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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had experience scanning model bodies for 3D printing of repops?

There are a number of informative YouTube videos on this seemingly cost effective scanning tool.
 

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What MrFlippant said, but also:
According to the latest Apple presentation, 3D scanning will be built-in to the upcoming iOS 15. The LIDAR scanner in some iDevices should make the process dramatically more effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I want to scan primer painted hard bodies with the windows installed,

I could then print the bodies with a clear UV curable resin on an Elegoo Mars SLA printer (which is getting cheaper every day) to get a clear finished product. Windows can then be masked/cut out as needed for painting,
 

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Greg Gaub
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The model won't be smooth enough, unless you want glass the looks like crystal rather than glass. At the very least, you'll need to do some post processing of the model to smooth out the facets in some way. If you're prepared to do that, then maybe a scan would be a good starting point.

As for printing in clear resin in order to have clear windows... my experience (supported by many similar experiences of others in an Elegoo group I'm in on Facebook), clear resin is rarely clear when fully cured. I have some clear resin from Siraya Tec (sp?). When it comes out of the printer, it looks wonderful! Like a blown glass figuring or something. I was STOKED when I saw it. But, it was still covered with uncured resin, so I had to clean it up to remove liquid resin. After enough cleaning, it wasn't quite as pretty, but it was passable... but sticky. It needs the final cure.. but as it fully cures, it gets cloudy... frosty... which can be polished up if the shape is good for that. Fortunately a windshield would be... except by the time the print is cured enough to no longer be sticky, it's yellowed considerably, and the end result is a yellow, cloudy, ugly lump of cured resin where once was a beautiful glass-like figure. :(

The groups are full of people wanting that clear look, and getting cloudy, off color results after curing enough to be safe to touch with bare hands. Doesn't seem to matter what the brand or type of resin is, either. Translucent colored stuff doesn't seem to be bothered by the yellowing, but it takes some additional processing (polishing) to make it anything like glass.

In short, I don't think the scanners or printers are quite ready for what you want to do, at least not without a good amount of work in processing the model and the print.

But, printing a form for a vacuum forming machine would be much easier. Then print the body without glass, and use vac formed glass. :)

And now, I suspect someone will post some photos of exactly what you want to do, and how they accomplished it on their home printer. ;-)
 

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BTW it won't be possible to scan the clear windows due to the lack of contrast and reflections. It wil be nexcessary to spray the windows to make the surface matte and opaque.
Best regards
Thomas
 

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I agree with Greg clear resin looks just like glass when still on the build plate but as soon as you wash it it starts to cloud up and it gets worse as you cure it. I have used a clear plant based resin and washing with IPA or soapy water makes no difference. I also found that the resin got quite brittle after it was cured, could have been over cured but it seemed to happen on all the clear prints I have tried. Also thickness of the print doesn't seem to make a difference as the first clear test print I did was a flat sheet to use as a building window and I kept it quite thin.

As far as I can see most of the 3D scanners available at the moment are designed for scanning solid objects, ok for figures, tool boxes and other such objects but no good for a hollow object. By the time you have hollowed the object out and got the wall thickness sorted out I would think its just as easy to design from scratch. Having said that I bought a XYZ 3D scanner, which I have, for the time being at least, given up on, with the idea of scanning 1/43rd scale diecast models and up scaling to 1/32nd scale and my idea was that once I had the scan I could generate a slightly under scale body which I would place inside the scale body and subtract this to leave a shell. Never got the chance to see if it would work as I could never get a good scan although one of these days I will set up all my photographic studio lights and have another try keeping the scanner clamped to a stand and have the object on a motorised turntable. However as most bodies I want at the moment are available commercially or as downloads the scanner will probably stay in the box or got sold on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replies guys.
I have acquired a small stock of a specialty liquid styrene monomer based UV curable resin that is used especially to achieve a final crystal clear protective coat in specialty products manufacture.
Although it was not designed for printinidea is to use this specialty resin in a SLA printer.
I bought it to quick cast small model parts parts. It cures crystal clear in the sun. I then paint it as needed.
Of course, the proof is getting the scanner and printer to test this.
If any one already has a SLA printer I would be happy to send a liter of the resin to test.
 
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