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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.
During quite a while I raced 1:32 cars but the track closed a few years ago and I no longer have a place to race the cars. As I don't have space for a large track, I have been thinking about building an H0 scale. Is there is a page on the internet with instructions for building one. I'm thinking of using wood, modular like those on trains. I never had an H0 track I don't know the dimensions, what type of electrical installation I need ... I assume it is similar but not the same. I would also like to know if it is possible to use parma controllers and the 12v transformers.
Thank you all, VCR
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Dave. I had already seen this video, and a few more, but it doesn't talk about the technical details. I'm assuming it's not too different from one for 1:32 scale cars ... but there must be a few more differences besides the size.
 

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Rich Dumas
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Try the link again, if you go to the top of the page there is a bar graph, if you move the cursor back a few months you should be able to see the site. I would like to put the PDF version on Google Drive, but it contains copyrighted material.

Building your own HO track with rails is a tricky business, most wood HO tracks use braid, but you have to get the pickup shoes on regular cars to make good contact and unless you use Magnabraid you will have no magnetic downforce, so modern HO cars will be difficult to drive. Here is a video on building a braided track.

If you want a railed track you would have to find a source for the rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for asking. My life is in the midst of quite substantial changes ... I still want to build a track but I see no way that this could happen in the next two or three years :-(
 

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Taping Tyco track

I found 5mm wide, adhesive backed, copper tape at www.hobbytronics.co.uk.

I stripped out the steel rails by gripping and pulling them up with a pair of side cutters.

I cleaned out the rail slots so that there was nothing to catch on the tape when inserted.

I cut a generous length of tape, stripped the backing cover, and holding the copper in gentle tension between thumb and middle finger, fed the tape into the slot with the index finger. It's tricky but you get the knack of it eventually.

It only goes in 2mm so I was able to fold the protruding excess over towards the guide pin slot. I flattened the surface with a hard smooth tool (a stainless table knife handle) to get the adhesive down and any wrinkles out. Curves are trickier but not impossible and need more flattening and stretching to get the smooth surface needed.

The excess tape length is used to wrap a connection between track pieces as they are joined up. It's also tricky as you're working underneath the track as you lay it down.

The end result was worth it though.
 
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