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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now available! Built by MMK Production for TSRF, a complete and intricate body kit with etched metal parts, extensive decals, available pre-painted or un-painted.
Complete information here.

 

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Allan Wakefield
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Exquisite work!

Man I am glad I am not into 1/24th scale as much as 1/32 or I seriously WOULD be in trouble.

Which Plafit Chassis will it suit Mr P? Assuming that was the one of choice as opposed the the TSRF24.

I hear there is a new 1/24 Plafit Chassis about to hit the shops.

From the picture it looks like it would be a tight fit for a sidewinder?
 

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@ Dr. P. - are the instructions available now? After my holidays I want to finish that car - -on a TSRF-chassis!
@ Swiss - both Jörg and I have one of these 1/24-kits
- when you want to join us for 1/24-racing?

For this car you should use an inliner-configuration if you want to use an other chassis - -no sidewinders! It's extreme tight! And Plafit is not always the best solution!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Thomas,
I will E-mail you the current instructions but they will be up-dated as it goes. I really need to build one of them things first and take pics.
Best regards,

Dr. Pea

P.S. I love my C36! What a nice little car. It's just a bit noisy and rough but it is nonetheless comfortable. Great everyday driver with collectibility potential.
 

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Russell Sheldon
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Looking good, Philippe!

The wheels / tyres don't quite fit flush with the sides of the body though. Does the TSRF24 chassis require longer axles for this body?

I hope that the 1/32nd scale version will be available soon!

With kind regards

Russell
 

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@ Dr. Pea - I'm missing my C36 sometimes - but actually I love to drive with the Pajero - lot's of space! And as a contrast Evelyn offered me an extended weekend in Monaco - with a brandnew Lotus Elise 111R

I think I don't need Monaco, just roads to drive with that car - better name it a Kart with roof and 2 seats! best british car actually available - IMHO!

@ Russel - you need longer Axles - I think the information will be part of the instructions?
 

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Allan Wakefield
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QUOTE @ Swiss - both Jörg and I have one of these 1/24-kits - when you want to join us for 1/24-racing?

Aha! we wondered who made them! All becomes clear.


As for joing you for some 1/24 LMP racing - I have that in hand
PLUS a rival for your Maranello albeit a little older
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Thomas,
If you run ANY "glue" (traction compound) on your tracks, the 1/24-scale TSRF chassis will have too much grip with the sponge tires and will "tilt" (lift on its side and de-slot). The simple and effective remedy for this is simply to cut down on the width of the actual tire contact patch as shown in this picture, as it makes a huge difference:



This cutting down of the tires made the cars much more predictable and a full second faster on both a King and a Hillclimb track with "spray glue" applied.
Regards,

Dr. Pea
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Hi Dr Pea,

We don't allow any 'glue' or other compounds on any of the tracks so not an issue but a good tip!

I have a question related to cutting down tyres..

I have a 1/24 Testors Ferrari Testarossa that my son is building, it will run on one of your TSRF24 chassis BUT - the front wheels/tyres are too large in diameter. Do you have any advice on how to trim these down? being held onto the axle with the 'c' clips so they turn free on the axle is presenting a problem.

I also wonder if you have a fix for the fact that the fronts are about 3 mm too wide for the front of the Testarossa?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You mean a plastic model kit?
The TSRF front tires are 1" in diameter, or 24" in scale, and 1/2" wide or 12" in scale, a pretty standard combination for modern racing cars as well as vintage. The real TR front tires (if we are talking about a 1986 to 1992 TR of course) were 25.5" and 9" wide. So the question is "why would they not fit? I guess I can predict the answer: the body is lowered for racing... so the "road" grond clearance is reduced to a point where the body interferes with the front tires, correct?

Since the wheels are 18" in scale, this is going to be tough to do. I would recommend that you find a smaller and narrower wheel/tire combination and drill a new axle hole through the steel pan, then solder a brass axle tubing.

Or, get a more suitable body...
Regards,

Dr. Pea
 
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