[Wankel Ickx]

Over a month since I posted anything and thanks to a new strategy I'm employing that I like to call 'Two Steps Forward, One Step Back' I've only a cautionary tale and a question.

The cautionary tale? Don't think that putting a wee glass jar of paint in yer pocket when you go to walk the dog will mix it up nicely by the time you're home again. Actually, I have done this successfully on several occasions, including with Zero Paints, and it does blend things but I recently did it and part way round the walk wondered why I could smell... paint. Fortunately, I had put the jar in a plastic bag but, all the same, a little had leaked from the now broken jar.

Meh.

And the question? Any ideas why my Patto decals bubbled (see photo)?

I swear, when I put the shell aside to settle everything was smooth as. A couple of hours later and I could cry. I had used Revell Decal Set, could that be at fault?

Bonus question: what's the best way to remove decals?

 

[Neillie]

Meh.

And the question? Any ideas why my Patto decals bubbled (see photo)?

I swear, when I put the shell aside to settle everything was smooth as. A couple of hours later and I could cry. I had used Revell Decal Set, could that be at fault?

Bonus question: what's the best way to remove decals?

When I was doing my decals I read a few comments that Revell Decal Set was quite hard on decals and attacked some makes...I went for the Microscale stuff in the end and haven't had any problems.

According to the bottle on Micro Set it is also an Decal Remover...? Don't know, never tried.

 

[chappyman66]

I have used SolvaSet for years. However, if you lay it on too heavy, it can bubble the decals. They need to be on and dry, and then I coat them lightly (it has a brush in the cap).

But MicroSol is quite well known as well.

 

[Wankel Ickx]

They need to be on and dry...

What, like properly dry dry?? As in, days later??

Annoyingly, and because I'm impatient, had the Revell brew sitting there and the Solvaset I had ordered from Slotfabrik hadn't yet arrived, I did do a test with a spare bit of decal from another set. Because that was fine, 24hrs later I proceeded.

The Solvaset has arrived now. Well, something has arrived but apparently the branded stuff is no longer available so what they sent is unmarked and with dilution instructions.🤔

That makes me nervous.🙄

I might get the Microsol stuff, if only for the removal option. Thanks for the tip.

This Zee is turning into a complete testbed, sadly. Mind, I don't like BMWs so....

 

[GRUNZ]

I have had this happened to other Patto decals.

And I used the Micro set and Micro sol liquids.

Nowadays I use the MrHobby product. But I put less and once the decal is in position I remove the excess liquid with a cotton bud.

 

[GRUNZ]

By the way, what kind of dog do you have?

 

[driver#8]

And the question? Any ideas why my Patto decals bubbled (see photo)?

I've had this happen once on two cars that I was building at the same time. They reacted badly to the lacquer I was using to seal them and shrivelled.

Nasty.

Ever since then I've been uber cautious with using any decal softener on Patto's stuff - not really a problem as it seats very well to begin with. Then only use Klear to seal them, applied with a brush or by dipping.

 

[Neillie]

Ever since then I've been uber cautious with using any decal softener on Patto's stuff - not really a problem as it seats very well to begin with. Then only use Klear to seal them, applied with a brush or by dipping.

And to be fair to Patto he does say use Klear for his decals

 

[chappyman66]

As for drying, I wait overnight, and brush very lightly. I find Pattos decals to be good, but have had wrinkles on large stripes.
I use Future brushed on to seal them.

 

[Trisha]

I never seal transfers. Just occasionally they get damaged and tend to flake and fall off, usually partially, which I rather like. The well-worn look, I feel, is authentic, especially on rally cars in conjunction with travel-staining.

To my tired old eyes a rally car in mint condition doesn't look quite right. Pretty, yes, but battle scars are preferable in my world.

Ditto my Slot It New Man 956. Used and abused it for years. It's now showing its age, and rightly.

As you were.

 

[GRUNZ]

As clear to seal the decal and paint I use Mr Hobby and it does not affect Patto's decals.

