SlotForum banner
1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Graham Windle
Joined
·
4,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Once upon a time every one gets an opertunity to exploit a loop hole in the rules,bend them or just totaly flaunt them,so come on guys confess your sins and tell us your favourite cheat.

Just to start this one

Some years ago before the use of tagged grp 12 armatures in brsca racing every one used to rewind the standard arms ( you all know you did) .till some one brought an armature test meter into play ,how could one decieve the"eagle eyed " scruteneers then ?Easy Build 2 cars identical in every way exept for the motor put the standard car in for scruteneering surprisingly the car fails with a minor problem to wide at the rear needs a spacer removing but the car has passed in every other way .return to the scrut with the dodgy car and the width is checked the car gets passed and you have your express grp 12 car stickered and ready to go

We scruteneer after the event as well now (Bo*****s)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
EDITED: Because I realised they had to be things that you have done yourself:

To get around width testing:
Grind the tyres down at the sides so that the contact patch is at the very edge of the tyre. ie. no thick sidewalls. This way, though your axel is the same width, your contact patches can be about 2-3mm further apart.

Technically, you are meeting the rules, but you have a distinct advantage.

Lotus
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,889 Posts
Forgive me, Father for I have sinned.
I have fitted slimmer tyres to the front of a car to make sure it sits lower. I have endeavoured to make my tyres true and round. I have chopped parts of the bodyshell off in order to allow body rock and yes, I have loosened the screws securing said body to the chassis. On some occasions I have altered the gearing, or even fitted another motor entirely.

Erm... hang on. Sorry this is a confessional isn't it? Oops, I thought it was a thread about fundamental set up and tuning...ahem..er...well...err... awfully sorry to have wasted your time. Ta Ta for now!!

Mark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Well to cheat a cheater we did cheat a few years ago in a class for stock unsealed 16D motors in flexi's. We had a couple guys we figured were retiming their motors illegally and were also timing the brushes to gain an advantage, winning week after week by fair amounts of laps. It was no big deal as not much was at stake. As our racing program was fairly lax in tech checking, with no tear down called for, we raced mainly for fun.

So I took two 16d motors and I made up a couple sets of Deldrin plastic magnet look alikes. I then hollowed out the centers of them and inserted a set of small cobalt motor magnets in the center and coated them over with a thin coat of black epoxy. They looked identical to stock 16d magents if anyone wanted a tear down. Everthing else was stock. But our gearing could be much higher in ratio, then we had a good deal more top speed out of these plus brakes.

Two of us cleaned house for three weeks and after the fourth week they got mad and demanded a tear down of our motors, we did, and they found nothing wrong. Then we brought in a mag gauss meter we bought, to show them the increased gauss readings even from the outside of the cans and confessed to what I had did, just to beat them at their cheating.

Which we found, when we tore their motors down also, as part of their demand on us. The re-timing was obvious and they both left and did not come back for 6 weeks with now stock motors. Not another word was ever said about it. Racing was fun again for all.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
You guys want me to confess my sins? Okay, here's a rule-stretching story from the distant past. Most of my friends know about this anyway, so I'll contribute it to this SF "Hall of Shame".

The old American Model Raceways 220-foot Sovereign track (commonly called a Purple Mile, as 220-feet is a 1/24th scale mile) at Georgia Hobby Center was a T-slot track (BTW I am told that not all AMR tracks were). That is, the slot was routed with a cross slot at the bottom and in profile looked like an upside-down "T" rather than a sans serif "I". It occurred to me that a guide with lips along the bottom of the blade might perhaps hook into the bottom of the slot as the guide tilted, with obvious benefits for a slot car.

