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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Thanks to Tamar and Grunz for their advice on signage and logos, the pit garage is coming along nicely. Pics of completed unit with lights in the next 2 - 3 days.

While doing that, I've also attempted to get a ghost car going with no success so I must be doing something wrong. Following the Oxigen manual:-
I have the latest firmware for the SCP3 controller and the B2 car chips.​
The magnets are installed under the 9mm thick MDF and the "S" pole is facing up.​
I put the car on the track before the finish line.​
Press the up and down buttons at the same time for 2 seconds (Set car in recording mode).​
Drive one lap, cross the finish line and stop.​
Press the up and down buttons for 2 seconds.​
Lift the car off the track and switch the controller OFF.​
Put the car back on the track-​
And NOTHING happens. The car is supposed to "Ramp up to speed for 0.5 seconds".

What I have noticed after going through the above procedure, when I put the car on the track (controller off) before the magnet, the red LED on the B2 chip is on solid. If I push the car across the magnet, the LED goes off but after 5 - 6 seconds, it blinks three times and then stays on.

Help, what am I missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Thanks Greg, that's what I missed.

But being a bit of a neanderthal with mobile phones, I'm having a bit of trouble. I managed to download the zip file but at this stage, I haven't been able to unzip it. Assuming I get that sorted, what is the process for getting it on the B2 chip. I'm guessing it will show up on the Slot.it app.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Give the slot.it app a try, but you might need to use the nRF Toolbox app from Nordic Semiconductors to install the firmware. If the firmware in the chip is not already an app-ready version, the app won't see it. Once you get it installed using the nRF Toolbox app, you'll need to then use the slot.it app to register the chip to activate it. Refer to the oXigen Base Description (manual) for guidance on using the Toolbox app to install firmware, which was how it was done prior to the slot.it app being able to handle that. I've also done a couple videos that show how to do it. This one might help (though it's not for the autonomous firmware, the process is the same).
 

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ParrotGod
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Hi Frank
Use this as an opportunity to get familiar with the app and the process of registering devices and updating their firmware.
Software needs to evolve and be maintained, There is no such a thing as "get it right at first time" - each version is always an approximation to the ideal solution.
People claiming otherwise do this because either do not have engineers time to update/rewrite software or do not have enough users/testers to find issues or a combination of both.
Definitely not the case with Slot.it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Hi Greg & Grunz,
There's a bit of confusion here. It was some time back that I actually bought a new mobile phone. My old one wouldn't load the latest version of the Slot.it app. I was then able to get my controllers and cars all registered and activated and updated to the current firmware. Now everything is running just fine.

The issue I have now is with the software to run an autonomous car. On p15 of the B2 and C in car chips manual, it says to load the firmware whose name ends in ATC......... Because this is in the chip manual, I assumed this firmware had to go on the B2 chip in the car. Now having done some research, it seems it goes on the laptop and works with the Dongle. Nowhere have I seen any instruction on this process.

Correct me if I'm wrong again but it seems that I need to have the Oxigen app running on my laptop with the ATC firmware also installed to get the autonomous side of things working. Some clearer instruction would be helpful.
 

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ParrotGod
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Disclaimer: I have not played around with the autonomous car firmware, but my understanding is that this is a special firmware that goes into the chip. You will need to have it available on the app s that you can install into the chip. That is as far as my knowledge goes on this matter.
 

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Greg Gaub
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OK, chips registered and up to date. Good.
I didn't think the ATC firmware would be in the app, but I just checked (v1.5.1) and it shows up.
So, using the slot.it app (make sure you have latest version), connect to the chip and go to DFU and see if the ATC firmware is in there. If so, flash the chip with it. Then you should be able to follow the instructions as you tried earlier to program and run the ghost car. Remember to drive conservatively.

The bootloader instructions are for older versions, before the app and stuff, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
I finished the wiring on the pit garage this afternoon so here are some pics from afternoon into night when the floodlights and garage lights come on.

Wheel Tire Automotive lighting Automotive tire Fixture


Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Need the floodlights

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Car


And lights in the garage

Automotive lighting Automotive design Rectangle Font Automotive exterior



Land vehicle Tire Wheel Car Vehicle



Tire Automotive lighting Vehicle Motor vehicle Car
 

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The Pit Garages look great Frank, did you got a free pass then, or did you have the stuff laying around. Love the availability LED's mounted in the garage walls.

Regards

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
Thanks Mark,
I didn't have to go out at all. I had everything I needed left over from years of model train stuff and other projects so the whole thing has cost me absolute zip. I have to thank Tamar and Grunz for their advice on getting the advertising logos. They are just paper printouts stuck with gluestick.

I have to say I'm pretty pleased with the way the floodlights turned out. They light up the cars better than I expected. I've also wired in a trim pot for the garage lights so I can adjust the brightness as required.

Cheers
 

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ParrotGod
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The garage lights look extremely good. One thing to consider: why not having the logo glued on a plastic support that is fixed by magnets for instance on the garage walls?
In this way you can easily change them and customize them to the racing period of the cars you are racing. For instance, for modern LMP cars I would use the logos of the teams or pit bay numbers as done in more modern settings. Something like this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
The Melbourne Covid lockdown continues to drag on and on............... Shops are closed and I have a 5Km travel limit.:mad::mad::mad:

I still can't go out to get the electronics supplies I need to finish powering the LC exits. (Tamar, if you read this, I have a solution that works in conjunction with the O2 LC boards).

So having built the pit garage, I needed something else to do. I started with rumble strips on the first three corners. Nothing complicated, just some paint and a bit of masking tape. I had some spare green paint that will serve as simulated grass until I plan and build the actual scenery. It does serve to delineate the actual road outline much better than all the grey paint. At least, I have something constructive to do for the next few days.

Wood Building Urban design Composite material Landscape
 

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ParrotGod
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Very nice. How do you cut the masking tape for making the white demarcation lines? They look really good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
Hi Grunz,
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the white demarcation lines are not painted. They are done with 3mm pin stripe tape. There is no way I would attempt masking up 2 x 22 metres to paint them. The tape was easy to lay down. It just needed a bit of care going around the tighter corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
I finally got around to placing the magnets under the track at the start / finish line. Now I have a couple of questions.

I see an "L" show on the SCP3 controller when the cars go over the magnets. I presume this is normal but I don't recall reading about this anywhere. Secondly, the cars make a small click sound as they pass over the magnets. Interestingly, it seems louder on one lane than the other. Again, I haven't noticed anything documented on this.
 

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Greg Gaub
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L indicates that the controller received the lap detection/count from the car.
I'm not sure what the click is. Can you identify exactly where it's coming from? Car or track? How did you mount the magnet? Is it glued to the wood?
 

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ParrotGod
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Mr Flippant has already answered the question on the L. Do you have Chrono installed? You could start timing you track now.
As for the click you are hearing...where on the track did you mount the magnets? Maybe far-fetched but if the magnets are too close to the centerline might pull down the motor down causing the chassis to scrape the track.
 
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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Thanks guys.
The "L" was pretty obvious.

I changed the position of the magnets to ensure they were outside the centreline. The clicks have gone away. What you proposed Grunz makes sense. If I pushed the cars slowly across, there were no clicks. If I drove slowly as well, just a faint click but at speed, it was very noticeable.

I'd originally just taken a guess as to where they should be mounted so they were not in the correct position. They are now.
 
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