Chassis building

14411 Views 108 Replies 15 Participants Last post by howmet tx, Feb 26, 2004

howmet tx

Discussion Starter · Jan 29, 2004

I'd love to see more pics of chassis in all their wonderful variety- especially with build details, too. Graham has some fantastic ideas, I see, and Russell sets the mark for craftsmanship so far, but let's see some more! I especially want to know about ideas for improved handling (doh!)
Mrs Howmet has promised to knit some prizes for the most interesting posts.

To set the ball rolling, herewith my first go at a 1/24 'retro' car, '67 period or thereabouts. Straightforward brass/piano wire inline with drop arm and floppy outriggers. Still looking for an appropriate motor.....

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21 - 40 of 109 Posts

GRAH1

· #21 · Jan 29, 2004

You got it thats why I tried the other way still didnt work though.I later tried mounting an inline motor on a pivoting cradle to keep the rear wheels and guide in contact with the track , similar to todays flexy board but with out the springing ,Its quite bad to visualise but it did work well breaking the accrington lap record on its first outing (a record which had stood unchallenged for over 12 months)
Unforunatly I didnt keep it but I have enough spares to replicate it one day including the Marcos mantis bodyshell

Fergy

· #22 · Jan 29, 2004

2

Okay, good, for once I've understood a chassis I haven't even seen.

If I was to build one now... and will shortly, I hope... I think I'll give a look at the torsion rod versions that I've seen done by people like Chris Briggs. I have an idea for tying the front wheels into it in a different way.... gotta love it, there's always a different way to build a scratchbuilt chassis!

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BEEJAY7

· #23 · Jan 29, 2004

The X frames always seemed to work best on the long wheelbase cars such as the Dodge Daytona (9'-9").

Mine were brass and sprung piano wire with 30 degree anglewinder Group 20's.

I seem to remember they needed lots of weight in front of the guide so the Daytona body was ideal to hide all that extra chassis work.

In those days the front wheels had to be in contact with the track or the car would not pass the scrutineer.

Never did get this type of chassis to work with short wheelbase cars (8'-0"), so I guess thats why I used long wheelbase sports cars.

The Bog chassis were very good and could be made to go very well with minimal work.

I wish I had kept mine!.

Regards

Alan

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JohnP

· #24 · Jan 29, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

QUOTE (David Lawson @ 29 Jan 2004, 03:03 PM)These are some of my chassis from the early seventies and they lean more towards JohnP's philosophy on chassis building rather than the perfection of Howmet's.
Thanks for the compliment David - a little harsh on howmet I thought tho'

Seriously, this is a great thread guys. I wonder how many of us have been out checking through our stocks of piano wire, brass tube, etc today?

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David Lawson

· #25 · Jan 29, 2004

I'm off to John Duttfields in the morning to stock up on piano wire, brass rod and sheet.

David

Fergy

· #26 · Jan 29, 2004

I'm still trying to find all my all old chassis, let alone thinking about new ones!

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JohnP

· #27 · Jan 30, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

QUOTE I'm still trying to find all my all old chassis
Hey Fergy, when you do, get 'em straight onto the scanner - that anglewinder looks beautiful

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JBriggsK9

· #28 · Jan 30, 2004

Well, I might as well get in on this too

As for the "how do you do it" part, I just finished up a little building 101 article that I hope will help the new builders get started......

http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/chrisbriggsslotcarpage/id35.html

Chris

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Fergy

· #29 · Jan 30, 2004

4

Thanks, John!

Now... if I was a chassis that hadn't been seen in 20 years, where would I be hiding...

I think everyone who actually scratchbuilds a chassis can sit back and feel very good about it - there's something about building your own (no matter how well it runs) that is enormously satisfying. And it's impossible to ever get to the point where you can't do it better or can't find a different design to try - for me, it's the slot racing equivalent of being an Adrian Reynard or a John Barnard, etc. Great fun!

Chris: Love your pages on chassis construction. Anyone wanting to get their feet wet should check them out.

I've got to do one up like Russell's too. Love the basic rod frame and brass pan designs, especially for older open-wheel cars! So much to do, so little time..

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Larry LS

· #30 · Jan 30, 2004

6

New chassis for Vintage class Indy style racing in the SF bay area in California.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Got a call from a guy in the Bay area of Ca. asking if I could build him a scratch chassis from one of my torsion bar chassis for him. Only thing is the local rules only allow the use of the old REH rear axle motor mount to mount up the 16d he was going to use.

I said yes send me the parts you need to use and the new motor. So I just finished it up, and gave it a test run last night. Runs like a scalded ape, so hopefully he will like it when I send it to him today. He wants to paint up the old vintage STP Lotus Indy Turbine powered body himself. Hopefully he sends me a shot of it when he is done with it.

Would would be a good one for some races at the Convention. Though the tires are a bit small they allow for true scale racing.

Chris Briggs also built a chassis for him he may want to post pictures of also. The guy wanted to try a couple types, I guess. So be it. The more the merrier, the more fun.

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Fergy

· #31 · Jan 30, 2004

6

Larry.... as always....

Now, are you gonna divulge how you finished the underside???

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Tropi

· #32 · Jan 30, 2004

2

That there be 1/32 scale golden alligator hide!

A VERY nice job as always.

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Fergy

· #33 · Jan 30, 2004

QUOTE 1/32 scale golden alligator hide!

I keep setting traps for those, but haven't caught one yet.....

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howmet tx

Discussion Starter · #34 · Jan 30, 2004

Beautiful and inspiring, Larry! And all you other contributors too, thanks!
I got myself a 1/24 Eagle shell ready and waiting as well... the last proper racing F1 chassis I built had a pivoting rear axle/motor cage- I wanted to see if I could remember how and why I did that, too.
Happy soldering/gluing/drilling/whatever, chaps! As long as you take the photos too....

JBriggsK9

· #35 · Feb 1, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

2

larry

here is the one I did up for Alan........ same basic idea... but I used the center piviot point with the 1/32 dia. piano wire for my torsion bars.....

never could figure out how to post pictures but here are the links to the photos.

Chris

have ago at the other one ,
Graham

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GRAH1

· #36 · Feb 1, 2004

Chris delete this bit of the url -...w=*2B68401C7A29
and add.jpg when you paste into the image tag and it will work

Ill edit one for you they look too good not to show

JBriggsK9

· #37 · Feb 1, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

okay what happen???????????

chris

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JBriggsK9

· #38 · Feb 1, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

one more time....... well that dont work........ did I ever tell ya I hate computers

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Tropi

· #39 · Feb 1, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

Hi fellas -
The file extension is .jpg
not .jpeg
I'll try to fix them all.

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GRAH1

· #40 · Feb 2, 2004

QUOTE Chris delete this bit of the url -...w=*2B68401C7A29
and add.jpg
QUOTE not .jpeg

Isnt that what I wrote?

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