So here's what I did: using an appropriate wire-size bit, I drilled a small hole at the very front lower corner of the guide 90 degrees to the blade, about 1/16-inch from the bottom edge of the blade. Then I drilled two holes in the rear lower corner of the blade, starting each hole from the same point on a small flat filed on the narrow vertical rear surface. One hole angled forward to the right at approximately 45 degrees; the other angled left. I then scraped a small groove on both sides of the guide blade, extending from the front cross hole to the rear angled holes. Next, using clear monofilement fishing line of about 10/12-lb test, I put a piece through the cross hole, carrying the ends back along the bottom of the blade and into the angled holes at the rear corners, and out the back edge of the blade. Pulling the two ends of the fishing line as tight as I could, I tied a couple of knots. A few drops of CA to "pot" the fishing line into the two grooves made it almost disappear into the black plastic of the guide. The knots were sealed with CA as well and once the glue was fully hard, I carefully sanded most of the knots way.

What I ended up with was a guide flag with durable, smooth lips along the bottom edges that could be felt but were virtually invisible to the eye. I made certain that the lips did not make the bottom of the guide too wide to fit into the slot in the track tech block, which was always used to check clearance before we raced.

I ran this guide in a race exactly one time (believe it or not!) and it worked VERY well. Though it did not prevent the car from ever coming out, one really had to work hard to get it to deslot. Those viewing the race may have noticed that I wasn't falling off much, but when I overcooked it coming around the tight lead-on onto the long main straight, and the car spun out well over 90 degrees to the slot without coming out of it, eyes really got wide!

There's a follow-up to this story. One well-known racer I will not name was shown the guide after the one time I raced it and he decided he would make one for himself. Unfortunately he used much larger fishing line and also neglected to check whether the modified guide would go into the tech block slot. And when the scrutineer noticed that his guide wouldn't drop into the slot at all, nor could be forced in, the jig was up for him.

I'm willing confess to a few other sins from my misspent slot racing youth, if anyone's interested. There's the tale of the bottomless can as well as the story of the inside-the-endbell shunts, just to whet your appetites . . .

But I'd like to make certain the moderators aren't going to ban me from the BBS for this post before I spill the beans on those! :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Hi

Like Larry, I did the HO cobalts in the 16d magnet trick. San Antonio in a Texas series. supposedly, while the class had some serious money, the motors were supposed to be stock 16ds. I offered that people were cheating, and the series tech guy explained that he was so expert that everything I said was stupid. "If you can to anything I cannot see, go for it". Most people were running 9/28, I was running 10/25 and pulling them on acceleration and top end. That summer, 82, won 2 car stereos, and a bunch of money off that one. AFTER, I offered to do a complete tear down and explain, if I could do a couple of the others cars.

Everyone decided they would rather have me win than tech.

In the early 70s, the texture of orange tires was superior on the local tracks(4 of them), than black. Started a series for gp.12s requiring black. So, I did Orange tires with a light swipe of "magic marker" that would survive tech, but not the qualifying session without showing orange.

In the mid 60s, the bodies were still SCALE. Rules required off the shelf bodys and so on. Lots of people were using hot spoons to flare the fenders and widen the car. I actually backpoured a body, sectioned it wider, and pulled a couple vacs off it. So, they changed the rules to "Commercially Available".

And I won't tell the story about "Broadcast Power".

Fate
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Oh, c'mon Rocky, I'm baring my evil soul . . .

Here the tale of the "Bottomless Can."

At the time we were racing stock Parma 16Ds (not sealed units; this was well before sealed motors were being marketed) and we were not proscribed from replacing arms, rebuilding motors, etc. The chassis of choice (heck, IIRC it was the only modern stamped steel chassis available at the time) was the original Parma Flexi, what we now refer to as the Flexi-1.

Even with decent soldering skills, it was not uncommon to knock motors out in hard crashes so I began sweat-soldering my motor cans to the chassis for several reasons. First, sweating the motor onto the chassis meant I NEVER knocked a motor out. Second, doing this made the chassis act as a heat sink for the motor, and running on that Purple Mile the motors would get toasty warm as we geared rather high due to the very long straightaway. The bad part was that I had to build my motors on the chassis, which was a serious pain in the butt. And one had to get the can positioned just right before firing up the torch. But overall, attaching the motor in this manner worked very well.

