Carrera Bentley though.
Oddly enough is does go faster when you set the switch underneath to classic. On my circuit it managed 3.6 sec on the Sport setting and 2.8 on the Classic setting.

To get it to do the fifty laps you have to press the fast or slow button, and then the learn button. It must be done really quickly though.

The problem with the guide blade was really annoying. Anybody else not willing to have a play about, would have either damaged it or taken it back to the shop.
The guide blades are a special one for the car, they have an extra slot in them for the sensor. You do get two spares but, will these be readily available in the shops?
It seems to be making a lot of grinding noises inside, I assume this the sensor/servo thing doing its stuff.
If you run it for too long, it sense's that the motor is getting warm and slows down.
It doesn't seem to use full throttle at all.

It is a challenge to beat it, especially on shorter circuits with crossovers in. In one attempt it shunted me off on the crossover, in another both cars came off. Which does mean a restart of the race.
It has yet to deslot. It is very consistant, which is where it beats you. You come off once and its beaten you!

Over Christmas I'm hoping to try it out on a longer circuit, I can normally get a 16 metre one set up, so will let you know all know how it goes.
 

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QUOTE If you run it for too long, it senses that the motor is getting warm and slows down
This is a new aspect, not previously mentioned. I would guess that it might sense increased resistance to current which could easily be interpreted as equivalent to temperature or, heaven forbid, you actually got the motor so hot that it slowed down naturally!

I have to say that, after reading some rash exaggeration a few weeks/months ago, I am a little disappointed to be seeing that it is not unbeatable, even in the mode that that someone boldly described as impossible to beat! Such silly exaggeration usually leads to disappintment, which is why I strongly discourage it, but otherwise pay little heed.

I do have one on order now and as a pretty mediocre driver, it will probably give me more of a challenge than you whiz-kids!
 

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Howdy Doodley Doo!

New user to this forum with a newly acquired Challenger


So it arrived yesterday and having had to take my track down to decorate, I threw together a new layout (scaley sport track) and ran a couple of cars around to make sure it all worked ok.

As ppl seem to have said, this thing is a doddle to set-up and I was eager to have at least something to pace myself against....

So, I throw all the gubbins in the relevant places on the track and put the car in the slot at it's appropriate jaunty angle and press the "learn" button......and we're off...

The merc runs along learning the track and completes it's two laps and stops ready to go from the start line........excitement building.......

So, off we go....I press the "slow" button.....red, red, red, red....green....it accelerates up the straight...................and FLIES OFF AT THE FIRST CORNER!

Now I've tried running it on both fast and slow, multiple times...and each time off at the first corner. So the cover comes off, and I tried a couple of magnets at the front, then at the back and nothing...it's off on the first corner every time!


Can anyone give me some suggestions to try and get this little f****r round the track?
 

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Muffin Man, I've been thru this at inte's track......


The only way to get it working was:

a- Make sure the switch on the bottom of the car is set to the type of track most similar to that which you're using.

b- Before putting the Challenger car on the track, move the guide so that it is sprung to one side completely (the one we were using wouldn't always spring back to one side fully) When putting the car on the track, place the guide in the track (remember guide fully sprung to one side) and then straighten the car up with the guide IN the slot.

Finally get the car to re learn the circuit, and you should be away


-Rob
 

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Jim Moyes
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Hmmm! Troubles with Challenger!!

If I could be bothered, I would go into some inane diatribe about "UK Jonny" being massively disappointed with this sort of thing happening on Christmas day, but I can't.

So I won't!!

Mr.M
 

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Hmmm, thanks 3.9....tried that and am still having probs


Since last post I have added a button magnet to the rear and weighted the rear too...this didn't seem to help much.

I then weighted the front with blu-tac and managed to get it to go round 25 laps.....unfortunately the tack was on the exterior of the car.

When I transferred it inside, the car started coming off again?!??!??!?! And it took ages making sure to avoid moving parts inside.

Also tried truing the tyres, cleaning track, running tyres over sticky tape etc.

I'm starting to wonder if I've got a duffer
 

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mine did this at first, Mr Muffin. i put a bar magnet on the pan under the rear axle, so it would be close to the track. A button magnet there means as soon as the back swings out, and it is actually needed, it isnt over the rails. I used the thinest scaley one. Now it works on slow always and on fast often. Good luck
 

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Alan Tadd
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Chaps

Are you not missing the point here?.

The systems that you have clearly do not work as they should. Therefore they are faulty and should be returned to where you bought them from.

How can Scalextric put right these faults unless they know about them?, and the best way to ensure you have their attention is to return goods as faulty. No manufacturer likes this.

Regards

Alan

PS Comments from a Scalextric representative may be appropriate, regarding this apparent problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
turn the car upside down, turn the guide as far as it will goto the left. then, keeping it turned all the way to the left put the car on the track, and let the wheels spin held in the air by you. rotate the car so that it is in a stright line on the track with the power flowing through. now, put the rear wheels down, and let it run round to the start line. press learn, 2 laps, press learn 2 laps, press fast, race it try slow

Rob.

p.s if this doesnt work the proper termimology of it is that it is f***ed!
 
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