SlotForum banner

1 - 20 of 121 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
I thought a chipping database for Scorpius similar to the SSD one on this forum might be handy. It would be nice to try and narrow things done a little bit maybe by slot car brand (open to suggestions) so fellow slotters don't have to wade through many pages to find a car they are looking for.

Anyway, thought I'd kick things off with a NSR Ford GT40.

There is a convenient hole in the cockpit, so I thought I'd stand the the capacitor up vertical so it sits inside the car. Not ideal for the detail guys but makes for an easy fit.

GT40_Chip_001.jpg

GT40_Chip_002.jpg

GT40_Chip_003.jpg
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Wheres the little ferrite man on the motor? Nice install.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Cam I think Profoxcq means the capacitor aross the motor terminals.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Thats actually a bad example of how NOT to have the antenna. (Sorry Cam)

Hey its all good, if you read this thread you would have learnt 2 very important aspects and thats what the forum is all about.
So to recap:
1)Capacitor and ferrite to go on motor terminals (as per any stabndard Scaley car for example)
2)Antenna should be clear of pcb, but ideally at 90 degrees to the board in the same plane as the board. A few pics will need to be taken. Vertical is not how it was tuned funnily enough. A hole in the car to allow antenna to poke through is not required, nor should be done. In some circumstances yiu dont always get a say in where the antenna goes.

Also wire to braid should be restored to factory install as this helps centre the guide automatically, handy on race night when you deslot, also makes for a better tuned car.

Rick
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Ok guys,
Heres a new Mosler I chipped just now.



Note:
Ferrite and capacitor on motor
Antenna clear of decoder
Earth wire attached to motor can (light blue wire)
Phototransistor hot glued in place. Hole accurately marked using vernier calipers.
Braid wires in position.
Motor wires reduced to fit nicely to motor can
Braids neat ie not touching
Decoder glued in place. Magnet moulding removed with dremel so decoder clears cockpit.



Close up of spare earth pads



Close up of optional (and recommended) earth wire to motor can.

Rick
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
The caps Ill put in the webshop. The ferrites cannot be sourced anywhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
The "ferrite man" complete kit is available here but quite expensive !

http://www.slotcarcentre.co.uk/acatalog/Ge...s.html#aFERRITE

If you still wonder what they are for, here is what I found on a scaley website : the purpose of those components is to prevent radio interference and also to soak up any power spikes that can corrupt or reprogram the chips settings.
Power spikes can occur when there is any break in electrical continuity e.g. crossing a lane changer, braids loose contact with rails on a bump etc...

In the case of Scorpius, it's purpose is to avoid any interference with its own wireless system I suppose and not with your TV set ! So if you don't use one and you have problems, you can add this to the list of problems origins to look at.

Rick, the explanation above doesn't detail what the specific role of each component is. So, what if we only install a capacitor (easily found in an electronic shop) and not the ferrite ?

Yup,

DDA
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Thanks guys .....
All Scalextric and SCX cars come with them so its only an issue if you are chipping a car without, say NSR and others. I have a large collection of Scaleys that I borrow from but thats not the ideal solution. 4.95 quid is a bit much, 3 for 5 quid would be more attractive, but hey at least you can get them. BriBri Im going to order a few to get a closer look, thanks.
DDA you need both to get protection, just one or the other wont suffice. The cap helps stops back emf spiking via wires which can reset the chip in the decoder, and the ferrite helps stops electromagnetic radiation which can affect the radio chip on the decoder. Just the capacitor alone is a lot better than nothing but you need BOTH. Earthing out the entire can covers your backside too because as motors wear they develop more problems.
You can get better protection yet again by having the earth wire in a rectangular shape, ie braid, which helps cancel out waves better than a cylindrical shape, ie normal wire, but so far not needed it. As you can see its a bit of a science getting it just right.
Rick
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Hi Guys,
Cross sectional view of sensor into car chassis.



Tip: Make the 3mm mm hole a friction fit on the transistor, that way you dont have to hold the transistor still and in perfect alignment while the glue cools. Just fit into hole and glue. Use minimal glue. Try squeezing the hot glue onto a piece of paper and using a nail to transfer just the correct amount, and to the right place. Practice on old car first. The hotglue will peel perfectly away from the transistor leaving it looking like new, ready for its next install.

DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE ....EVER!
Rick
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Its a 103 type. Cheap and plentiful. Ill get a part number,.
 

·
David Taylor
Joined
·
271 Posts
Rick,

Do you reckon you could track both the ferrite and the capacitor down to be a one stop shop and supply in relative bulk. There migh have been a couple of us that thought 'what do these useless bits do? - oh nothing! Bin then ...when hard soldering ninco chips etc (Ninco ...RIP)

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
Any one out there who knows, how to get them in Germany?

I do not even know the German name of ferrite man.

Any help appreciated.

Regards,
Diegu

Edit:
Found some "Ferrit Doppellochkern". For which frequency should they be?
They are available fom 1 - 60 MHz and 60 - 300 MHz
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
recommend the scalextric ones for now of the varoius slot car webshops.
Capacitor is the 103 type.
 
1 - 20 of 121 Posts
Top