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The second version of my permanent track ultimately proved unsatisfactory to me because the plastic track didn't provide a suitable surface for tuning my cars for club racing on routed wood tracks:
The basic layout seemed to work very well in the space I had available. I liked the two levels, and it divides well into four "zones" to give opportunities for scenery. However I didn't like the left-hand "finger" as it was hard to see when two people were racing at the same time, so I amended the layout:
I wanted to approximate the feel of the Rockingham Slot Car Club's 1/32 scale track as much as possible, so I decided to use non-magnetic braid and the same track paint as we use at Rockingham. But I didn't want the track to feel too geometrical, like plastic track sections or by routing with continuous radius curves, so to enable me to take a more freehand approach in some sections I ordered the routing kit from Luf Luffenham:
So, with the basic design committed to, I gritted my teeth and ripped up the old track:
I'm generally hopeless with practical things that need some technical skill, and so I must give credit to those who have given me the confidence to start. SF member richardtheforth, sold me a good router at an excellent price, clubmate John Roche loaned me a second router, which enabled me to rout the gains for the braid without having to keep changing router settings, and I watched club mates and skilled engineers Mick Kerr and Mike Thomson routing new sections for the Rockingham scale track.
But even with their support this has taken me an awfully long time...
Firstly I modified the base boards and then bought the mdf, pre-cut from 8x4 to fit the track sections and then roughly drew the layout on the boards so I could better visualise what I wanted to achieve:
Part two of the story soon...

The basic layout seemed to work very well in the space I had available. I liked the two levels, and it divides well into four "zones" to give opportunities for scenery. However I didn't like the left-hand "finger" as it was hard to see when two people were racing at the same time, so I amended the layout:

I wanted to approximate the feel of the Rockingham Slot Car Club's 1/32 scale track as much as possible, so I decided to use non-magnetic braid and the same track paint as we use at Rockingham. But I didn't want the track to feel too geometrical, like plastic track sections or by routing with continuous radius curves, so to enable me to take a more freehand approach in some sections I ordered the routing kit from Luf Luffenham:

So, with the basic design committed to, I gritted my teeth and ripped up the old track:

I'm generally hopeless with practical things that need some technical skill, and so I must give credit to those who have given me the confidence to start. SF member richardtheforth, sold me a good router at an excellent price, clubmate John Roche loaned me a second router, which enabled me to rout the gains for the braid without having to keep changing router settings, and I watched club mates and skilled engineers Mick Kerr and Mike Thomson routing new sections for the Rockingham scale track.
But even with their support this has taken me an awfully long time...
Firstly I modified the base boards and then bought the mdf, pre-cut from 8x4 to fit the track sections and then roughly drew the layout on the boards so I could better visualise what I wanted to achieve:

Part two of the story soon...