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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, well i'm currently on my second 6 car powerbase, the first i bought from jadlam and it had a fault
that the LED screen connector would'nt click into place within the powerbase, this caused it to work loose and eventually go off..
now its been replaced, and as ive relaid my track due to having learnt on here to crimp all the connections of the track, ive litterally just put it all back on, and guess what, the connector does click into place "just about" woohoo, but all i get is the start build 00085 or whatever it says, then boot, then i get a long row of SAFE aghhhhhh the pit lane game does not come on either... i dont get this problem with the 4 car powerbase, anyone got any ideas as i'm really close to smashing it all up, and my past experience shows i most probably will....thanks
 

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Living the Life!
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The obvious thing to do is just power up the APB on it's own without anything connected to it. If that works then you probably have foreign objects shorting out the track, if this is the case then give it a jolly good dysoning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok i'll try that thanks, but the track is super clean as ive just finished crimping it all and i did that and checked everything while i was doing them ;-( the 4 car base works fine.....
the last time this kind of thing happened all be it briefly was when my lane change had a part come off inside, but it would still run then go safe, then run again...this time its giving me squat, i wonder if the vac is lifting this little piece of plastic up within the lane change, but then, that would'nt short it realistically, only stopping the lane from changing, hmnnnnn
ok gonna try it on its own....brb
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
right, now i'm confused, the powerbase does work fine, thankyou greg.. but all my track is new and super clean or so i thought, anyways, so i tried the pitlane game onto it, and that powered up fine, does this mean i have to try each and every individual piece of track atatched to the pb to find the offending piece ? i guess i can break the track down into smaller sections first and try it that way, or is there an easier way ie regarding a power reading or something ? i dont have any gadgets so im guessing not, thanks for the advice in advance
 

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The 4 PB has very little electronics in it to speak of so I'm not surprised that it worked.

It is easiest to check the track in sections ....... good hunting!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i just knew you were gonna say that, the joys of scalextric huh
i'd just got the track down snug to, it just shows that you have to check new unused track just as much
lesson learnt and logged
thanks again greg
 

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G'day again PINHEAD69,
I know this may sound like a silly question but when you put all your power taps in place did you make sure that they were all wired to each individual rail and not crossed. I know that this should make no difference running in Digital mode but if you are going to run in analogue mode this will cause a problem if the lane wiring is not seperate. Your correct about new track also being not that well crimped, I had a problem with my R4 curves when I purchased them brand new,a couple of connecting lugs were that loose they just didn't perform as a brand new item should. It can get to you when these things happen and I for one also get peeved off but usually in the end I have to have a laugh because it is something so simple that you could kick yourself. I occasionally have a problem when entering the pits through the pit lane changer which puts my APB into safe mode, I put this down to the braids being messy under the car but I don't think so, I like good contact.
Good luck
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hi matt, yeah all my boosters are fine, its not a daft question as people do mess up
so its good to ask..especially as i am a newb, i know its something completely stupid i agree, as ive checked all the teckie type stuff over and over to the state of needing a pommy shower lmao....
i will find it, its just a real ball ache as ive just relaid it all hahaha, thats more the reason i was up in arms, but hey once its done, its done right , i guess everyone's been there, my turn, bet it will be something daft like a strand of wire wool lodged in a lane change section that my sucky sucky could'nt get at....
thanks for your reply dude...........
 

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Greg Gaub
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My pit lane entry flipper used to touch both rails. The tip would touch the rail it was against, like it was supposed to, but also the BACK of the flipper, the wide end, would touch the other rail, creating an authentic short across the rails. One I realized what was happening, it was easy to fix it by forcing that rail away from the rear of the flipper. Maybe you've got a flipper somewhere doing the same thing?
 

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Prof I T
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hi
are you running the pb in analouge mode with stamdard clc sectionss.????
 

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Alfie Noakes
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HI Pinhead, we all feel your pain. See it as a right of passage, a test of your commitment.
It gets easier though. Either that, or you just get used to it, not sure which.

Cause the lights are shining bright, you and I've got what it takes to make it
We won't fake it, oh never break it, cause I can't take it...

... and so forth. Is this helping..?


Cheers,
Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for all your replies, right i tried looking for the problem today
even a bigger can of worms than previously thought, well to me it is anyway being a newb, im sure my findings will
trigger one of you to know what it is....
firstly my powerbase is always showing in analouge mode, if i change it to digital then carry on with other options, when i go back its analouge again hmnnnn why does'nt it stay where ive put it... anyways, the powerbase goes into safe mode any time i connect ANY of the lane changers, i tried them all individually, the standard track pieces are fine, but as soon as a lane change goes on, and i have 4, i get a quick buzz sound sometimes, a beep, then it goes into safe mode... aghhhhhh,
the pitlane on the other hand does work, now thats a lane change, what the hell....
this is my second pb and its never run correctly yet, the first did 90% of the time, but had an issue with the LED connection not locking into the pb but thats all... my man bits are starting to feel small
any idea's or ways to try it ?
 

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Alfie Noakes
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When you go to 'platform' then down to digital/analogue, after selecting digital do you press enter?

I think the Curve lane changes (CLC) will short circuit in analogue mode.
The APB should stay in the same platform (digital or analogue) as when you turned it off.
Cheers,
Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
oh and richard, no that song dont help lmao, but thanks for trying
this one does at the moment though
that does'nt mean i want to turn this into a musical thread mind ;-)
back to my pain
 

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1 hp Trabant is not my real car
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Well, richard4th, Pinhead is only talking of trashing his powerbase..so the Cobain solution is a bit drastic at this stage


I have to admit that this kind of post pushes my thoughts of trying digital back into the closet.
(Cue entry of digitalosi from stage left
)

Cheers,
Tom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yeah rich i do press enter, but i will try it all again later
and Isetta
dont let this put you off, its most probably me being a spaz
its ace when it flies, gonna blast my bass for a bit then get back on it ;-)
 

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Alfie Noakes
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QUOTE (PINHEAD69 @ 31 Aug 2011, 14:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>that does'nt mean i want to turn this into a musical thread mind ;-)

OK, better not add this then:

 

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Safe Mode

I had an APB with allways Safemode when I put curve with lanechange in the track. That was a fault of the APB. I got a new one after 3 1/2 months of scalex Service Germany. I think your APB have a fault. Give it back.

regards Reiner
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thanks reiner, that kinda sucks then as its a replacement of a previously faulty pb, guess jadlam will remember me for sure. having to give a 2nd one back within a few weeks, is there anyone from jadlam on here as they never answer the phone, it sucks
 
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