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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been doing a *lot* of chipping. (I've never used analogue; digital is why I'm here.) Almost all successful (on the bench). One includes a Ninco (Audie LMP) into which I fitted a Scalextric chip. I now see that the Ninco motor is rated at 20,000 RPM; it's fine over the 2 yards and lane change on my breakfast bar! From elsewhere I understand that the Scalextric chip is limited (a current/heat issue) to the region of 18,000 RPM. So - is my Ninco going to blow the chip when I run it properly (not possible for now)? Or put another way, how have others chipped these? A slot.it chip (with that awkward on-board IR LED; you can off-board them, I know - much thanks for help on that elsewhere -, but it's not a slick solution...) or a parallel pair of Scalextric chips (to defuse the current and heat), which I understand has been proof tested elsewhere? Or maybe (fingers crossed) the Ninco works just fine with the Scelxtric chip...
 

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Scorpius chip can handle 50k motors and is SSD compatible.
Parallel Scaley chips do not work properly for long periods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Injectorman - what is the pedigree of the "Scorpius chip", and from where can learn about it?
 

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Greg Gaub
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Do you want to be able to control the car, like the rest of your cars, with SSD controllers, or do you want to have to control your car with a special controller (the Scorpius one)? If the former, then the Scorpius chip is not the chip you're looking for.

If the latter, then you can find both the chip and controller (oh, and you'll want the dongle for firmware updates and such as well) from scorpiuswireless.com. You can learn all about Scorpius in the Scorpius forum and on the web site.

If you prefer the former, then you'll need an uprated Scalextric chip (GregK provides this service) or a slot.it brand SSD chip, which is designed to work with the high power motors as you've mentioned.

Note that one of your complaints about the slot.it chip, the "off-board" LED is also a requirement of the Scorpius chip.

As great as Scorpius is, it doesn't seem to be solution you're wanting, based primarily on your original post.

Also, that motor might be just fine with the stock Scalextric chip you've installed already. Just don't stall it or go piling on magnets. Most of us have found that higher power motors are fine with stock chips when used without traction magnets at a reasonable voltage.
 

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Mr Flippant thanks for your input but I think you misread the initial post. Tim has stated he finds the onboard LED awkward and fitting an LED on a fly lead and is not a slick solution.
The Scorpius chip has the best solution that is an LED on a flylead as standard and can be installed anywhere on the chassis as required. You stated it is a requirement with Scorpius but it comes as standard equipment.

Yes agree you do need the matching controller and dongle.

Rick
 

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Injectorman - what is the pedigree of the "Scorpius chip", and from where can learn about it?
Pedigree or ancestry? Developed in 2007 and released 2011. It has a lot of features etc but as Mr Flippant mentioned you will need the matching controller, dongle and any of the major race software programs. However the controller is state of the art and lap times will be reduced or your money refunded. If you only need one or two controllers it is quite affordable.

As Mr Flippant stated if you wish to use standard SSD controllers I cant help here but if you have been considering upgrading your controller it is an option for sure.

Rick
 

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With a bit of DIY you could use the new Scalextric DPR chip (Rev H), stripped out of its mount. That is a pukka SSD chip that you won't /can't destroy. You would have to unsolder the LED and add some wires though so not just plug and play...
 

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IIRC, Ninco motors are rev rated at something like 14.5 volts, you may well find that when run on Scaley digital, that the Ninco motor rated at 20k will only be running at 17-18k so the Scaley chip may cope just fine.

The other thing is that Scaley motors are well know for being variable in their rev outputs with some revving to 21k even, personally, I would give it a try but dont hold me responsible if you fry a chip!
 

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Most manufacturers only quote RPM not torque as it is easier to measure and yields bigger numbers .....
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Your options are, in ascending order of cheapness: ....... fit and SSD chip, fit an uprated SSD chip or fit an SP15B chip with a remote LED.

An uprated SSD chip costs the same as a repaired SSD chip which, in the UK, is cheaper than an SP15B ......
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to everyone for your input on this - very helpful. I am Mac based; in the PC-centric world of hobby-land I think any solution requiring separate software is probably a bad direction for me, so, for that and other reasons (and with no disrespect to the product), Scorpius is not my solution. I think I'll run with the chip as is, and see how it goes. And perhaps I'll PM the magical GregK that hear so much about...

Yes - I've noticed that the more valuable torque figure is missing from most motors (NSR is one exception), and many don't even give you the RPM. Bit of a dog's dinner really; ah well...

BTW - RikoRocket - that's interesting; does this mean that the DPR chip is in fact a different beast from the retro (F1 slimline) chip? It surprises me that they would develop two different versions...
 

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Greg Gaub
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The most recent version of the saloon DPR chip was designed so that it can handle hotter motors because Scalextric designed/produced cars specifically designed to be "hopped up" with tuning parts from companies like Slot.it. The cars with the "PCR" feature have shallow interiors and replacement chassis that can fit a slot.it motor pod and other high performance parts, and still have a DPR hatch for easy conversion to digital. They knew that if people did that, they'd pop the older DPR chips and have a huge customer service issue on their hands, so they made a chip that could handle faster/higher-torque motors. That chip is the most recent DPR chip. I think we're calling it Rev H, but I don't believe it has an official designation. The easy way to recognize it among others is the lack of the big "can" component that is present on all other Scalextric chips.
 

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It's too much current and/or heating that usually kills chips.
Unfortunately those are rather loosely related to motor rpm.
Unfortunately the rpm a motor actually does can be more than 20% different from the maker's rpm claims .
So experience that motor type xxxx does or doesn't blow a chip is worth a lot more than thinking that all motor rated at xx000 rpm will be put similar stress on the chip.
 

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Hi

current is the killer, motor rpm is a rough guide as torque is also a factor and the amount of magnet in the chassis.

personally in all my years of digital I've only ever blown 2 chips and these were dpr Scalex chips and it was when I chipped a Scalextric Lotus Cortina, drivers legs were pressing on the chip and as soon as I pulled the throttle smoke, thinking it was the chip I fitted another, same again except this time round the drivers lower appendages gave a clue as they had suffered burns, amputated below the knee and all good
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I never run above 13.8v and sand tyres very carefully, run without magnets and use stock motors, plenty have run 20k sans mag to good effect
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