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174 Posts

I'm sorry but I don't write in very good english and I used Google translate for my text.

Well, I'll try to give you a retrospective of the manufacturing of my track in 1/32 scale that began in February 2007. The post may be a little long, but it's necessary


Why its hard design so long? Well, I like to take my time. I manufacture of my track when I need to be quiet. The other reason it's at that time I was manager of my enterprise and I had not got of free time :).

Still, little by little, the ideas I had in my head at the beginning of this project go to be realized to fruition , with patience, time, but also money (especially for the acquisition of machine tools) .

When ideas come to me, I must put this on the paper where they should be created because they are present in my mind not to forget. That's why I can sometimes scatter me and stop the current fabrication. I'm pretty fussy about my achievements. When I want to make a few things, I put every effort to make it as realistic as possible for meet my requirements.

The track

This project was a first for me and as you go the see, there were some rookie mistakes that I tried and that I'm still trying to adjust (for example my light ramps).

Originally, I played to slot for fun, from time to time with a plastic track cheap (Artin). Then, I wanted to acquire a Ninco and Carrera track, but my problem was the space in my home, because at that time, whether in my office where the children's room, I hadn't enough space.

So I have had a simple idea (apparently). Why not create a folding slot track in wooden that I could take it everywhere with me and store anywhere?

And that's how it all began. The idea was there, but how to implement it?

I needed a solid support and my coffee table at the time was fine. My wife has generously agreed this use. I could start my project.

As I wanted a beautiful and realistic decoration removable, I always had in mind this given to each of my designs. With imagination and a good stroke of a pen we get to make beautiful things :-D.

Come on, let's go to the pictures.

The original plans

Drawing of the track on the wooden board

Drawing the first wooden board...

...then on the second wooden board...

...and assembling the two wooden boards.

Drawing of two others wooden boards.

Cutting of batten of support and of the feet...

...then assembled.

The mounted assembly...

...and tidy. :-D

It is clean, no? ;-)

Meanwhile, I bought with materials, painting and other equipment,

Then, making security walls that have for purpose of stiffening the track and of ensure a perfect alignment of the wooden boards between these while hiding the hinges.

Manufacturing of walls

The straight walls...

...and of the curve wall.

Checking space compared to cars

First change of the tracing when I saw that the cars comes in contact when these come to them location in pit lane.

First version of security walls

After checking, the impact zones appeared.

Final version of the walls after changing 65% of the tracing of the track.

And finally, disappearance of the first "S"

New acquisition of router for the slots.

I have attempting the manufacturing of vibrators in relief for more of realism for piloting but I have abandoned because of the track who wasn't wide enough and who could do leave the car of the slots.

It's a regret because it was a good start. But hey, I have don't wanted to delay me :).

Routing slots.

After a few setbacks due to a bur of first prize...

...I ended up buying a carbide bur, I repaired the slots with SINTOBOIS and I finished the slots.

Then I invested in a drill press. Then I used the pulp finishing for filling the holes and regularized the joints between the wooden boards for a perfect alignment.

Test of the manufacturing of the future security grid and of laying gravel with sand Loire.

To be continued...

174 Posts
Electronic management case of track.

Here are the first components listed below of case of electronic management for the track that will handle the lighting:

- 1 Case Sextuor
- 1 Package of 100 carbon resistors 470 Ohm
- 1 Power UPA 2000 A - 12 V
- 2 Electronic test boards
- 1 switch 10 A
- 1 Sheet 14 male "Centronic" Connectors
- 3 Sheets 36 "Centronic" male connectors
- 1 socket "Centronic" 14 connectors
- 3 sockets 36 "Centronic" connectors
- 4 Screw kit for base "Centronic"

Assembling of the components and of the case

Taking a electronic test board

Prepare of location connectic in isolating

Then, prepare components. Here the resistors

Set up resistors on the card slots during the preparation of electronic test boards

Weld the resistors

For trouble-free solder, I used:
- A soldering iron of little power.
- A desoldering pump with teflon cap.
- A coil wire diameter of 1 mm tin

Then I soldered everything together (non-polarized) with the same color coded in the same direction by preheating the wafer and lug with iron for a short time, then I applied the tin wire. We need to see the tin melt and position himself around the leg. And finally I pulled the wire and immediately after iron.

Cut which exceeds

Finally, I am very satisfied, everything is welded and aligned. So, I test the circuit with my voltmeter which also measures Ohms. Result, each resistor is independent and the values range between 460 and 470.

