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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started to design a chassis for a Policar Ferrari 312pb white kit bodyshell I bought. It all seemed relatively straight forward in that I would have fun designing my first chassis and I would save a few pennies by using the parts from a scalextric gt lightning car I had. However what surprised me was even re-using motors, guides, gears and axles I am spending almost as much (if not more) as the fully built and painted car direct from Policar. Maybe I am doing it wrong??

That aside it’s a great little project. As much as I am learning about chassis design I am also learning about my printer and the design software I’m currently using. I got the printer at the beginning of this year but only really started using it in late spring. It’s a Flash Fordge Finder. Even though it’s an older model it seemed to fit both my budget and also appeared to be quite user friendly - I did not want another new hobby of building and tweaking printers. The design software I am using is called tinkercad, it’s SaaS from Autodesk. While at first glance it seemed too basic, after a while I was able to do most things with it.

So rather than design many print once I’ve been printing lots!

Black Font Material property Symmetry Pattern


The car runs well, it’s primary role in my set up was to be a pace car for my Porsche 908/3 to race against. So with that in mind it’s fitted with a magnet. However it runs surprisingly well without the magnet so I’ll have fun seeing just how quick it is against the Porsche’s lap times.

As I say the bodyshell is the Policar 312pb, the chassis that goes with this car has a sidewinder motor but the Scalextric components I am using are inline and this has been the main design challenge. Initially the shell rear mounting point interfered with the axle crown gear. I’ve got a workaround which seems to be ok, although I have yet to build the small parts on the bodyshell so may yet have to tweak some more. If you got this far thanks for reading, I was going to post it in scratch building but not really sure where it fits so put it where I knew it would be safe.
 

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Interesting, I agree about wanting a printer to just work rather than being a new hobby in it self, I use a Dremel 3D20 which is actually a slightly modified Flash Forge Dreamer.

What filament are you using? For small detail parts I use Proto Pasta HT carbon it is very good. I am not making slot car parts rather bits and pieces for RC aircraft.

Baz
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am only using pla, not sure anything else is supported by this printer. So far it all holding up ok. I built a few small parts for a caterham and they are all functional not pretty, but they where my first bits, I will redo them in future and I am sure they will be markedly better. It’s the orange one, drivers head, rollbar, windscreen and front mud guards.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design
 

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The cost of a mass-produced slot car is currently between, very roughly, £40-75, give or take here and there.

Again, very roughly, I tend to think of an average home-build costing between £75-110. With scratch- or kit-building, there are always costs that might not be immediately apparent.

Transfers, paint, trips to the B-I-Y (Bodge-It-Yourself) store for bits and pieces all add up, as do postal charges, of course. I recently had to buy a new Dremel, which should last years, but it's not an expense normally associated with off-the-shelf slot cars.

As usual, ya pays yet money and...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The cost of a mass-produced slot car is currently between, very roughly, £40-75, give or take here and there.

Again, very roughly, I tend to think of an average home-build costing between £75-110. With scratch- or kit-building, there are always costs that might not be immediately apparent.
Everyday is a school day, My expectation was the above costs would be reversed. Hey ho…. I guess the next step is to build something that’s not readily available. For now though I still have lots to do to this chassis. Once I’ve settled on the final version above, detailed the shell and run it a bit i will focus on podding - is that’s word? - the motor and rear axle.
 

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As Kevin said, and don't get into printing heaps of one item just what you need at the time otherwise you'll find you will have a lot of superseded parts. I find PLA a good all-rounder for what I make. Building what I want out ways the costs every time.
John.
 

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Another reason why we need a 3DP forum......

TinkerCAD is actually reasonably functional although it took me awhile to adjust my thinking. "Adding" a hole, for instance.

The printer is the investment. The FDM filament printers can do good work once you learn settings and materials differences.

A typical 3DP car I build still needs pod/motor/gears/tires and rear wheels if I will run it competitively.....printed wheels work fine for home use, for me. So the drivetrain can be $40 easily. But as John points out...having CanAm cars in real 1/32 scale I can't otherwise find is very rewarding.
Automotive exterior Table Recreation Motor vehicle Electronic device
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Don’t get me wrong I like the building part, always have. I’ve been into rc cars, planes and helis for more years than I care to remember and really enjoy building. I was just surprised by the cost of build vs buy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another reason why we need a 3DP forum......

TinkerCAD is actually reasonably functional although it took me awhile to adjust my thinking. "Adding" a hole, for instance.

