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Thanks Heath and Frank, just to say I am working on a 16mm x 8mm decoder to address precisely the same requirement… i.e. fitting O2 compatible decoders into F1 classic cars. I hope to have hardware demonstrators running in the next 3-6 months. Initially this will use my own proprietary ESB protocol for endurance testing the hardware design. Once I have a high level of confidence in the new hardware, I will then seek help from Maurizio and his team in fine tuning compatibility with the O2 ecosystem. Maurizio and his team are digital slotcar rockstars in my opinion - all interactions to date, whether as a customer or as a future potential collaborator, have been immensely enjoyable.

c
 

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ParrotGod
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Impressive work Frank. I am seriously considering a trip to melbourne once this current outbreak is under control again. Likewise, if you happen to pass by auckland, you are more then welcome to visit us. We race on Wed nights.
 
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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Thanks Grunz - appreciated.
You are more than welcome to visit but I suggest there is no hurry at all. I still have a considerable amount of work to do just to get the cars running let alone making the whole setup look good. I'm still somewhat restrained in what I can do following the knee replacement, especially getting under the track to install the electronics and wiring.

As for coming to Auclkand, thanks for the offer and it would be nice but it won't happen in the foreseeable future Maybe one day - we will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
Further to my post #192 and #196 which described my proposed systems for both Pit Bay Isolation and for Anti Collision at LCs, I've finally finished building the 11 boards I need. This covers 6 LCs, 4 pit bays and the last simple board is for the pit lane entrance. I'll paint the track first and then start the installation process under the track and do all the wiring in conjunction with laying and hooking up the braid.

Does anyone have any good suggestions on how to mount the LC boards with the IR receiver under an MDF track. I'd like to be able to fairly easily relocate these boards if the distance I have estimated before the flipper proves to be either too long or too short.
279036
 

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ParrotGod
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Look impressive Frank! Well done.
As for placement of the IR boards, I would suggest to go first with some blu-tack (or the black tack which is stronger but the blue one should do) until you are satisfied with the distance from the flipper.
Then I would consider some small screws to fix them slotting the screw heads in the U recesses on each side of the board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Thanks Grunz.
I've not actually heard of Black-Tac so I'll hunt around and see what I can find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
Now that I'm getting close to laying the braid and starting on the wiring, I'd be interested in the different (or best) ways of connecting power to the braid. I have tinned copper braid and it already has the double sided adhesive attached so it's simply a matter of peeling off the paper covering and laying it down. Apart from the pit bays which will obviously need quite a few connections, I plan on having several more connection points at various intervals around the track. These will all be hooked to a heavy duty cable going back to the power pack.

No doubt there are many effective ways to do this but I'm thinking a short (say 100 - 150mm) piece of hookup wire soldered to the braid and connecting to the main bus might be a feasible solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Status update.
Progress has been slower than I would have liked but recovery from a total knee replacement does take time and slows an old bloke down. On top of that, I managed to get a partial tear in the quad in the same leg a week ago.

Anyway to the important stuff. I have finished laying the braid for one lane. All the wiring and power taps are in place and the cars run just fine. I can't say I'm overly pleased with the grip on latex paint. I sanded the paint between coats and at the end so it's reasonably smooth. I've also sanded the tyres on the cars but there is still considerable slide out on the corners. Maybe different tyres would help.

I tested all the anti collision and pit bay isolation boards prior to installation. Pic in post #204 above. Hopefully they still all work on the track. I won't be able to test that till I finish installing the pit bay isolation boards and finish laying the braid. I have two LEDs hooked up the relay output on each of these boards. The LCs have a green to indicate the LC is clear to go and a yellow to indicate the AC system is active and you can't change lanes. The pit bays have a green and a red. Green to indicate vacant and red to indicate occupied. Apart from the aesthetics, these serve to tell me that the hall effect sensors and the relays are doing their job

I do have one concern which is the un-powered exits to the LCs, particularly the ones on a curve. Even a small slide and the car stops on the exit. There may be a couple of options to rectify this. I could install a brass plate on the exit and switch the polarity as per the entry flipper. However, I'm not sure the Ninco setup of 300ms would be sufficient time for the car to pass completely through the LC. Alternatively, I could buy and install a few more of the O2 LC boards so that I could switch the polarity to the fixed brass plate on the exit (see pics). But the O2 boards are not cheap and I'd need at least 4 or 5, maybe 7 of them. I'm also wondering if it were possible to get some of the O2 boards that have the IR receiver and wire them in parallel to the first IR receiver board. These would be placed approx 100mm before the LC exit. In either of these last two options, the button on the controller would need to be held down until the car is just about through the LC slot.

I'd welcome other suggestions.

