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I just want to be sure before I spend all my money on wrong components.

I have an old vintage Artin/Speedtrax track.
I want to race both carrera go cars and the original 1:43 Artin cars. (I need to grind the guide pins on the Carrera cars)

If I buy a PSU with these specs: switch mode stabilized 6-15V 5000mA; will I then be able to switch between Artin and Carrera cars just by adjusting the voltage on the power supply?
What is the minimum and optimal requirements for the PSU in my setup? Only two slots and about 45 ft long. Mix of Artin cars and Carrera GO cars.

Can my old vintage speedtrax controllers handle the carrera Cars with the higher voltage?
If I want to buy new controllers, what should I be looking for? How many Ohms? I want to modify the track for brakes later on.

I wan't to buy adequate and good quality equipment, not the best on the market.

Any help is appreciated :)
 

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Your choice of power supply sounds fine to me... From memory thumb type plunger SpeedTrax controllers are about 25 ohm and Trigger type (usually found with non battery sets) about 35 ohms. Sorry it's been many years since I've measured them.

Carrera GO!!! controller are also about 35 ohms.

The higher voltage GO!!! cars won't bother the SpeedTrax controllers as they don't draw as much current as an Artin 1/43 car.

I think you'll find a 25 ohm Parma controller is a good all round controller for both regulated and unregulated power supply on 1/43 cars.

Personally I don't like running brakes on GO!!! cars, as I find it too aggressive, but I think it's good idea to run brakes on Artin/SpeedTrax 1/43.

I run a very small GO!!! layout (approx 5 metres) with 25 ohm Parma's and run my Artin/SpeedTrax/SpeedKing non magnet cars at 3 volts/3amps regulated and my magnet Artin/SpeedTrax/SpeedKing cars at 4.5... That's just my preference and it seems to work really well for us.

Have fun!
 

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the slot of SCX and Carrera track is deeper that artin track, so carrera guide pins / SCX guides will have to be shortened to run on artin track.
for artin cars, i like a 15 ohm controller, from 6 to 12V, carrera and SCX 60ohms (maybe 45, but not lower) for 12 to 14.8V.
the PS sounds mighty fine.
BTW, Carrera controllers are 35+25 ohm controllers, 35 ohms for the plunger, 25 for the turbo button (which bypasses a 25 ohm resistor in the power connection track piece, therefore 3 wires on the go!controller).
Peter
 

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QUOTE (pfuetze @ 23 Sep 2011, 15:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>(which bypasses a 25 ohm resistor in the power connection track piece, therefore 3 wires on the go!controller).
Peter

That setup was doing my head in trying to run Artin's on GO!!!
As the little Poly fuse things kept on fading out with the higher current draw of the Artin's... So I made up a whole new power base


EDIT: I forgot about the additional 25 ohms in the Carrera GO!! Power Base
 

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if the ohm rating of the controller is "too high" for a car, the car will start at end the travel of the controllers, meaning you have to push the controller finger more than the half way before the car will start.

if the ohm rating of the controller is "too low" for a car, the car will start at start the travel of the controllers with too high speed, meaning you start pushing the controller finger and the car is already way to fast for driving through the next corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the explanation. That was just what I had been looking for.


Is it possible for me to manually change the Ohm rating? Is it a resistor or something? Well it has been to many years since I learned anything about electric circuits.

I just received my Parma controllers today.
Have only been testing the controller responsiveness on cars with the rear end lifted up in the air @ 12V. The controller seems good for the artin cars. I can go really slow and gradually up to full speed.
But Carrera cars doesn't have that much difference in rpm.
 
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