One problem with this trick was that the older Parma 16D cans were not stamped very crisply and the flat sides of the motors weren't very flat at all. So I began my road to perdition by sanding that side of the motor in order to get better solder contact. After doing this a few times, it occurred to me that I could lower the motor in the chassis by sanding the bottom of the can more than would be required simply to get a full solder bond. I think those old cans were stamped from .040 or .035-inch stock, so I just kept sanding until the bottom face was .025 thick, and noticed improved handling due to the lower center of gravity that resulted. Well, if sanding off a little helped, sanding off more would help more, right? I tried sanding the bottom to .010 thick and yep, the handling was improved further. So I started sanding the bottom of the can to as thin as I could get it. Once the motor was sweated to the chassis, what I was doing was virtually undetectable and my cars handled much better than before.

As I was installing the magnets into a can already soldered to a chassis, I noticed that the 16D magnets were quite a bit narrower than the can itself, perhaps as much as .050-inch. You can guess the next step, I suspect. I just kept sanding the can until the bottom was completely gone and until the curved sides were shortened to just the height of the magnets themselves. The chassis metal itself then acted as the bottom can face, keeping the magnetic field essentially unaffected.

Once the motor as soldered to the chassis, with fillets along the lengths of both sides, the fact that the motor can no longer had a bottom could not be seen, especially with the endbell in place and with the motor bracket shielding the other end of the can from view. Even after I stopped racing this arrangement, when I asked people to look very closely at the chassis and motor, no one ever saw it until I explained what they were looking at.

Of course, I had to move the can bushing a little, to keep the arm concentric with the air gap, as well as to file a bit on the endbell, both to keep it from holding that end of the motor off the chassis and to relocate the bushing to the proper place.

I will admit to racing this setup for an entire series and was pretty hard to beat, because with its much lower center of gravity my car would corner MUCH better than other cars. Was this out and out cheating? Your call, though the rules we then used made no reference to can modifications and my cars passed tech inspection before every race!

I did move on to higher classes after that series, as I knew that the stock Flexi class was no place for that sort of sophisticated workmanship. In fact, it was not until I was conned by a teammate into racing USRA 16D classes about two or three years ago I ever raced anything but a C-can motor.

How many "Hail Marys" for this sin? :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
RR, only if you promise not to try any of this sort of shady stuff yourself.

In fact, this is one of my main motivations for 'fessing up after all these years: so scrutineers can have their eyes opened to the sort of things that "innovative" racers will stoop to doing!

BTW it's been well over a decade (longer, in some cases) since these transgressions were perpetrated.

"Hello. My name is Cheater and I have a slot racing problem . . ."

I'll post a couple of more shameless stories in a few hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
I agree cheater.

I will never break any rule, but will exploit loopholes to my advantage.

I will you anything I find for one meeting, then tell everyone about it. That way scrutineers can either ban it or else everyone can start doing it.

One thing I will say is that for RTR cars with a tight fitting chassis. When the rules say "no filing or cutting" of the chassis, do they mean 'scraping' aswell? It doesn't say so...

Another cunning trick is 'advancing the ware rate'. Anything which will run in, can surely be run in artificially... Someone named this common trick the other night and I thought it might just get me out of a tight spot if ever I found my self in one...

Lotus

PS. Keep going... when will you get to RTR cars?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
L3,

You shouldn't call yourself a true racer unless you push the envelope every now and then. Mark Donohue called it the "unfair advantage," I believe. :cool:

The problem with me having anything to say concerning RTR 1/32 cars is that I've only ever owned one of them, a Fly Panoz coupe given to me by one of my customers and friends who now heads Panoz Engine Development (I think). When I finally clued him in to my slot racing addiction, and mentioned that Fly had just introduced a 1/32 Panoz coupe, he said, "Yeah, I know. They sent us a couple of cases of them. You want one?" He did send me one and it's the only 1/32 RTR I own. I've run it exactly once.

I'm a little odd (no snickering, please!) in that during the middle 60s, I only ever bought one 1/24 slot car kit, a Dynamic Hussein mail-ordered from AutoWorld, and then moved immediately into scratchbuilding under the tutelage of an older friend: he was 12 and I was 11! When I came back to the commercial hobby in the late 80s (my third spin at slots), scratchbuilding was basically dead so I began running 1/24 stamped steel cars and have continued in that genre ever since. Never did get the wing-car bug.

