compre NSR 3024 BABY King Evo 3 vs Eacer Sideways SWM/BBRAPTOR - Baby Raptor Motor
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There both the same. Slow
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3,138 Posts
Slow??? Compared to what exactly? I think it depends on the track(s) you race on and the rules you race under.
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Nsr 32/46 or srp 35/40 fk130 ,you might need 17k if you’re under 10 or your straight is 3 ft long otherwise you’ll fall asleep ,even on 15 volts 17k ,I think not
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There's nothing like useful feedback...and that's nothing like useful feedback.
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my original post was the correct feedback ,they are both slow.doesn’t matter which one you choose they are both underwhelming.
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What car is it going in?
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Ah! This is simply the opinion of a self appointed “slot god” it has no relevance in the real world.
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Compared to each other: according to the manufacturers' data, they are identical in power: 17,000 RPM and 245 g.cm torque = 10.4W. But we all know that manufacturers' data are notoriously inaccurate. I do not have either of these motors so I cannot comment on a "real world" comparison. However, I would not expect them to be significantly different.
Compared to other motors: you have not mentioned your intended use. Small home track vs. long club track, tight, technical vs long flowing, magnet vs no magnet: all of these make a big difference. IN GENERAL I do not agree with the "they are slow" opinion. For instance: they develop more power than an NSR 20k or even 22k Shark short can. Is that too little? I personally do not think so. Obviously a lot less power than a NSR King 21.4 (around 18W). FWIW having driven hundreds of proxy cars over many years I consider an 18W long can motor to be vastly overpowered at 11V on wood: cars with massive power like that have proven to never do well in North American non-magnet proxies, to such an extent you pretty much do not see them any more. For speed and drivability, short cans around 25K - 28K and 150 - 200 g.cm torque (around 11 to 14W max) seem to be the sweet spot. The two motors you ask about are not far from that.
My opinion? For home or club use on a average size wood track either of the two motors would work well. VERY well.
Alwyn
Compared to other motors: you have not mentioned your intended use. Small home track vs. long club track, tight, technical vs long flowing, magnet vs no magnet: all of these make a big difference. IN GENERAL I do not agree with the "they are slow" opinion. For instance: they develop more power than an NSR 20k or even 22k Shark short can. Is that too little? I personally do not think so. Obviously a lot less power than a NSR King 21.4 (around 18W). FWIW having driven hundreds of proxy cars over many years I consider an 18W long can motor to be vastly overpowered at 11V on wood: cars with massive power like that have proven to never do well in North American non-magnet proxies, to such an extent you pretty much do not see them any more. For speed and drivability, short cans around 25K - 28K and 150 - 200 g.cm torque (around 11 to 14W max) seem to be the sweet spot. The two motors you ask about are not far from that.
My opinion? For home or club use on a average size wood track either of the two motors would work well. VERY well.
Alwyn
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Terry races on my scalex track. We are running a GT3 class loosely based on DiSCA ruleset for this class.
Given the limited space, the 17K is more than enough.
Or at least, to me this is quick enough (Slot.it GT-R GT3 with Baby Raport):
Personally, I think that the Baby Raport has a bit more to give than the Baby King when properly run in (both in the same AW orientation).
Given the limited space, the 17K is more than enough.
Or at least, to me this is quick enough (Slot.it GT-R GT3 with Baby Raport):
Personally, I think that the Baby Raport has a bit more to give than the Baby King when properly run in (both in the same AW orientation).
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Both very capable motors. I'd add the Scaleauto baby sprinter as well but slightly higher rpm at 18k if allowed?
I've used them all in various endurance races and all very similar in performance.
They'll be fine on standard gearing on the tracks/power that you'll be using them on.
The high torque motor does allow for running at a 2/1 gear ratio. We usually run 12-14t pinion and 24-27t spur gear at the bigger DISCA GT3 Euro series cars.
John
I've used them all in various endurance races and all very similar in performance.
They'll be fine on standard gearing on the tracks/power that you'll be using them on.
The high torque motor does allow for running at a 2/1 gear ratio. We usually run 12-14t pinion and 24-27t spur gear at the bigger DISCA GT3 Euro series cars.
John
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I think the term "slotgod" is granted by the forum in a fairly haphazard fashion, not necessarily chosen by the user.
I am rather curious though as to why we would want to reduce the car's top speed by replacing the 23K motor from the standard car with a lower revving one, only to change the gearing to increase the top speed back up again, seems like a bit of a merry go round exercise.
Joel
PS: Alan is right of course, 17K is damn slow. Here is me trying to decide if I should change my King 30 and return to the King 38 I used before the voltage went up.
PPS: The forum insist on calling me "Slot King", me an absolute republican, where is that guillotine?
I am rather curious though as to why we would want to reduce the car's top speed by replacing the 23K motor from the standard car with a lower revving one, only to change the gearing to increase the top speed back up again, seems like a bit of a merry go round exercise.
