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OK - I've been trying to figure this out & I'll be needing help from guys with more electrical circuitry know how than I have. Please all feel free to try this argument out as I've been working on the theory for a while..

Take these points.

a Carrera cars are designed to run at 14 volts.

b My Fly cars & particularly my MG Vanquish cars are boiling handles at me 'causethey need bigger resistors in the loop (I think - different handles anyhow)

c Scaley is supposedly going to be able to run 'all' cars if converted.

d Scaley supposedly already has lock out issues running a number of cars.

This makes no sense to me. Is it more accurate to suggest that Scaley digital is going to run any scaley, or equivalently powered ohm watted cars (and not the ones that burn my fingers) rather than Carrera,Fly & obviosly scary MG stuff?? This seems to me that it will happen over all platforms.

The following seems logically correct..

1 - Hand controls will not differ with voltage (ohm-age?) as they are a control device only & not carrying the current to run the cars. The talk of aftermarket handles is hence silly.

2 - The only place for after market hot ups is in the car "transponder" so it can deal with hot motors

3 - if you use the "hot" cars like them I mentioned (good english me) you're only going to get more "overloads" which has already been quoted as a problem?
 

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EnoDog-

These are very good points! I'm finishing up my first FLY conversion (908/3) and will be posting details later today. I had some of the same questions, and perhaps have some answers. Hopefully we can have a productive dialog. I will try to keep this as brand agnostic as I can. Here are some thoughts:

* First, I think it is highly optimistic to say that ANY car can be converted to digital whether it is SSD or Pro-X. There are alot of variables. Some of the lighter, smaller cars run ok at 12V, but heavier cars with hotter motors may need more voltage. Throw magnets, alternate gearing ratios, and various course requirements (home vs club tracks) into the mix and it becomes impossible to accomodate all variations.

*Resistors are used to tune the performance and feel of analog cars. Magnets and gearing are used to a lesser degree. Because digital controls are electronic, we have lost the abilty to tune the acceleration curve so we are at the mercy of the interaction between motor and chip.

*I believe that if any manufacturer is serious about converting analog cars to their system, they need to offer the abilty to tune the acceleration curve. This could be something programmed into the power base or controller, or better yet, be offered by jumpers on the decoder chip.

*I believe that if any manufacturer is serious about converting analog cars, then the system needs to work at a variety of voltages. This means two things 1) The System itself can accomodate a useful range of voltage (say 12-20V) without overloads or errors. 2) The digital chip can handle increased voltage without frying. Its really only a subset of cars and layouts that work well at lower voltage. Large, fast tracks and heavier cars need more voltage. For instance, Pro-X will work at a voltage as low as 12V, but on my track with the heavy Pro-X cars with hot e200 motors, nothing less than 15V is satisfying.

*The only means currently at our disposal of tuning the acceleration curve is by using a variable power supply. Increasing voltage on the Pro-X system feels like using a controller with less resistance. You end up driving in a lower part of the throttle. However, this is just a band aid.

*The e200 and 908/3s mabuchi work well, but I have no illusion that all motors will work well (or work at all) with the Pro-X decoder. At least the basic carrera setup is a fairly hot motor run at a higher voltage. It is probably safe to say that the decoder can sefely handle motors with lesser power requirements. The opposite is less likely to be true.
 

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Just a thought for careful consideration

Anyone deliberately running electronic equipment at a voltage other than manufacturer recommended, hasn't a leg to stand on if that equipment dies after screaming satisfactorily for a while.
This 'non-standard' scenario must be a manufacturer's worst nightmare.
 

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You are probably correct, Brian, but my word of caution was not directed at him!

However, he did (very sensibly) say
QUOTE It is probably safe to say that the decoder can sefely handle motors with lesser power requirements. The opposite is less likely to be true.

The opposite is most decidedly less likely to be true and it does no harm, in fact the very opposite, to suggest that people be very careful with variable output PSUs, some of which can whack out up to 30 volts.
 

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QUOTE (Tropi @ 30 Jan 2005, 19:27)You are probably correct, Brian, but my word of caution was not directed at him!

Based on Darainbow's post

QUOTE OH, I forgot to mention that the Pro-X 908/3 run at 16V SCREAMS!!!

Then your reply -

QUOTE Anyone deliberately running electronic equipment at a voltage other than manufacturer recommended, hasn't a leg to stand on if that equipment dies after screaming satisfactorily for a while.

Your words "screaming satisfactory" seemed like you were referring to Darainbow's post.

Brian
 

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Haven't even seen Fly's recommended power range.

Does anyone have a copy of it??

...and a Fly Car is THE last car I would run at that kind of voltage. 16 volts might be OK for the motor once one admits it will also greatly reduce the lifespan of the car. No way is Fly plastic going to hang together in an impact of such terminal velocity.

....really bold claim from anyone who makes plastic toys.
 
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