Electronic test boards once all resistances welded

Preparing connection cables

Separating the cables

Sorting the cables

Stripping the cables

The cables sorted and stripped

Weld of cables

The electronic test boards with every cable soldering

The cables of plain color are the phases and of color and white are the neutral (I think I could to connect the neutrals together for reduce the number of cable.)

Mounting plugs female "Centronic" on the case

Welding of cables to plugs

The case is ended

Mounting of the taken "Centronic"

To avoid melting the plastic while I weld connectors at the cables, I must first files a little tin on all connectors

Positionning of the plug in a vise or like me in support of the soldering iron.

Solder the wires one after the other.

For easy identification, I placed the neutral (white / color) in down and phases (color) in the top.

The welding completed.

Before refitting the plug and set permanently. I tested insulation of welds of peers with a tensionmètre.

It's positioned the plug, and protection

Then, assemble all

The plug is finished and assembly

To be continued...

WRP World Champ 2015/2016
4,367 Posts
A rather ingenious build you have there Sh1v3r, some good ideas that I have never seen used before. I look forward to following your story.

I was down your way a few weeks back, spending a night in both Saumur and Parthenay. A lovely part of the world. We also have a forum member who lives in Le Mans, so only an hour or so away from you.

One of the pictures had a great phrase in it, I shall be annoying other racers at our club by using it at every opportunity, it just sounds so good "zone de risque de frottement pour les vehicules". I'm sure the other racers will start shouting at me when I continuosly say it.

174 Posts


Light ramps 1st version


Manufacture of light ramps

Positioning of tubes.

Solder with a soldering torch.

A poste welding oxy acetylene (OA) is really necessary for its implementation because the solder is not terrible even after the filing of the welds.

So I abandoned the manufacture of light ramps at this level to resume thereafter. My initial solution, at the time, wasn't quite realistic and the spotlights were fixe and did not allow me to optimize the track lighting.

Preparing of the track surface

For a very good grip of the paint, I sanded in 3 steps.

- First step with discs abrasive paper "80".
- 2nd step with discs of "120"
- and to finish with disc "200."

After sanding the track, I'm attacked me sanding of the slots to fine sandpaper. A time the track well sanded, a large dedust was done with the vacuum to the maximum power.

Primer layer and track redrawing.

Colorizing of slots.

Sanding of the track surface.

The coating of the track .

Masking for the painting of the coating of the track.

Searching the good dyeing track surface.

Here are the color components used:

Hammerite paint "Direct to Rust" Black Mat Ironwork + Sand Burning: 222 Grs
Mr Bricolage lacquer paint Special Iron Rust Bright White 4100: 110 Grs

First layer.

Second layer.


After a few setbacks due to the use of white spirit with Hammerite when applying the second layer, which musn't absolutely do, I managed to get a perfect coating with good tint the third layer.

Grass areas

I didn't know at the time that the flocking with the using the Grassinator and its rendering very realistic. So I opted for a mat grass color "summer" purchased from Conrad.

Refer to HB pencil on the edge of the white sheet covering (I do not have layer)

Cut out the template

Attach the template the back of the grass mat (note orientation)

Cut the grass carpet along the edges of the template

Panels distance scale 1/32:


- 1 box of matches
- Photo Paper 10 x 15 or A4
- Double-sided tape
- Photo Printer
- 1 copy of the Decree 2006-554 of 16 May 2006 FFSA,, to prescribed dimensions.


Reduce the size, scale 1/32, then using a photo editing software such as Photoshop, create a new document to the desired dimensions by adding 0.5 cm to 1 cm for the lost during the cutting edges and at least 300 DPI to avoid pixelated images and colorimetry CMYN not RGB color closer to real color. Once the image is consistent with the result wanted, you can print on photo paper (better color rendering)

Printing of the panels

Cutting of the panels R°/V°

Cutting of the matches

Pasting with the double-sided on the back of the front R°/V°

Positionning of the first panel face on the structure
(note orientation relative to its location on the track)

Positioning of the other side of the panel

And now, more than paint in matt black or gray metal structure;) .

White markings and curbs

Masking of the surface

Masking final

After the first layer of white

And some the staging with cars

Masking of the vibrators

Second layer of red on the vibrators

Once dry ...

... with the walls.

Second green layer on the upper part of vibrators and a third layer of matte varnish on all vibrators

The needles.

Needles in Plexiglas.

I think eventually, I'll redo the needles in steel or copper because the power failure is too high and the cars stop if they do not go fast enough.

The grass (Continued)

Laying of the grass

Final rendering of grass

To be continued...