Joel
PS: Alan is right of course, 17K is damn slow. Here is me trying to decide if I should change my King 30 and return to the King 38 I used before the voltage went up.
PPS: The forum insist on calling me "Slot King", me an absolute republican, where is that guillotine?
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No, that's a user created 'sig file' setup under your 'account details'
...and the "Slot King" under your name would have been made by you in the past on the old forum software, the option to change it doesn't seem to be there any more - mine is 'Kevs Racing Bits' but I can't find a way to change it.
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Thanks for the question, TerryH.
When I had a small, and I mean small (4’ x 8’), routed track, NSR and ScaleAuto anglewinder cars with stock motors and gearing were undrivable. Just too much power, so I switched to Baby Kings and Jaws 17.5K motors. Quite a revalation. The cars became drivable and fun.
I stepped up to a Carrera track with a 19’ 2” straight and broad curves; a “horsepower” track. I began to kick myself for selling off the original motors until I got a lap timer. The lower RPM motored cars turned lap times just a bit slower that the higher RPM cars. The difference was in smoothness. The LRPM cars are downright smooth to drive while the HRPM cars always seem to be on the ragged edge. In longer runs, the smoothness won.
I’m amazed at all the guys that run the 21K motors on 9-10 volts. I presume they do this to make the cars slower and more controllable. I prefer to run on 12 volts. It comes close to a BOP. LRPM cars can run with stock Scalextric and Fly cars and not obliterate them. Heck, some clubs run LRPM cars on 10 volts.
Sorry, I’m not a Slot God or Slot King, just a Basement Dweller looking to have fun. And I really don’t appreciate condescension. One can have a different opinion without being insolent.
When I had a small, and I mean small (4’ x 8’), routed track, NSR and ScaleAuto anglewinder cars with stock motors and gearing were undrivable. Just too much power, so I switched to Baby Kings and Jaws 17.5K motors. Quite a revalation. The cars became drivable and fun.
I stepped up to a Carrera track with a 19’ 2” straight and broad curves; a “horsepower” track. I began to kick myself for selling off the original motors until I got a lap timer. The lower RPM motored cars turned lap times just a bit slower that the higher RPM cars. The difference was in smoothness. The LRPM cars are downright smooth to drive while the HRPM cars always seem to be on the ragged edge. In longer runs, the smoothness won.
I’m amazed at all the guys that run the 21K motors on 9-10 volts. I presume they do this to make the cars slower and more controllable. I prefer to run on 12 volts. It comes close to a BOP. LRPM cars can run with stock Scalextric and Fly cars and not obliterate them. Heck, some clubs run LRPM cars on 10 volts.
Sorry, I’m not a Slot God or Slot King, just a Basement Dweller looking to have fun. And I really don’t appreciate condescension. One can have a different opinion without being insolent.
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The text under your forum handle, on the old forum software, was a field (I forgot what it was called) that was pre-populated by the forum software with various "status" levels based entirely on post count, and nothing else. At some point, either due to post count, or SlotForum+ status, users were able to change that setting through their account preferences/settings. I changed mine to my name. Apparently, since the forum "upgrade", the ability to change that setting is no longer available, at least not to the common users. At this point, we're stuck with whatever the last thing we set it to, I guess.
The signature text can still be changed, and one of the people in this thread felt it was a good idea to put "Slot God" in his/her signature, which would be entirely voluntary and editable, should s/he decide to change it.
The signature text can still be changed, and one of the people in this thread felt it was a good idea to put "Slot God" in his/her signature, which would be entirely voluntary and editable, should s/he decide to change it.
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To be perfectly honest we don't know what happened until Alan comes back and tells us.
However, whether or not he did call himself a Slot God doesn't invalidate his opinion of the motor being discussed, 17K is slow compared to the bulk of the motors listed on Pendle's site, the assertion is not wrong.
Joel
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To get back on topic: Why use a long can with less rpm and more torque than a S-can motor, or as In many cases why AW vs SW?
Several reasons: such as magnetic motor downforce on plastic track and heavy braking/acceleration on twisty tracks.
What about gearing? by re-gearing you could equalise any motor, right? In theory yes, in real life not that simple because there are unknowns (factors).
By re-gearing you can in theory match top speed by re-gearing. Acceleration and braking not that simple, because the different style of motors have a different style of behavior (or power/brake curve), that interact differently with different controllers or controller settings and the amount of available gear ratios are limited.
Several reasons: such as magnetic motor downforce on plastic track and heavy braking/acceleration on twisty tracks.
What about gearing? by re-gearing you could equalise any motor, right? In theory yes, in real life not that simple because there are unknowns (factors).
By re-gearing you can in theory match top speed by re-gearing. Acceleration and braking not that simple, because the different style of motors have a different style of behavior (or power/brake curve), that interact differently with different controllers or controller settings and the amount of available gear ratios are limited.
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