SlotForum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

Premium Member
Joined
2,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been using the method as described on the SlotIt site for chassis straightening for quite some time now with all makes of chassis and never had a problem before the other night. Dismantled a new SlotIt Nissan R89C [the 85 Tenoras car] i purchased a while back and prepped the chassis on a flat plate [in my case a circular saw blade!] and followed the procedure as per the PDF instructions, what i ended up with was a wrinkled up mess! So a new chassis is now required but what i would like to know is has there been a material change and if there is shouldn't the instructions on the site be reviewed?

[oneofwos]
 

Registered
Joined
45 Posts
Never personally had any issue straightening any Slot.it chassis, but last 2 NSR chassis I've tried to straighten have destroyed themselves 馃槺馃槺
 

Premium Member
Joined
5,559 Posts
I don't mean this in a mean way but to hear of other folks having issues with flattening chassis makes me feel that much less of a numpty.
thumbsup2.gif
 

Registered
Joined
1,504 Posts
I can't imagine any plastic that would deform so badly using water below boiling temperature. It seems something else must have been in play - eg the location of the tray of water in relation to an oven element that caused an issue.

Personally, I don't use either the oven, nor the "hair drier" system that some use. I simply have small plastic take-away containers and rectangles of 3mm steel big enough to surround a chassis and sit in the tub.

I pour my boiling water over the lot, leave it to cool, repeat 30 minutes later. Sometimes JUST to be sure, I do a 3rd dose of water - depends on my need for hot drinks and patience on that day.

The chassis are always sufficiently cooked and flat long before the tyres are glued and trued.
 

Premium Member
Joined
2,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Used the same method with all my chassis from all different makes and never had a problem, always use the same flat plate, water tray and even the same kettle!

I switch the oven off well before i place the tray into it, i never pour the hot water directly onto the chassis but to one side so i can't see whats changed. The last SlotIt chassis i did prior to this was an Alfa 155 and the Alfa is a more recent model than the Nissan and had no problem at all.

Be nice to know what went wrong before i attempt to flatten the replacement!

[oneofwos]
 

Premium Member
Joined
563 Posts
Never personally had any issue straightening any Slot.it chassis, but last 2 NSR chassis I've tried to straighten have destroyed themselves
I use a hair drier on the soft NSR chassis. Same result. Though on the Mosler I found I had to put a .015 feeler gauge under the front splitter to get it to stay flattish once the chassis had cooled.

Tried the water method on an SCX F1 Ferrari .. it damn near melted in boiling water. Not recommended.
 

Premium Member
Joined
5,559 Posts
"Tried the water method on an SCX F1 Ferrari .. it damn near melted in boiling water. Not recommended."

Ah! So very, very, reassuring that I'm not alone.

But, damn it, this thread is encouraging me to dig deep and try again. Only those darned old SCX F1s are getting pricey on eBay. Doubtless down to the dwindling supply caused by....
 

ParrotGod
Joined
8,236 Posts
I have done the chassis of the Tenoras car and no issue at all.

Did you use more magnets than usual? the very first chassis I did was a scalex MP4-12C and I used so many magnets stacked on each other that it deformed some part of the chassis.

NSR chassis should never be done with this method.

Just put them on the flat surface with magnets and leave them there for a week or so.
 

Premium Member
Joined
2,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No, same single round neo's as usual.

I am thinking it's more to do with material change, the plastic used doesn't seem the same as all my other SlotIt chassis, it's a blue/grey material.

Whats strange is that the magnets left an indentation as if the plastic melted, seen ring mark before but never indentations!

While on the subject of the chassis, it has two holes either side which have a removable blanking plug, what are they for?

[oneofwos]
 

Matt Tucker
Joined
3,550 Posts
John

those holes are used if you use the pods with the side arms so there are 6 chassis/pod connection points - it seems that on plastic track using these side arms, sometimes instead of the rear two, and putting suspension in them, aides handling.

I have noticed that the more recent slot it chassis's are more flexible than earlier versions, I believed it was due to the never ending battle to reduce weight of models to give performance advantage esp on plastic track. I presumed it was a reduction in the nylon content which does reduce the melting point of the plastic, obviously on yours you hit that critical melting point.

You'll notice now that scaleauto show the weight of their different hardness chassis, can be 7g for a flexible one and 11g for a stiffy. It is not down to how much material but the material density and nylon content which will affect meting point.

We need to adjust temps accordingly, start at lower temp (80C?) and work up until the annealing process straightens properly
 

Premium Member
Joined
2,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info.

Regards the chassis, yes i understand what you say is probably the reason for the problem and if this is the case the "tuning" instructions on the SlotIt site should be updated and adjusted to give a warning that this could happen, be nice to have Maurizio thoughts on this.

[oneofwos]
 

Premium Member
Joined
428 Posts
I have a peace of ground flat bar about 8mm thick a heap of magnets . I put the chassis on the flat bar then put magnets all over it sometimes as many as 10. Put in a glass dish then pour boiling water over it.

The heat stays in the bar let cool about an hour all good.
 

Registered
Joined
1,504 Posts
I am still flattening chassis on the new DTMs using the boiling water method - but not in an oven, I just use a bowl and let it cool.

They would be the latest plastic compound, and seem to behave fine.

I do often find I need to repeat the process to achieve the desired result - using water only about 80C the second time

I would use at least a dozen magnets including a shim magnet under the guide holder, and some around it - basically anywhere hat can twist.

A clever modification by a guy in my club is to have a 3mm diameter "post" on his plate, which the guide holder sits on, to stop it twisting.

NSR chassis do not respond well to this method, as their plastic composition is completely different.
 

Registered
Joined
427 Posts
Beware of doing this with any models that have painted bodywork attached.
I flattened a Wynn's 962 and was horrified to find the nice purple paint on the tunnels had faded out. Short of buying another car, I'm screwed.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top