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· Graham Windle
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5,014 Posts
You got it thats why I tried the other way still didnt work though.I later tried mounting an inline motor on a pivoting cradle to keep the rear wheels and guide in contact with the track , similar to todays flexy board but with out the springing ,Its quite bad to visualise but it did work well breaking the accrington lap record on its first outing (a record which had stood unchallenged for over 12 months)
Unforunatly I didnt keep it but I have enough spares to replicate it one day including the Marcos mantis bodyshell
 

· Brian Ferguson
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4,318 Posts
Okay, good, for once I've understood a chassis I haven't even seen.
If I was to build one now... and will shortly, I hope... I think I'll give a look at the torsion rod versions that I've seen done by people like Chris Briggs. I have an idea for tying the front wheels into it in a different way.... gotta love it, there's always a different way to build a scratchbuilt chassis!
 

· Alan Tadd
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4,044 Posts
The X frames always seemed to work best on the long wheelbase cars such as the Dodge Daytona (9'-9").

Mine were brass and sprung piano wire with 30 degree anglewinder Group 20's.

I seem to remember they needed lots of weight in front of the guide so the Daytona body was ideal to hide all that extra chassis work.

In those days the front wheels had to be in contact with the track or the car would not pass the scrutineer.

Never did get this type of chassis to work with short wheelbase cars (8'-0"), so I guess thats why I used long wheelbase sports cars.

The Bog chassis were very good and could be made to go very well with minimal work.

I wish I had kept mine!.

Regards

Alan
 

· Registered
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2,065 Posts
QUOTE (David Lawson @ 29 Jan 2004, 03:03 PM)These are some of my chassis from the early seventies and they lean more towards JohnP's philosophy on chassis building rather than the perfection of Howmet's.
Thanks for the compliment David - a little harsh on howmet I thought tho'


Seriously, this is a great thread guys. I wonder how many of us have been out checking through our stocks of piano wire, brass tube, etc today?
 

· Brian Ferguson
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4,318 Posts
Thanks, John!
Now... if I was a chassis that hadn't been seen in 20 years, where would I be hiding...


I think everyone who actually scratchbuilds a chassis can sit back and feel very good about it - there's something about building your own (no matter how well it runs) that is enormously satisfying. And it's impossible to ever get to the point where you can't do it better or can't find a different design to try - for me, it's the slot racing equivalent of being an Adrian Reynard or a John Barnard, etc. Great fun!

Chris: Love your pages on chassis construction. Anyone wanting to get their feet wet should check them out.


I've got to do one up like Russell's too. Love the basic rod frame and brass pan designs, especially for older open-wheel cars! So much to do, so little time..
 

· Registered
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398 Posts
New chassis for Vintage class Indy style racing in the SF bay area in California.
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Got a call from a guy in the Bay area of Ca. asking if I could build him a scratch chassis from one of my torsion bar chassis for him. Only thing is the local rules only allow the use of the old REH rear axle motor mount to mount up the 16d he was going to use.

I said yes send me the parts you need to use and the new motor. So I just finished it up, and gave it a test run last night. Runs like a scalded ape, so hopefully he will like it when I send it to him today. He wants to paint up the old vintage STP Lotus Indy Turbine powered body himself. Hopefully he sends me a shot of it when he is done with it.

Would would be a good one for some races at the Convention. Though the tires are a bit small they allow for true scale racing.

Chris Briggs also built a chassis for him he may want to post pictures of also. The guy wanted to try a couple types, I guess. So be it. The more the merrier, the more fun.






 

· Registered
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4,591 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Beautiful and inspiring, Larry! And all you other contributors too, thanks!
I got myself a 1/24 Eagle shell ready and waiting as well... the last proper racing F1 chassis I built had a pivoting rear axle/motor cage- I wanted to see if I could remember how and why I did that, too.
Happy soldering/gluing/drilling/whatever, chaps! As long as you take the photos too....
 
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