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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of doing a custom Fly Lister Storm. I used Tamiya paint and put on the water slide decals last night. How long do I need to wait until its safe to spray the Tamiya clear on it? I have heard some people had problem of the decals getting ruined when they put on the clear coat.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Hi Lee,

I've got to say that after I ruined a Top Slot kit one time I've not used Tamiya clearcoat on top of decals since then (I always using Johnsons Klear these days). However that could also have been due to my eagerness to get the model finished off and I've adopted a much stricter routine now:

After applying the decals I normally leave a shell somewhere warm and dry overnight (i.e. the airing cupboard!). The next day I'll give it a gentle wash all over in warm water to remove any decal adhesive from the surface. Give it another day to dry out again in the airing cupboard and then start with the clearcoat.

I've not had any problems since trying this.

Paul
 

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Hi

I have had problems over the years with various clear coats dislikeing various paints and decals. Once had a nighmere on doing a Marconi car, last day I could send it, only to find that the model master top coat had decided to attack the Model master PAINTS.

Why fuss. I saw you are in the U.S. "Future" floor "was" is a clear acrylic gloss coat and like most acrylics is intert with EVERYTHING. sprays through my ink tip. cleans up with water.

Fate
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have heard of using a floor wax for a clear coat, but to be honest I dont understand how it works. Doesnt it come out as a liquid when you put it on? What do you use to spray this stuff, airbrush?

Sorry for all the questions but like I said I dont understand how you would use floor polish as a clear coat. Could somebody please explain this?
Thanks
 

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Mr. Lister, it's the concept of a floor polish on a car that I too found hard to comprehend - I thought I was being wound up.

But it is true.

It is a clear polish designed to protect floors from your muddy boots, so it does a pretty good job of protecting your wagons too.

Now most cars I buy I give a coat or three to. And I only paint the stuff on with a good quality soft brush. Don't work it too hard because it is fast drying and if you aren't careful you will quickly have tacky spots that don't look so hot. Similarly, give each coat a good hour or so to dry.

I thought I read somewhere once that it yellowed white paint but I've not seen that...yet.
 

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Hi Astro,

I use a 1/2" brush and just wash it out in warm water - I've been using the same brush for about a dozen cars with no ill effect.

When brushing it on you have to do it quite carefully otherwise it tends to bubble - if I do get any bubbles I quickly dab at them with the edge of a tissue to soak them up. It's self levelling so you can apply it quite thickly and just soak up the drips on the edge of the shell with a bit of tissue.

I normally give 4 - 5 coats with about 45 minutes - hour inbetween to dry....

Paul
 

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Alan Tadd
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Ditto Guys.

I've used it on my last ten project cars. Three coats max, 1 hour between coats and apply thickly with a wide brush. Wash out brush in water.

Great finish and no signs of yellowing, harmless to a variety of decal types, DMC, patto's MRRC and homemade.

Regards

Alan
 

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I can recall who said it, but I'm sure I've heard of someone dipping the bodyshell into a container full of Johnson's Klear and letting it drip dry whilst soaking up the major drops


Maybe it's an urban legend?

I too have recently borrowed some Klear (thanks GRAH1
) and it works great on my Policar Ferrari 355 bodyshell (Coca Cola), applied with a reasonably large brush. Like most acrylic paints, Klear can be washed off with water until it starts to dry. In fact the directions on the bottle suggest applying it to your floor using a damp cloth


Whatever size of bottle it should last you ages, unless it dries out.


Mark.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Diff, no urban legend! Dipping the whole body has been popular in the HO world for some time. But I think the larger size of 1/32 cars may make this more awkward - larger containers and more wasted acrylic - don't try to reuse it, as it begins to cure (and chemically alters) as soon as it hits the air.

As others have said, a soft brush, say 1/2" wide, allows a quick coating to be laid on. Put it on fairly heavy, and blot at the edges with tissue where it runs off. Use high-quality artists brushes for application and there will be no marks in the surface. Work quickly - neatness doesn't count since the product is self-levelling and you can blot excess at the edges very easily with tissue, but it sets rapidly so you can't waste time. Wash brushes immediately with soap and water - they will last a long time.

Multiple coats are advised. Wait one hour or more between coats but make sure the body remains clean from dust. A blemish in one coat (brush mark, etc., but not dust or grit) will usually disappear in a subsequent coat. Let body sit for 24 hours after final coat before using for best protection.

And DON'T let your wife know that you understand this product!
 

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Simon Moss (Undisputed #1 Racer Fan)
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I bought some Johnsons Klear last weekend from my local Waitrose, but have still to use it yet. I also bought the March edition of Fine Scale Modeler recently which has an article on using the stuff.

M
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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I've had success with Tamiya clear coat by spraying a few light dusting coats on the decals and body then following up with several medium coats. The light dusting coats will cover the decals but won't degrade them (I use Detail Master decal paper that has been printed in a laser copier).

I even used this method to spray directly on the decal sheets to protect the printing, which works pretty well.

YMMV
Greenman62
 

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Hi

It is a misnomer to call what we use "floor wax" it is not a wax of any sort!

It is your wife spreading a clear acrylic paint on the floor.
Or you on the car body.

With the "proper" top coats, I got tired of trying to mentally keep track of which combinations of paint and decals needed which approach, which could be sprayed, which had to be "dusted" and so on. With the floor acrylic, I just go SPRAY and done. No fuss.

Fate
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the helpful comments and explaining the "floor wax" method to me. Now it is a bit clearer and I understand how to do it now. I will give it a try and see how I like it in the future.
 
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