I guess you won't mind hearing about the inside-the-endbell shunt wires, which came about as I recall from a post-race bull session where another racer was grousing that we ought to be allowed to run shunt wires in 16D motors.

It got me to thinking whether or not I could figure out a way to put hidden brush shunt wires inside the endbell. So I gave it a shot and here's how I did it.

First, I took a Parma 16D endbell plastic and used my Dremel MotoTool to cut vee-shaped slots in the flat areas under the brush hoods, such that with the brush plates and hoods installed, there was no plastic directly under the hoods themselves and the plates completely covered the slots. Then, using a Dremel cut-off wheel, I made a thin slot in each brush plate, aligning the slot with the long axis of the motor brush and centering it on the width of the brush. The slots extended from the small concave "faces" of the plates (toward the comm) back toward the convex curved sides of the endbell itself. These slots almost cut the brush plates in half, but stopped about 1/16-inch before bisecting them. The slotted brush plates were then CA'd into position on the endbell plastic and situated such that the brush plate slots were exposed from the bottom by the vee-shaped slots I had earlier cut in the endbell plastic. I then installed the actual brush hoods in their normal positions atop the now-slotted base plates.

It was common to have a lead wire tab break off these early brass brush hoods and no one cared if you then soldered your lead wire either to the top of the hood or to the screw next to the missing tab. So I broke off the two lead wire tabs and soldered the thin lead wire we used at the time to the screws but carefully routed the tip of each wire between the hood and the endbell's bushing stanchions, turning them down at the tips so they were accessible from underneath the endbell. I think I notched the plastic of the endbell a tiny bit to provide clearance for these lead wire "tails."

I then made two shunt wires out of the commercial material sold for this purpose and carefully soldered one to each of the leadwire tails. These had to be formed into "C" shapes flat against the bottom of the endbell, to allow for movement of the shunts as the brushes wore and to keep them from getting caught in the comm tabs. The shunt wires ran from one side of the hoods and then swept close to the curved sides of the endbell before turning back toward the slots in the baseplate from the other side of the hoods. The very tip of each shunt wire was then twisted tightly together, bent 90 degrees, and inserted through the slot in each brush hood baseplate as far as possible without touching the top of the brush hood.

If you've followed me this far, you're probably wondering just how this was to work? Here's the trick: I took each motor brush and cut it in half, so that I ended up with what looked like two pair of very worn short motor brushes. I then installed the two halves of each brush into the brush hood such that the shunt wire tip sticking into the hood through the base plate slot was clamped between the brush halves by the pressure of the brush spring! I seem to recall that I also filed a shallow groove into each brush half's face to keep the shunt wires centered.

I will leave it to your imagination just how fiddly the final assembly process was!

As with the fishing line guide flag confessed to earlier in this thread, I only ran this one time, for I found to my utter chagrin that it made absolutely no difference in how that 16D motor ran. And the whole process was so time-consuming and delicate that it was probably a good thing that it didn't make the motor go any faster, because then I would have been tempted to do it again! But it did prove to my satisfaction that it indeed was possible to put hidden brush shunt wires inside the endbell.

(Note to anyone coming to the RadTrax Slot Car Convention in May: I still have this endbell, as well as the fishing line guide flag mentioned earlier, and will be bringing the evidence with me to Las Vegas if anyone needs proof of my perfidious tendencies!)

I hope you folks will be kind to me today in spite of my past sins. I stopped by the grocers on the way home tonight to pick up a few things and found to my absolute horror that for the very first time in my life, I was given the "senior citizen discount" by the mere child of a cashier. I didn't request it; she just did it automatically. Oh, the shame and humiliation! I won't even reach the big five-oh for three more months! Please have some empathy for my severely depressed state this evening . . .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,230 Posts
Jeeez!

I don't know what to say. Either I was too dumb to cheat or my damn cars were too fast!


Or there was no need because all of you guys were TOO SLOW!


 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top