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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I have been planning to expand my test track to the full length of the main lounge.

But before doing that I need to do some serious power distribution.

So got some nice 15A automotive twin cable and got to work making power tap straights.

This afternoon move the table in the kitchen and got to work.

I did plan the whole track on TrackPower first as an extension of my previous test track.

First I start locating the power taps furthest away from the main source power.

Furniture Curtain Wood Interior design Architecture

Then, it was a matter of changing some of the bits from the previous track to make room for some more lane changes.

Light Black Wood Road surface Flooring

Wood Curtain Flooring Floor Road surface

When all he pieces were connected I removed some of the dust of the pieces that I have never used before.

As a bonus, it turned out that I was too conservative in my measurements so I could add another set of full straights.

Even though I cleaned up the track, I still need to do some laps for getting the dust out and letting inox do its magic.

While driving it is a pleasure to listen to one of the episodes of the World Wide Slot Car Chat.

This is the view from the driver position.

Left hand side:

Wood Floor Flooring Road surface Asphalt

Right hand side:

Wood Interior design Flooring Floor Art

To have a full-view pic of the track I had to go outside:

Wood Flooring Floor Plant Composite material

After that I brought in my other laptop with RCSO2 in it and start doing some lap and check that the pitlane was working properly.

The track is not challenging at all but fun. I would not mind to have a race on it.

But if I had to do a more permanent track, I would definitely change the design and modify some R3s and R2s to have 15 degree pieces like the R4s.

I still have some 14 full straights but I literally run out of rooms. ;-) Plus some 9 R2, 2 R3 and 10 R4 and plenty of R1.

I need to look in building a shed outside.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Track at rest.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Curtain Bag

Property Picture frame Wood Interior design Floor

I have used the red locks to lock together some sections (like corners and some straight parts) so I can easily dismantle in section and store in our room out of the way.

I am not sure for how long I can keep this.

Below the layouts for the long and short version, The layouts have been edited since I built both after I had a chat with Gary Skipp on how to position lane changers on a four laner.

Ecoregion Urban design Rectangle Land lot Grass

Land lot Urban design Grass Line Asphalt
 

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Premium Member
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2,389 Posts
Hello Gio
Track looks good, nice flow, good placement of the LC's...but.
...to get the heavy 1/24 Scaleauto's up to top speed you'll need a few more power feeds on the main straight.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks you guys!

@ Tamar: I think I was running the power supply at 10.5 v. It is definitely on the slow side for a heavy 1/24. Even for my 1/32 and the baby king ;-)

But I agree that I need more power taps on the main straight. When one day I will have the space to make such a track permanent I will also feed the lane changer drivers separately from the rails.

Carrera conductivity sucks but what a nice surface. I really like the grip level on the sponge and NSR tyres.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Cici! She is not that happy that I spend so much time with slotcars instead of sitting next to her on the couch while she is asleep.

You can also see her on the second video between the long straight and the brick wall.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I went and checked the voltage on my PSU and surprise surprise it read 8.5 v!

I am sure that I did not change the settings...so I turned up the knob for the voltage and I could not get up to 11 v instead of the nominal 16.

I think I need a new PSU!
 

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Registered
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1,359 Posts
Carrera conductivity sucks but what a nice surface. I really like the grip level on the sponge and NSR tyres.
Interesting comment Gio. Do you notice the slightly raised rails at all? (about 0.4mm above the plastic in a lot of cases from track made after 2011) I had trouble getting used to the idea at first but to be honest, in practice I very rarely notice it. The cars just slide over them without problems 99% of the time.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I was aware from another post that there was a difference in the rails between track made at different times. My track is a mix of very new, semi new and very old (exclusive) track.

To be honest with the few hundreds laps i have done with my 1/32 cars and 1/24 car I cannot feel much of a difference.

The 1/32 cars are set-up for scalex track where the rails are flush with the track.

I think those old pieces (4 tabs) are the one that have more problem with conductivity.

I was expecting much less grip on carrera (for some reason) but actually it is pretty good.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Some more testing this time at 10.5V.

I tested a 1/24 Scaleauto Porsche 911 RSR with a home series chassis.

It is completely stock except that I have lightly skimmed the rear tyres (not glued) and used some oil to get a bit more grip.

The rest is just as it came from the box. No magnets of course! Best lap: 8.260.


I tested again the R8 with metal chassis and sponge rear tires.

The R8 feels slower but it has superior cornering speed compared to the more lightweight Porsche.

To be fair, the Porsche came with a 22.5K motor while the R8 has a 22K motor.

Still, best lap: 7.730.

 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The foamies on the R8 are special ones given to me by Udo the last time I visited his club in Brescia.

I have to test now the scaleauto ones...and since I am here, I should also do some testing with a car prepared for the 1/32 DiSCA Euro Series regs.
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,987 Posts
EMSA uses foamies about half the time these days. If it's not Scaleauto foam rubber wheels/tires, then it's slot.it N, NSR, or urethane. I can't remember the last time we raced with stock tires. With the foam rubber goes the tire cleaner. That stuff works well on lots of tires, but is mandatory on ScaleAuto foam rubber.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
you mean the scaleauto tyre cleaner? Definitely.

If you remember I bought some after I saw you using it. I ended up with the normal one and the "slot grip" version which I think has some sort of "glue".

I have not used the grip version much, but even the normal one after applying a tiny amount changes the grip on the foams.

However, I avoid using these cleaners on rubber tyres because I have the suspect that they make the rubber tyres go hard after a while.

For rubber I use my special mix of transaxle oil with CRC contact cleaner. I have tyres treated with this mix that are still grippy after 2 years of being sitting in a storage box.
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,987 Posts
Yeah, I don't use the glue version. And yes, the "cleaner" will speed up the degradation of rubber. For me, it's never been a hardener, though. It's mostly naphtha, so works great on NSR type rubber.

I remember now our previous discussion. :)
 
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