[cube]

Okay this may be a complete newbie question but here goes - essentially a lot of my collection, especially the Ninco classics, just shoot off at the slightest twitch of the throttle and are already beyond their cornering limits at the lowest level of power, really either 'off' or 'on'.

I have just bought 45ohm Parma economy controllers and use Scalextric Sport track and powerbase with two Hornby transformers - so anyway I'm thinking I need a variable power supply? I only have a temporary home track so I don't want to spend a fortune but I spotted this at Pendle:

PSRT1 Variable Output transformer.

Ideal for powering medium to large home circuits.
Can be supplied with wiring harness to connect to Scalextric or Sport Powerbase
DC Regulated Voltage & Current.
Output Voltage can adjust from 0 to 15volts
Output Current can adjust from 0 to 3amp
Overload Ciruit Protection
Size 225mmx95mmx160mm(lxbxh)
Weight 2.5kg

Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks, Cube

 

[LMP]

If your cars are too sensitive, its more likely to be the controller.

Try reverting back to the standard sport controllers, see if its any better. Sport are 60ohm which are less sensitive than the 45 ohm parmas.

 

[RMMseven]

No you are not barking up the wrong tree. Poor control is a common complaint because all of the set power supplies have too much voltage (making most cars too jumpy) and too little amperage (makes motors run hot). The adjustable power supply sounds just about perfect for any 1/32 scale slot car, but it will need to be wired directly into the track, in other words do not use the Sport power base. A more affordable option would be a twleve volt one amp power supply.

The other item to consider is the controllers. For a small temporary track I think a 35 ohm or 45 ohm would work good with the twelve volts. The Parma Economy controller has just been improved with a new nylon trigger making this an excellent controller.

 

[Doug]

I have a 6 amp 0 to 20 volt power supply connected to my 4-lane track through Sport power bases. It works fine and I have full control to run a variety of cars. I let the kids who are likely to crash 'n' smash start off on lower voltages (10V) and then work their way up. I use Parma Eco 25 ohm controllers. Check it out here.

 

[cube]

Nuro, is that the one from Pendle which I quoted the stats from above?

If you run it through the Sport powerbase do you get a connection for each lane to avoid the power surge if the other lane has an off, or is that not relevant for this?

Looks like a nice piece of kit anyway, could definitely impress my friends with it.....

 

[Doug]

I did get it from Pendle. I think mine is one model up from the one in your stats. If you're running only 2 lanes it will be OK, but if you wish to run 4 lanes one day, you'll need at least 6 amps.

I have 4 pairs or 15 amp cable going up from the transformer to each power input socket on the power-bases. The little blue slider swich onthe power-bases are set to twin power so each lane gets its own 'clean' power.

Pendles can supply the Sport power-base plugs too. Just ask.

 

[jonny s]

I wish I had discovered variable PSU`s along time ago. It`s the best favour you can do yourself, buy one now

 

[a Bill]

That problem is the controller. It would also be a very good idea to get a real power supply too but the controller will work miracles for you initially.

 

[astro]

at home I am still having a lot of success with 2 standard scalextric wall-warts and a few controllers, but then I don't have any ninco classics. I have no trouble with the ninco porsche 911 or the pajero though.