As a beginning to an article on Controllers I would like to glean information on the various types out there, can anyone add to this list of manufacturers of controllers suitable for 1/32 scale tracks?
Ninco
Scalextric
Carrera
SCX
Professor Motor
Red Fox - Do they have a website?
Parma
Im using a Carsteen .
Others I race with use the previously mentioned professor motor and Slotit controllers.
One of our top racers uses the Third Eye Technologies controller.(he has two)
Another uses the ACD pro.
regards
I personally use Professor Motor controllers but also own a Difalco. To me the difference is negligable. A high end controller is a high end controller. At the local commercial track using a Professor controller I can pull a 7.91 lap average in 5 minutes with the Difalco I can pull a 7.89 average. Yep the Difalco is faster buy a whooping .02 seconds but thats less than a lap gain for any racing under 395 laps in lenth. Now I am by no means a top racer I am pretty middle of the road at my club. Professor Motor controllers are very light compared to Difalco and that's good in longer races. So in my opinion (which matters little) the Professor Motor controllers are the best bang for the buck controllers you can get. (I also like Slot.it controllers but there are so many little things most racers will never use). Why would I spend an extra 400 bucks on a Difalco when it's only .02 seconds faster than a Professor Motor. BTW when i tested a Slot.it controller for the first time my average lap was 7.89 (same as the Difalco) and that controller to is 400 less than a Difalco but there is so much stuff to deal with on a Slot.it I don't like them. Grip is very nice though.
At my club,members use a variety of controllers
Slot-it SCPs seem to predominate but theres a fair selection of Tru-speeds of varios types.
I have two PWM units made by a Mr. Bob Budge under the name of "PULSE CONTROLLERS" & am very pleased with them.
The first one was bought from a fellow club-man after it was loaned to me & I found it unlocked the potential of various cars compared to my 45ohm Parma.
The second was bought on the strength of that, its a Mk 3 with a more versatile "slope" & choke arrangement.
My son uses a Slot-it, & an NSR-Parma, I dont care for the balance of the SCP
At home I use the basic Ninco unit on my Ninco track.
Recently I bought a new Difalco controller that is designed for 1/32nd non-magnet racing. The controller has fifteen adjustable bands as opposed to ten on my older Difalco. The new controller has the usual sensitivity and brake adjustments plus an added choke control to tame those overpowered cars. The transistor heat sink is much smaller than the one on my older controller. It is always a good thing if you can try out a controller before you buy it. Besides lowering your lap times you would want a new controller to feel comfortable in your hand. Robust construction can also be important. It can spoil your whole evening if your controller fails during a race.
QUOTE (ra7c7er @ 16 Aug 2009, 12:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>there is so much stuff to deal with on a Slot.it I don't like them. Grip is very nice though.
There is one adult racer in my group who uses the slotit controller and he is still trying to master the many settings and functions which is why I prefer the PM controller.
However if slotit made a more simple controller with variable brakes and sensitivity then I am sure it would be a hit.
I have just got an NSR electronic controller seems to have all the stuff you need. Truth is if your electronic controller has variable brakes sensitivity pot and traction control then there is little to add other than the feel of the trigger and the length of the trigger pull. Depends on how your driving style is I have a PM and like the longer trigger pull compared to a Parma so the NSR will take some getting used to. I bought it for the traction control extra and the more comfortable size. I like to have lots of brake the sensitivity dialed out (less sensitive) and get on the throttle before the corner and drive through it so the feel of the long trigger works for me. Some guys run big gears so have less brakes so more roll and don't hit the throttle till after the car is through the corner so a lot of how the controller is effective or not depends on how you like to drive. The type of driver who you see mash the throttle and are either completely on or off the throttle will like the shorter throw triggers.
QUOTE (Petr L @ 19 Aug 2009, 19:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I use DIY electronic controller with variable brakes, sensity, sharpness and power.
This is my version popular electronic controller concept.
hi all
controllers mmmmmmmmm! tricky subject many out that are stock standard electronics or make your own black box of tricks
for years i made my own controllers with black boxes added to get more controller and tryed most makes out there to find a better conroller
and for me i have found mine ( my opion)
it's a tru-speed controller
it must be pretty good
i enter many events around the county to name one, the slot it challenge the top 30 racers in this event (give or take 1 or 2) all use this type of controller
it's pwm type with adjustable every thing from brakes to power(volts passing through)
ok it is pricey then most good ones are
it been designed and built by Steve Hills an electronics wizard that just happens to be a slot car racer so he knew what needed to be in one
have a look at www.truspeed.co.uk
but it not just the controller that makes a good racer
it also a good prepared car and the person that holds it
bring the 3 together and it all becomes worth while
QUOTE (dangermouse @ 12 Sep 2009, 01:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>now that is something I would like to see - a simple version of the slot.it controller with brakes and sensitivity -
Turn the small curve max knob to 10. Turn the anti-spin knob to 0.
Leave them there.
You've got a slot.it controller with adjustable brakes and sensitivity.
(It must be in linear mode, but that's the default....)
QUOTE (b.yingling @ 10 Mar 2010, 13:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Turn the small curve max knob to 10. Turn the anti-spin knob to 0.
Leave them there.
You've got a slot.it controller with adjustable brakes and sensitivity.
(It must be in linear mode, but that's the default....)
Nice one, Bruce!
People seem to think that if it has a lot of knobs, you HAVE to twiddle them all.
Yet, people often race with controllers that have no adjustment at all. They have a great controller, but they adjust their driving to each car they drive.
You can do that with a slot.it controller, too!
Just set the knobs all to about their half-way points, and leave them. Or like Bruce said, set a couple to certain things, and only adjust the others.
There's a guy in my club that just can't get the hang of his controller, but I think it's because he's always changing the settings without understanding what they do! Just leave them all alone, and only adjust one of them. Once you really understand what it does and how it affects the way the car drives, start adjusting another one. It won't be long before you're turning knobs without looking at them in the middle of a race to get the car to drive the way you like it to, rather than changing the way you drive according to the car. Both are valid ways of driving, of course, but if you CAN adjust the controller, why not?
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