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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I´m new to the forum, and I´d like to have some advice to set up a brass 1/28 chassis with a 16D type motor.
I live in Argentina and 1/28 is a common scale here (we race 1/24 and 1/32 too), perhaps you are not too familiar with 1/28 since I couldn´t find anything on the net about these...

What I´d like to know is about the front end of the car (guide, front axle, track clearance, etc), to make it tighter or looser. The track I´m going to race at is a fast one with generally wide turns.

If you are not familiar with 1/28, perhaps your experience from 1/24 might help too...

So, any help??


Thnx a lot!!!
 

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Alan Tadd
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Hi Julian and Welcome to the Forum.

I must admit I have never heard of 1/28th scale cars, if you have any pictures it would be great to see them.

Regards

Alan
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Odd scale for slot cars - until you buy VMG cars that is!

I will move this to scratch building Julian, you might get a better response from the Brass gurus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well... there´s nothing strange with 1/28 cars really... they are bigger than 1/32 and smaller than 1/24...
but they use the same motor, transmision, wheels, guide, etc... I don´t have pics atm, but if I get one I´ll post it.

They are a lot more stable than 1/32, because they are almost as wide as a 1/24 car, so I should assume their setting up wouldn´t be much different from 1/24s. The main thing is 1/28s are made of brass and steel strings, not pressed steel.

My main concern is about the front end, and the front wheels... Some racers take them off on purpose, but I think they should helps to stabilize the front of the car...then again, if they are touching the track too much, they may prevent the braids to properly make contact with the rail so...


I don´t need any weight distro help, because I have my own opinion about that, and seems to be good so far...


Thnx for the help!
 

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Julian Racer

I have seen the 1/28th cars...... I built a Ferrari F1 in that scale a number of years ago.....
As for the chassis what kind of car is it going under?? do you want inline, anglewider or what??

as for the front end set up I race mostly 1/32 and I have all my wheels touching the track..... the key to this is setting up and spacing the guide, so you hav good contact around the track... I find that the front tires touching the track helps.. But I don most racing on a smaller routed track...
I have just started in 1/24 and they set them up with the wheels not touching... But they are not trying to use big heavy hard plastic bodies....

You can really go both ways with one build.... set the chassis up to have the wheels touching and then add spacers under the guide to get the tires up off the track. see what works better for you.....

But the important thing is to set you wheels up to turn independently of each other. independent front wheels are always the way to go...

Chris
 

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I'm really intrigued as to how you folks ended up in 1/28 scale. How did that happen? Where do you get spares like wheels, bodies etc? Do you turn down 1/24 stuff? Doesn't it restrict your choices a lot?
And if you race 1/32 and 1/24 as well, what purpose does the 'in-between' scale serve? Is it that much different?
Fascinating, fascinating. And good news for VMG, I suppose.

Another surprising episode in the never-ending slot story!
 

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Senior Slot Car Mechanic
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QUOTE I'm really intrigued as to how you folks ended up in 1/28 scale.
Simple answer to that,1/28 seems to be a real popular scale for Japanese model manufacturers,they made a huge number of sports/CanAm cars in this scale,also,a lot of the Japanese kits that state 1/32 on the box,are rather on the large side(VMG Syndrome)and are more in the 1/28 scale range.

LS is one of the major companies off the top of my head.Most of this range were motorised battery powererd kits.Usually with one piece bodies that made them ideal for slot cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (JBriggsK9 @ 24 Sep 2004, 01:45)Julian Racer

I have seen the 1/28th cars...... I built a Ferrari F1 in that scale a number of years ago.....
As for the chassis what kind of car is it going under?? do you want inline, anglewider or what??

as for the front end set up I race mostly 1/32 and I have all my wheels touching the track..... the key to this is setting up and spacing the guide, so you hav good contact around the track... I find that the front tires touching the track helps.. But I don most racing on a smaller routed track...
I have just started in 1/24 and they set them up with the wheels not touching... But they are not trying to use big heavy hard plastic bodies....

You can really go both ways with one build.... set the chassis up to have the wheels touching and then add spacers under the guide to get the tires up off the track. see what works better for you.....

But the important thing is to set you wheels up to turn independently of each other. independent front wheels are always the way to go...

Chris
Thnx JBriggsk9 for your tips!! Anyway, I know this is a bit of trial and error, so I´ll have to check what´s best for me. You are right about independent front wheel rolling though. The bodies are made of lexan (touring cars mostly) and the engine is not in line, but angled.

@ howmet tx: 1/28 is common in Argentina, although, it was much more common 10 years ago. The 1/24 "invasion" began in the 90s here, but 1/28 remains healthy...
As I wrote before, it uses the same motor, wheels, etc. than a 1/24 car. We use lexan bodies of touring cars from real Argentinian series.

Perhaps this weekend I´ll take pics from my 1/28 car and post it so all of you will have a better idea of what I´m talking about.
 

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JRacer:

What are typical tire diameters, wheelbase, ground clearance, body width, etc. that are allowed under the rules?

Bob S.
 
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