174 Posts
Thanks for your comment


Copper tape

Sanding of the slots

Drilling the holes for the installation of nails bridging

This choice was a mistake because too visible when I've realized it was too late, I did not want to redo everything.

Vitrification of slots

This treatment increases the resistance to abrasion of car slots and adhesion of copper tape to the track.

Installation of the copper tape

Welding of copper tape with nails bridging

Result, avoid welding on the track, it's ugly :

We are in March 2008, after one year of construction, the track works.

Vidéo of the first tests, Attention loading can be long!

I tried creating a tires wall from cork that I finally gave up because not to scale and rigid. The cars hits inside the walls in the corners which presents too great a risk of deterioration for the cars.

Shortly after, I came across walls more realistic tires on the site, I will invest in this product soon ...


Schematic wooden board mounted under the track

This wooden cockpit board will allow me to place, keyboard, mouse, joysticks and of connect different buttons (activation of the needles back in the pits, and other not yet established ....)

- a wooden battens 30 x 10 mm
- a wooden battens 10 x 10 mm
- a corner curves 27 x 27 mm planed
- A wooden board in Medium of 3 mm (main support) and 9 mm (Mouse Pad)
- 2 brackets folded for matien keyboard
- Felted fabrics yellow (mouse pad)

Manufacturing wooden cockpit board

Pad "artisanal" mouse incorporating a location transort for mouse.

Security Grills

cutting of the pillars, first version

Formatting with a template, a vise and hammer.

I thought abandoned these for of the more realistic pillars that I also found out on, I will invest also in this product ...

The grills of fence of the Gray metal color

This painting no longer exists in 2013, I must now try to find an alternative with this painting.

An aside, it's the end of markings on the track

Realistic treatment of the track

Tire tracks, the first test

The traces were too dark and too many. After several opinions, I so reviewed my copy and here the work now.

Firstly aging of the track

Tire tracks, modified and finished

In parallel, I also drawing sketches and plans for the futurs gateway and stands.


The sketches

The bridge Plans

Early plans which are still stands actual today

Version finalized and colorized with light effects

The peculiarity of the stands apart from the fact that it is removable, is that it is only a facade. Indeed, the cockpit is behind, so I have no depth.

Skating of the walls security

After a careful and a preparartion skating.

For the moment, you can see this tutorial in french only here. I'm sorry but I will remake a new tutorial on this forum later.

To be continued...

174 Posts

Now, the tags (j12) used on the track "24 Hours of Le Mans"

After seeing these tags, some enthusiasts have asked me to manufacture for them, so they are for sale and therefore will not be detailed in their realization

The finished traffic cones

We are in September 2010

The more I advance in manufacturing of my lighting ramps, the more I realize that my four lighting ramps should be located outside of the track.

So I worked on future extensions I had to make after the completion of my stands. And here's what it gave:

First sketches with the track drawn freehand:

Then the implementation colorized with the track:

(sorry but I could not take a full view of my track. So with the photo retouching, there is slightly distorted in some places)

And finally, the various extensions associated to the change that I need to bring to my track:

Apart from the implementation of tribunes, of rights fences, garbage cans and my lighting ramps, all the rest is likely to be changed in the future. This is to give me a good idea of implantation.

As of today, these extensions will not see the day, because in the meantime I moved and I have more space in the room where the track was installed. But I keep this project in case

I have so purchase of the wooden boards in Medium of 5 mm for the manufacture of extensions and resumption of production of lighting ramps.

Components received:

Countersunk screws, nuts and washers 2 mm for fixing the lighting spots on the mounting bracket and of 3 mm for created of the clamps for attach the brackets on the pylons. But today, it's possible that I have found a alternative solution. But schutt!!!! it's a surprise lol .

Machining of the washers which serve as mounting plates to the pylons of lighting ramps.

Cutting of "U" carré en aluminium which will serve support of spotlights.

Manufacture of a drilling template

Start of drilling of the supports of spotlights (for the passage of cables ducts and for the brackets attaching)

End of drilling.

Here is the assembly of two future spotlights

I have bought my future complete connectors (male and female) Mini DIN 8-pin to connect my future lighting ramps.

I struggled to find at a reasonable price, but there it is

The plug fits perfectly in the future pylon ...

... and here assembly.

This is perfect for the continuation

Finishing of the spotlights, drilling, deburr, grinding and matt varnish for a matt brushed aluminum effect ...

...and tracing of the next brackets of the spotlights.

The cut of brackets of the spotlights.

Beginning of machining of brackets, sanding and bonding of the fastening screws.

