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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I leant something very important today (Thanks Twigman). The lapcounter in ARCPro requires that it must *first* detect the (black) slot guide, *then* reads the ID from the IR LED. This means that you can't put the LED ahead of the slot guide, using a SureChange guide (for example). This was bad news. That was to be my solution for my front motor cars (Fly: Panoz GT & LMP, Dodge Viper, Corvette C5). I don't care for moving the motor, but... Anyway, I wonder how others have digitised these cars. My track plan puts at least a half straight before each lane changer; might I get away with placing the IR LED behind the front motor - 25 to 30mm behind the tail of the slot guide?
 

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Greg Gaub
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Have you had an opportunity to review the SSD chipping database?

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22159

There you'll find how people did it long before the SureChange guide was produced. The index is a good place to start if you have a specific car you're looking to chip, but it's not up to date, so you might want to scroll through the whole thread. Of course, some photos will have been lost over time and due to Photobucket, but there are still a lot of photos in there to assist with guidance and inspiration.
 

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Andy Player
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Sadly a lot of the pictures have gone from the SSD chipping database, but there is loads of good info in there. The gist for the front-motored cars was (in the pre-SureChange days) to place the LED behind the motor. There's a discussion here, including a mention of the two-part lap counting process (twelve years ago).

That arrangement does put the LED a long way back. However, I find this post really useful, where Tamar talks about the distances from guide pivot to LED in relation to chipping an NSR motor pod. He says that although conventional wisdom suggests a maximum distance of 35mm, the NSR is fine at 37mm and he has run cars with a 40mm gap without any problems.

Taking a quick look at my Monogram Cobra Daytona (with a SureChange guide), an LED immediately behind the motor would be 43mm behind the guide pivot. I'd certainly want the powerbase at the end of a long (& straight) straight and be very precise on pit entry and lane changing. A front-motor class would mean that all drivers face the same challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For the record - I've been corrected on the detail of this elsewhere - apparently, the two things happen simultaneously (guide detection and IR read), but because of the way that the two sensors are arranged in the track, the IR LED must be placed after the guide.
 

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Sigh. Isn't that a backward step, Scaley?
You are right. It doesnt need the guide sensor. Its a waste of effort and money. The system only needs the sensor on the track finish line
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It looks like a hangover from the analogue methodology...
 

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Greg Gaub
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Sigh. Isn't that a backward step, Scaley?
Not for Scalextric. ALL of their digital bases/lap counters have included both the guide and IR sensors. Third party, after-market mods are what removed the guide sensor from the mix, usually through firmware updates to the base.

What's a backward step, for us, is that this new way of linking them together breaks our custom solutions for chipping tricky cars. This was never considered, because people don't, apparently, put chips in front motored cars of other brands. They only use DPR cars any more.
 

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novice jazz player &
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Just a small update on this subject in case anyone is still... I have started a thread on this forum which reports on work I have been doing to update the ARC PRO main track sensor board to introduce compatibility with Surechange guide blades (and similar IR LED configurations). The work has progressed very successfully and I am sure it will hit the market in some way in due course.

Also, I should mention... I have one of the Scalextric Aston Martin DB5s which has an inline motor with no space for an underpan IR LED. I have been thinking for a while how to convert to digital. I am currently looking at a modified version of the Scalextric quick-change guide blade assembly (forgotten the part number)...

Once I have time to assemble and test the modified assembly... I will share photos... However, I believe the combination of an upgraded ARC PRO sensor board and a IR-LED embedded within a quick-change compatible guide blade assembly... will firmly nail this current issue!

C
 

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There has too be room somewhere????
If you can chop an F1 and Scaley motor bikes you can surely do this car?
 

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novice jazz player &
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Hi Rick, this one would be the ultimate challenge to fit a 3mm LED between the rear edge of the guide blade and the front edge of the motor... if I remember correctly the space is exactly 3mm. Also, it is precisely where the front bulkhead/motor mount is located!

So... yes it certainly is do-able with very careful use of a modelling hand drill. This was indeed my plan until I realised...

The approach would still put the IR LED outside the sensor capture range for the ARC PRO.

This leaves two alternatives...

1/ a low profile surface mount IR LED in the correct underpan position i.e. right underneath the motor.
2/ a new guide blade assembly which embeds the IR LED into a format which will easily retro-fit with almost all current Scalextric configurations.

My planned effort votes for 2 and I am really pleased i didnt waste any time drilling into the motor bulkhead which would have certainly ended with disappointment.

;-)

C
 

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novice jazz player &
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And for fun... i have parts on order to convert Scalextric drift guide blade assemblies to include an embedded IR LED i.e. a blade assembly that an rotate 360 degrees multiple times and still carries the IR strobe function. Ultimate compatibility of tail-out, drift and hand-brake turn driving techniques with SSD... more on all of this shortly...

C
 

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novice jazz player &
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just a uick update... fitting the IR LED directly into a modified scalextric guide blade works perfectly! I can cross the finish line with the car angled tail-out by approx 30 degrees and the car registers the laps perfectly!!!

My current configuration for the DB5 uses a 3mm LED rather than the above 2mm LED. I still have to test the version which has a 2mm LED...

Test configuration... ARC PRO with upgraded sensor board which is compatible with SureChange guides and the above type of modified Scalextric guide blade.

C
 

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Living the Life!
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Here are a few pictures of some Fly cars that I have chipped .........

Fly BMW 3.jpg

Depending on the shape of the interior space you might be able to mount the chip as above in this BMW 3. The LED is fitted

behind the motor on the purple/yellow wire.

Fly chassis - F1 chip 02.jpg

Another option. As before the LED is fitted behind the motor.

Fly Chevvy 03.jpg

A thin piece of plastic provides the anchor for the LED.

May Hem 2.jpg

This car need the chip fitting right behind the back axle as there no room any where else for it to go ...

May Hem 3.jpg

Even worse, the LED had to be situated behind the back axle as well. The owner of this car has reported to me that it has not

missed an LC yet ..........
ohmy.png


Some tips:

As with any car that has limited internal space, I would suggest that you shorten the wires to make life easier for yourself.

Fly BMW 3.jpg

The other thing to watch out for with Fly cars is the circuit board that feeds power to the lights via a large capacitor (arrowed) as

this can interfere with the smooth running of the chip itself.
 

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