 

[Wankel Ickx]

As for drying, I wait overnight, and brush very lightly. I find Pattos decals to be good, but have had wrinkles on large stripes.

Just to be clear, you're brushing very lightly once applied and then drying overnight. There's no brushing going on the next day, is there?

The size of the stripes on one set of decals I have is scary. I can't see how I can achieve a decent result and even before the bubble-gate incident I was planning on masking and painting as much as possible. The dilemma there is just how well the painted sweeps match up to the decals I can't delete and have to use.🤔

What kinda hound? A Bedlington Terrier Whippet cross.

As mad as a box of frogs.🙄 Bless.

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Bonus question: does it have to be a gloss clearcoat to counter decals 'silvering' at the edges?

Reason being, I've used some Zero Paints' Clearcoat (https://www.hiroboy.com/Clearcoat_Lacquer_30ml_Prethinned_ready_for_Airbrushing--product--13483.html ) that looks kinda satin when dry. The blurb says a gloss finish, slash shine, can be built up but I'm only achieving what looks satin to me. Yet they list another product that sells itself as actually being a satin.

Should I seek a full gloss clearcoat to avoid the naff silvered edges?

 

[chappyman66]

Sorry....
I apply decals, blot with tissue. Allow to dry at least an hour, sometimes overnight.
Brush lightly with solvaset. Wait overnight (it's an eternity).
Brush lightly with Future / klear.

Aaaand.....
It doesn't always work. Wide nose stripes have bubbled.

 

[driver#8]

Bonus question: does it have to be a gloss clearcoat to counter decals 'silvering' at the edges?

Reason being, I've used some Zero Paints' Clearcoat (https://www.hiroboy.com/Clearcoat_Lacquer_30ml_Prethinned_ready_for_Airbrushing--product--13483.html ) that looks kinda satin when dry. The blurb says a gloss finish, slash shine, can be built up but I'm only achieving what looks satin to me. Yet they list another product that sells itself as actually being a satin.

Should I seek a full gloss clearcoat to avoid the naff silvered edges?

No, as long as you are applying the decals to a gloss surface it doesn't matter what finish you choose for the topcoat.

All of my military aircraft models are finished in gloss, recalled and then given a matt/satin finish as appropriate.

If you want to play save with Patto's stuff, apply a coat of Klear to seal them and then add a matt coat.

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Noted. With thanks.👍

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Progress, but of the slow kind.

I think, I hope, I stated before that I was increasingly nervous of some of the large decals in my chosen liveries and contemplating pushing my luck with the masking tape and the airbrush. Biting the bullet, I swathed Huracan A in enough tape to make an Egyptian mummy well jel, while Huracan B got away with a little less sticky stuff.

Peeling off the masking I was relieved and pleased in equal measure. 'A' still needs more masking to fill out and shape things some and I now realise - only now! - that the front intakes on 'B' aren't showroom black but a less polished finish. I'll give them a sweep with Rubber Black before moving on to the main magenta strakes. I think I'm now feeling cocky enough to also attempt to paint the various white streaks that adorn the Direction 108 Racing .

 

[longdog]

First off Wankel, I love what you've done to those Huracan shells, but more importantly, what a lovely Lurcher you have! Having had Lurchers and Greyhounds sine 1979, they are my weapon of choice. My current one is a rescue, his cross is uncertain, but probably greyhound x whippet with a hint of Stafford Bull Terrier and yes, mad as a box of frogs but he will do just about anything for me! Wonderful dogs!

 

[GRUNZ]

Excellent job. Especially Lambo A.

 

[Wayward Distraction]

Apologies if I have missed a detail during the course of this fascinating journey that you are on Wankel, but.. have you entertained the idea of applying a clear coat of some sort before decal application? From the photographs you have posted, the - very well applied paint - does seem to have quite a matt finish...

Once decals are on you would then apply another finish coat along the lines discussed in the various posts.

By the way, it's not like I know what I am talking about... as my model making exploits are still residing in my future retirement. But I fink I seen it (pre-decal clear coating) on the internet or summat...