The printer is the investment. The FDM filament printers can do good work once you learn settings and materials differences.

A typical 3DP car I build still needs pod/motor/gears/tires and rear wheels if I will run it competitively.....printed wheels work fine for home use, for me. So the drivetrain can be $40 easily. But as John points out...having CanAm cars in real 1/32 scale I can't otherwise find is very rewarding.
View attachment 282033
Ah bodyshells, now that’s something I am not ready for. Equally I am not sure tinkercad is the right tool for bodywork, the arcs and general shapes would be hard to create.

That’s a very nice collection you’ve got there.
 

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Interesting, I agree about wanting a printer to just work rather than being a new hobby in it self, I use a Dremel 3D20 which is actually a slightly modified Flash Forge Dreamer.

Baz
Baz,
I started with a 3D20. It's a good basic printer, a I have to say that my experience with their customer service was first rate. I had one problem and they sent me the parts immediately, no questions. You are correct, it just works.

The downside of the 3D20 is that it doesn't have a heated bed. That feature really helps with printing different materials and larger items, which is why I went to the Ender3. But a little hairspray helps the Dremel quite a bit and their buildtack plates are phenomenal for the first 3-4 prints. It's a solid printer and a great way to learn.
 

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Hmmm, what price do you put on doing something you enjoy? If you're enjoying it, that is.

A while back I stopped and thought about the cost of glues (Yeah, thanks Tamar - I got a bloomin' gazillion concoctions thanks to you!), paints (Oi, vie! Hiroboy, you're bankrupting me!), kits, decals et al and it didn't take a moment to realise the route I've chosen ain't cheap. And I don't even do 3d shenanigans. :rolleyes:

But it's m' hobby; it's money bloody well invested. (y)
 

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You are most kind, thank you. Those bodies are by another forum member, nimrod444. I did modify his 908 to make a turbo version, but that's as far as I have made it so far Original on the left, my version on the right.
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One important point has been missed with regards to costs is that with any scratch build you are starting with the parts you want where as with a RTR car you will tinker and replace parts and the cost goes up and up. If you can reuse some of the waste parts it helps but if not you end up with a lot of waste just taking up space.
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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Another reason why we need a 3DP forum......
I have requested it and I refuse to post my 3D stuff hidden away under 'Tracks & Scenery' whereas HRW and SCI have 3DP specific forum sections where I'm more than happy to post my 3D stuff.
 

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Building cars from Scratch and high performance tuning is always more expensive than any RTR car, but as has been pointed out, normally is done for the cars not so easy to find(like the 356s, rare Can Am, etc). One thing I do to lower costs is buy white kits, they come with almost everything you need for S&B(axles, rims, tyres, motor, gears, screws, motor mount, etc), and you can keep the body and chasis for a while and see if it is of use or you can always sell it or give it as gift to someone.

I just sold like 15 chasis with motors, wires, wheels, guide etc, I had from Scaley cars to a friend who likes slotizing static cars for Home use, he got all of them for about 30usd, and that money went to high performance spares. Also some dealers give a Special discount for club members and others give special prices on preorders of spares(that way they have no surplus /money stuck in the store/shelfs😉, so its a win-win for everyone).

Eventually and without noticing, after some years tuning /building cars I have about (800-1000 usd) invested in spares, decals, paints, etc., that is everytime available in my slot car garage(that way theres no shortage of spares for competition😁) and helps keeping the edge for the Team(I know its only slot cars, but I try to keep it real as posible).

Cheers
 

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Alan Wilkinson
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I only buy parts to build a car when the components needed for a class of racing are not included in the RTR
Eg my NSR mosler pair.
Both have 25k King blue motors, blue chassis and red/orange lightweight pre coloured bodies with lexan crystalwork and lexan interior, none of which can be found in an RTR version.

I will often buy a car to strip for parts when the class format uses factory fit parts
Eg policar classic f1. The cost of the motor and gearbox is high so buying a complete car and getting spare body, chassis , guide and screws is better way to go when you need a new motor and gearbox.

I often buy cars with a plan to refit and reuse parts.
eg, A 2021 purchase was the poiicar ferrari 330 p3 white kit,
The car was bought to take the fight to the grid full of thunderslots at London slot car club.
The si-mx16 motor was removed to be used in a (race winning) 6hour DiSCA oxigen digital car (a black arrow gt3 italia) and the policar ferrari retro-fitted with an inline transmission and NSR King 30 motor.

Alan



Alan
 

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Alan, how did your Ferrari perform against those Thunderslots?
 
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