At the beginning, for to machine my parts quickly, I used my sander. But it was a disaster because of their size (broken or twisted parts). So, I finished with a metal file and abrasive papers. it's long time, the cost I go slower than I had planned. But the result should the height of the work done

Internal filing ...

...external the of brackets for the spotlights.

It's over. Pfiou!!!

It took me between 30 and 45 minutes of filing by brackets. When you know that there are 52, you will understand why it was long and the small "Phew" relief: lol:.

I so repaired the ten brackets that had broken in half with glue Repar Ex (those with the screws already installed), I highly recommend this glue. In addition to being stronger than the "Glue 3", it does not trace the transparent plastic.

I start the sanding with sandpaper 80 always get brushed.

To be continued...

174 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Very big break two years
. We are in September 2013.

The track has suffered a bit (with my last move but nothing bad it is operational again. Yes:.

The lighting is at new suspend for the time
. I did a installation test but the spot varnish on black plastic (which are chair leg) blistered during assembly. So I will have to assembled all the lighting ramps, and then put the varnish once the spotlights finally settled.

So, the last program is the end of clearances gravel and assembly of tire walls crude and left unpainted as planned. I think that is it best result

Here tutorial to make a realistic gravel clearances.

First of all equipment and materials used:

- Old sieves with different hole diameters for each.
- Containers
- A Bag
- From wood glue
- Different brush
- 1 Spray
- 1 screwdriver
- Sand
- Water
- The masking tape
- Newspapers or sheets of any paper
- From parchment paper
- The walls of tires in Slot Tracks Scenics I let the final gross (

It begins by sifting sand successively with different sieves of largest to the smallest for have uniform materials:

Once sifted, you get 4 types of sand of different diameters:

I opted for a medium grain.

Then I prepared the diluted glue (Proportion: 50% glue - 50% water) and once well mixed, I filled the spray bottle with the mixture.

Then, implementation of the parchment paper to protect the walls which must remain removable:

The rest of the track is protected with masking tape and sheets:

I sanded slightly the surface area where the sand is to be bonded.
Then I glued with wood glue the previously sanded area.
Then I have deposited and spreaded the gravel over the glued area.
And I have unified the gravel surface with my hand (You can used a rule) after, I have applied the imprint of tires in the gravel:

I vaporized a good layer of the mixture (water + glue) on the surface. A white veil must appear.

I removed the protections, it is clean:

Is allowed to dry for 24 hours and I removed then the parchment paper and that is it:

The assembly of tires walls

For assembled the tires walls, I stuck each the tires walls other together and only on the fake concrete wall, not on gravel with glue REPAIR-EX (

And that's it! :

With traffic cones:

Before noon yesterday

I received a small gift for my son:

It was just crazy. result:

Well, Dad can played to your track

he is promises

Well, I finished the bend which was sec the tonight

With the traffic cones:

And for your viewing pleasure, of small stagings

That was not easy, two day to summarize everything;) but I got there.

See you soon for following.

850 Posts

Seeing work such as yours is an inspiration for me to do more.
I like what I've done with my Scalextric Classic Track but your efforts make mine look quite basic

As my old school reports used to say..."Nik could do better if he applied himself."

Where's the wife?...HONEY I NEED A BIGGER SHED!


174 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hello to you all,

Thank you for your comments

Here the progress of this Sunday.

The program:

- End of clearances of gravel,
- Creating a area dedicated to the lighting pylon in exit of the garages,
- End of the tires walls,
- Creation of a shock absorber,
- Start to fixing walls to reinforce the different trays.

This is partly for the photos

End of clearances of gravel

Bends 5 and 6 outside

Changing the gravel area within 5th bend...



End of inside of the 3rd bend ...

By late morning, when I went as a family, I noticed a parking area parking:

This gave me ideas for my track and the area dedicated to the lighting pylon in exit of the garages that I go to created

Creation of the area in output of stands

Materials used:
- The same materials used for the gravel areas.
- Very fine sand,
- A fine brush
- A car in 1/32 scale.

After using the same technique as for the gravel areas, I created brands with the car and of the accented the marks with the small brush after 1 to 2 hours of drying.

Just after the tire marks, I accented the realism by adding some gravel, inspired by the photo taken yesterday morning and I created the base "concrete" to host the future of pylon lighting.

End of the tires walls

As I have not used all the walls of tires, so I create a shock absorber (an idea inspired by a sloteur
) to the entrance of the pit straight. The cars often come into contact with the central wall.

For the fasteners of walls, holes are pre-made . It remains for me more that to screw them when everything is dry.

Here are some pictures of staged for to finish

See you soon for the follow
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