The pics.
#1. The mess at the moment.
#2. LC LEDs. I'll set them up so they light up a small square of perspex trackside.
#3. Hall Effect Sensors - under the braid. Switch the unit that cuts power to the LC solenoid.
#4 & #5. LC exits that need power with polarity switching. Power taps can be seen soldered to the braid. These holes will be filled and painted.
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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
I'm pretty pleased with today's progress. I managed to install 4 separate 12V regulated power supplies at different points around the track. Each of these provide power to between 2 and 4 of the LC and isolation boards. The LCs are now powered as are the AC circuits. Everything is working as planned. I only had one issue that gave me some momentary grief. All the AC circuits hooked to one particular 12V power supply did not work at all at the start. Hmm, I hadn't pushed the plug into the 240V socket hard enough so no power.

A few more days work and hopefully the track should be fully functional. Then tidy up a few things here and there and start thinking about how I want it to look scenery wise.
 

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ParrotGod
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Do not worry about the grip now, Frank. Once you start running your cars it will get there.
Also, you need good tyres: Slot.it N22 and NSR supergrip are the way to go. But you will need to glue and true them. And some oil treatment will bring lots of grip.
On the other hand, I am a bit concerned about the curved LC: I cannot picture why a sliding car should stop on the exit flipper - surely it must carry enough momentum to pull it out of the dead zone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Hi Grunz,
Thanks, I'll get some of those tyres you mentioned. I'm not sure what you mean re oil treatment on the tyres. I've read that WD40 wiped on with a rag helps a lot and I presume contact glue is what is used to glue the tyres to the wheels.

As for the car stopping on the LC exit, that's most likely just me as a learner driver. Most times it's ok, the car only stops when it spins right out on the dead part of the LC exit.
 

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ParrotGod
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NSR sells a special oil for treating tyres: you put a smidge of oil on the tyres and the using your fingers you push into the tyres until fully absorbed. The oil makes the tyres softer increasing grip.
Best when the the tyres are already glued and trued on the wheels.
I can see that the exit part of the LC is quite long so if the car does not enough inertia might not roll out of the dead spot. Of course, spinning the car around does not help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
Ah Grunz, I continue to learn about things I've never heard of. I'll check out the NSR oil for the tyres. Thanks.

The LC I was talking about is the first pic where the curves are tight. I haven't tried the longer one yet as I still need to get the braid down but there are others with much longer exit dead spots where the car goes right through without a problem. I'd like to figure out a way to cover those exits with brass so that I can change the polarity when the LCs are in use. As mentioned above, I could invest in more O2 LC boards but that's expensive.
 

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Hey Frank. So good to see your progress on this. Love what you are doing with the pit lanes.

I agree with Gio, Track grip will come as you drive cars on it, and the track gets”rubbered in.” I found that Urethane tires work great on my track. I painted my track surface with acrylics, so your mileage may very, but probably worth a shot.

I also found that turning the car power down quite a bit helped make the cars a lot more controllable.

I use clear nail polish to glue tires. Sticks well and not too hard to remove when you need to.

Heath
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
Gidday Heath,
Thanks for the kind words. Yep, I've read many places that it will take quite a while for the track to get rubbered in. As for the paint, acrylic is just another word for latex, depends what country you're in.

I'll try turning the power down as there's way to much at the moment with 12 volts. I can just get to pull the trigger on full and have to immediately let go on the main straight. Otherwise..............

And so many tips on how to do different things - tyre oil, nail polish as glue - all sounds good.

Cheers.
 

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ParrotGod
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hi Frank
I was worried that the main culprit was that LC in the tight corner. The lane change is very abrupt: I was wondering if you could have taken the approach as in Carrera curved lane changers where the first half of the lane changer is the straight part gently taking the car in the middle of the two lanes and the curving to meet the corner exit.

Just to be clear, oil works only on rubber tyres, not on urethane. Also for rubber tyres when glued on allu wheels better using a glue...but for NSR tyres some glues are too aggressive and might split it.
Another aspect to consider is the motor RPMs: I am using for my digital racing on scalex sport the 17K long can motor at 11.3 v which is plenty. I know that some run they track even at 10V.
Basically try to find a good balance between speed and flow. I am assuming here that your lane changers are not powered by the same power supply as the lanes. Going below 12V might be too low for them to operate correctly.
Anyway, i do not want to derail this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Hi Grunz,
If you go right back to the start of this thread, you'll see that I had a lot of input from some people into the track design and where the LCs should be. At that stage, I really didn't know what I should be doing - probably still don't. I actually removed some of the recommended LCs as I didn't want to spend a fortune on the O2 boards. So you are right, things could have been better.

I experimented with track voltage yesterday, Right now, I'm running on 9V and that's plenty. Maybe in time as I get a bit better, I can up it a bit. And yep, I have totally separate 12V power supplies for the LCs. There are actually 4 of them powering between 2 and 4 LCs each. Why 4, because I had them sitting around and they are spaced out around the track so I don't have an absolute rats nest of wiring. That said, I probably have more wiring than most tracks when you consider the number of Hall Effect Sensors I have installed.
 

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ParrotGod
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I know that you had a lot of inputs. I think that with routed tracks there is almost an unlimited degree in curve designs that you can have...This is also applied when it comes to curve LCs.
Also sometimes the design on paper does not necessarily translate into a good implementation. It is part of the learning curve and experience and all of that.
 
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