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ParrotGod
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hi Frank
Good to see progress on the landscape...I wonder how you can do work on the landscape without putting in laps after laps ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
Hi Grunz,
Quite simply, I can't. I have to curtail my enthusiasm while stuff dries and I clean up the mess on the track. I'ts going to be harder soon as I have some new Group C cars coming and I'll be wanting to drive them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Yep, for sure. I have to admit though that I have always really enjoyed creating something worthwhile. I enjoyed building my RC planes and yachts more than actually flying or sailing. That said, I'll get more out of the cars as I don't have to prepare and travel to have fun. I can just go downstairs and drive whenever I want.
 

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ParrotGod
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That is what I like about slotcars - as long as you have a track at home.
No matter the weather, traffic etc. Just go in your slotcar room and pull some laps or work on the track or the cars...the possibilities are endless.
And this is also a reason why I have not got bored with it (yet).
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 ·
That's it exactly. There are a myriad of tasks in front of me. I still need to get PClapcounter operational, get the autonomous cars running, finish the landscaping (although that will probably never end), restore some old 1960's cars, set up new cars etc, etc. Raining here today and the next few days so I have the opportunity to do more on the track without being distracted by other "necessary" tasks if you get my drift.
 

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ParrotGod
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Ah I see. RCS64 (the version for SSD) had an excellent support for ghost cars. I know that a new release of RCS-O2 is in the book, but not sure about ghost cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Hi Grunz and DaveLat,
I'm planning the process for installing lights in a few cars and need just a little advice please. I've read your posts in Slot it Chip Lighting which was a big help and I've drawn up what I hope is the correct wiring diagram for the B2 chips - see pic.

My questions are pretty basic:-
1. Have I got it right or have I missed something.
2. What resistor values did you use for the front, rear and brake wires. I'm using SMD LEDs.
3. What wattage resistors do I use. Obviously smaller the better.
4. Am I correct in using the micro 3 pin JST connector. I need to get these.

I notice Grunz that you would like to add a capacitor to keep the lights on after a de-slot. Would it be feasible to add a cap of suitable rating across the +ve and -ve wires just after the JST plug. The rating on the cap on the unit in the SP16 kit is 5.5V at 0.1F. Looking online, apparently they are some form of super capacitor but seem readily available.

Slope Rectangle Parallel Font Technology
 

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Nope, from memory, I think it was you who told me that RCS-02 doesn't support ghost cars.
RCS-O2 doesn't support ghost cars, last time I spoke to Marcel about it he said they had to plans to do so in the foreseeable.

Hi Grunz and DaveLat,
I'm planning the process for installing lights in a few cars and need just a little advice please. I've read your posts in Slot it Chip Lighting which was a big help and I've drawn up what I hope is the correct wiring diagram for the B2 chips - see pic.

My questions are pretty basic:-
1. Have I got it right or have I missed something.
2. What resistor values did you use for the front, rear and brake wires. I'm using SMD LEDs.
3. What wattage resistors do I use. Obviously smaller the better.
4. Am I correct in using the micro 3 pin JST connector. I need to get these.

I notice Grunz that you would like to add a capacitor to keep the lights on after a de-slot. Would it be feasible to add a cap of suitable rating across the +ve and -ve wires just after the JST plug. The rating on the cap on the unit in the SP16 kit is 5.5V at 0.1F. Looking online, apparently they are some form of super capacitor but seem readily available.

View attachment 287170
Frank, Gio is more knowledgeable on this subject than me but the only thing I see different in your schematic to my lights is the brake resistor is not required. Just connect the yellow to the LED side of the Red (+) on the rears, job done.
The resistor value will depend on which LED's you use, I make the fronts as bright as possible and the rears dull enough make the brake lights obvious. I use this site to calculate my resistor sizes.


More often than not I will use 1KW resistor for the rears.

Hope this helps

Dave
 

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ParrotGod
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Hi Frank
I am with Dave: I do not use resistors for the brake. I just solder the yellow wire after the resistor for the tail lights.
1K resistor is about right for the rear lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 ·
Thanks guys,
Interesting that you both say that no resister is required for the yellow brake wire. That would indicate the resistance is applied somehow on the 02 board which makes sense really.

I'll make up a test rig and experiment with some different values - see what works / looks the best. I might get one of those super caps and try that to see if I can get the lights to stay on after a de slot. I'm just not sure if there are any other components required as per the board in the SP16 kit. We will see.
 

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ParrotGod
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If you get the capacitor then you will need to diodes(?) to make sure that current flows in the right direction.
One thing that you need to keep in mind is that with the lights taking power directly from chip, you can see if the car loses power (like stopping on dead spot) because the lights will go off.
If you put a capacitor then this visual cue is gone.
The best option would be to have the lights flashing when power is being supplied by the capacitor.
 

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ParrotGod
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Good question. I know that is doable as Z-machine lightkits can do that.
But what are the actual components to do that I am not sure...something for the good doctor I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #319 ·
Yep, the know how for flashing lights is out of my league.
I'd be very interested if Dr_C could provide advice (update my schematic) on what other components (diodes ?) need to be installed with the 5.5V 0.1F cap to keep the lights on.
 
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