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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes, another "why don't I learn?" Fly topic. I talked myself into a Fly M3 with lights. Beautiful car and very quick on our track. The system lasted a week. As far as I could tell the circuit was good from the capacitor out to all the lights. The Professor had only one lit car and I opted to persist (this isn't brain surgery, I reasoned). (Stupidly). So he ordered the card from Fly and after I installed it, all was well until this evening (A week). I am running a Sport set-up with dual wall warts and P.M. controllers. The lit scaleys are all functioning well. Are capacitor lights very delicate? Again, the circuit is good from the capacitor out (I watched as it discharged this time). All connections are solid as are the wires unbroken. I don't see any bridging or obviously burnt components (either board). Would it be possible to power the capacitor through a resistor rather than the board's "black box" on the circuit ahead of the capacitor? If so, what value resistor is advised to charge a 5.5v .22f capacitor? Or should I simply remove the system and chalk the extra $20 to my own stupidity?

Kicking myself (again)
 

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The Overdrive kit I put into my old Scaley Ferrari SWB went down very quickly. Nothing seems broken, but the lights went from full power (great!) to a pale glimmer (hmmm) to nowt (bugger!) in a day or so. Having no clue about electrics, I assumed some powerful force I don't comprehend was at work. Plenty of other projects to work on.
But maybe this is a more widespread problem?
Trouble is I wouldn't know a capacitor from a resistor if they both stopped kicking Harry and started on my big end.
 

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I am very worried to hear this, since I have a £40 pre-order on the next Fly Viper with lights. To be honest I find £40 difficult to justify as it is, but especially if the lights only last a week. For £40 I expect something pretty special.

I also run Scalextric Sport track at home.


I for one would certainly like to hear if anybody else has experienced this problem.

JS
 

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Harry Porsche,

On the board are there anything that look like this???
transistor.gif p1199c.jpg
If there are examine them closely under a magnifying glass, can you see any small pin prick holes in the outer casing??? If there are then thats the problem.......most can be had from RS, or me if you give me the part number, your address and we have it at work!!!
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Firstly he problem is NEVER attributable to simply manufacturers track.
Power supply, resistance, hard crashes, bad installation methods and parts failure are far more commonly the case. That said...

Fly lights have never been reliable and are always badly installed and made.

Scalextric have a tendancy for one LED to fail, especially after a hard crash and they are not permanent. However, the Margate crew have a great customer service department and will send replacements fast.
(not available as stand alone extras)

SCX are very bright but unprotected and a current surge or high volt supply can and WILL burn them out fast.(not available as stand alone extras)

Carrera - better but big and heavy although the ones with the 575 seem improved. (not available as stand alone extras)

Slot.It lightkits are good but the rears can be low in light level and I have one set go down within three weeks. They are also really only designed for Slot.it cars.

Ninco are limited in use (short wires and basic options) but seem reliable.

Kelvin light are fine but hard to get these days and are also basic with compatibility issues between LEDs at times (different shades of white for example)

Overdrive seem to the be best all round, with vast options and usually constant high quality. However the mentioned quality has risen many fold in the last year so it is possible (if you got an older set) that you could get a problem.
However, with Overdrive you can always talk to them via email and you will find them more than happy to solve your problems. Apart from Slot.it ( and Scalextric as mentioned) I know of no other manufacturer of lights that offers this without putting the burden on the point of sale outlet.

The problem you have with trying to repair these yourself is the fact that unless you are confident AND fast, the heat from the soldering iron will cause yet more damage to the board and the parts on it.
NB: This is particularily so for the tiny SMD leds that come from Overdrive for the interior lights BTW, you HAVE to be accurate and fast when connecting the wires.

Harry email me and I will get you an Overdrive replacement for the Fly lights, which will be an easy swap.

IMO opinion NO currently supplied car with lights is worth the extra, you are far better off spending the extra on an aftermarket set designed to suit the car style perfectly.

Example? Harrys Fly with a 20 Dollar Overdrive kit would see it on the track with four fronts and rear brake and tail lights whilst 25 will get you this (If you add an additional bit of installation time)

 

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Well, I have just spoken to Harry Porsche via PM and have come to some sort of conclusion!!

IF, the component he suspects has blown, a reverse polarity protection diode (S1M) then it may not be for reason you are thinking. It could be as a result of the back EMF of the motor, ie when it is running as a generator, blowing said diode.

If someone is brave enough, they could try fitting 2 diodes into the power leads between their light set and motor so that they only conduct TO the motor and not the other way round, so that means the 'banded'/ marked end of the diode has to be towards the motor.........someone please try it, cos I dont have many cars with lights!!!
 

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Sorry to hear that man! I thought the replacement from the Prof would sort the problem
. Maybe the manufacturers should go back to the old-school way - normal light bulbs! They were way simpler and if the bulb blows, just change it!
Let us know how it goes man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all for your responses. I will try to nail this down tomorrow after a visit to the component store. If this repair holds well, I'll lite up some more cars. Nice lites really dress the cars up for me
and make for great low-light racing in the enduros. (It's also an opportunity to throw MORE money at a given car, thereby extending the insanity!)

Plowing through!
 

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Rob
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Maybe I've been lucky (and am just about to jinx it!!) but I've had a Fly BMW with lights for nearly a year and it still works. The car has been thrashed, bashed and crashed quite regularly and has survived. My Merc truck still has it's lights despite regular abuse too.
Maybe they're not all bad?

But if they did go wrong I'd definitely look at the overdrive kits because the prices for replacement Fly lights are mad.

Rob
 
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