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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Guys

Its been more then 15 years since I last modded a 1/32nd car, the last decennium has been spent in larger scale cars (1:24, 1:28) but the Oxigen LM 24 hrs was one event I didn't want to miss.
First of all, I'm a huge LM fan and secondly a fan of Digital racing, done it with both 1/32nd and 1/24 on a Davic system...and boy when the system works its the closest thing to real racing on a slotted track

So testing Slot.it Oxigen digital system real time under full race conditions was an oppertunity I could not resist.

The Event tech rules are quite liberal, almost free chassis (must be plastic) and bodies (GT & LMP) from 2006- present.
This combination made it easy to choose, at least for us...being Dutch and participating in (1/24) European Endurance races under the Racing for Holland banner, some even with a scratch build 1/24 Dome s101


So for the Oxigen race one thing was obvious...we would run in the LMP category with a 1/32nd Dome body, meaning we would need to turn this little toy


into something like this... oh and at the same time try to shoehorn a AW slot.it Flat 6R under a very sleek body, and make room for the Spurgear.

I'll be updating this W.I.P over the next coupple of weeks as the build progresses, our deadline is 30 March


With kind regards
Tamar
Racing for Holland

 

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Anthony Bartlett
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Nice one Tamar - looking forward to watching this as you build it
 

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I don't know if you need any photographs of the car for your project but here are some I took of the car at Silverstone in 2005.







David
 

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Gary Skipp
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I'll be following this thread to see what the competition is like
We have an award for the best presented car in each class so I'm glad we'll have some strong candidates. Looking forward to the build, and seeing the car on the grid!
 

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First Steps, Trail and Error....back to school

You know what they say about how you never forget how to ride a bicycle...well that's true, but getting back into 1/32nd after 15 years....boy oh boy, you guys are running totally different bikes compared to when I learned to ride. Its amazing how many manufacturers and parts suppliers have entered the market since then.
So after the first waves of enthousiasm...it was basically...back to school, learning what was out there...and how out of this myriad of choices..... to pick what we needed for our Dome.

The first pick was easy, getting the SCX Dome... as I knew that somewhere on a club members shelf there was a box with SCX Dome's gathering dust for years.
A quick phone call with a request to donate them to a "just cause" and I had 4 brand new Dome's in 2003 livery on the work bench.
We took the for a quick spin on our Carrera track to get back into the 1/32nd groove...and I must say...straight out of the box they ran quite well....but that's with magnets of course...
All in all the running gear was totally useless for the event in Henley on Arden.

A different horse for a different course
As we had been running 1/24 for the last decade, we've become so used to metal chassis with fully adjustable wheelbase, that it was only logical for us to see if there wasn't something like that in 1/32nd....
...entering the stage left: the HRS chassis, fully adjustable wheelbase, easy to mount all types of bodies. Trow in an aluminium motorbracket, its hard to kick the "metal" habit after 15 years

Handy as the SCX Dome has an inline motor...so lets see....longest possible wheelbase....oops still not long enough.

As you can see the Dome WB is a full 3 mm longer than the HRS

Oh...and BTW in this picture, the rear of the body is resting on the rear axle bushings...and that was after I grinded 0,5 mm of the top of the axle mounts...

..meaning there would be no room for any body play and/or suspension travel....
.... so, HRS chassis: exit stage right


back to the drawingboard

P.S

David thx for the pictures, I've got plenty of ref material here but this one you posted was missing...and it is very helpful

For here is perfect proof that RfH 1/1 has raised the rear of the motor cover significantly compared to the 2003/ SCX version.
Above it runs almost flat with the rear fenders as with the SCX it is much lower


To be continued
 

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I guess you have all the pictures wich I have too so with that I can't help you. But I found this site wich shows the RfH pitbox. In it is a picture of the rear/engine/diffuser. Maybe it helps with your measurements. (Though LM 2004)

RfH Dome LM 2004

The difference in the height and length of the body, SCX vs 1:1, could lay in fact that for LM the bodies are often longer, raised, lowered, flattened or whatever to reduce the drag. Because the very long straights and the need of high speeds instad of downforce. (Compare also the SCX Ferari SP333 the the 1:1 "Giesse".)
I remember that Jan Lammers was always very happy in May when, at the last moment, Dome send the requested bodyparts
. To start quickly, fight a few battles with the Audi's and then fall back in the field because off a silly exaust gasket or something other stupid thing. Not to mention a very Yoong
driver who forgot that the ACO had made some chicanes on the Mulsanne Straight.

You can also find differences on the testdays, qualifying and the race.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (Dagobert II @ 8 Mar 2012, 21:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The difference in the height and length of the body, SCX vs 1:1, could lay in fact that for LM the bodies are often longer, raised, lowered, flattened or whatever to reduce the drag. Because the very long straights and the need of high speeds instad of downforce. (Compare also the SCX Ferari SP333 the the 1:1 "Giesse".)

Hallo Dagobert,
Always nice to find a fellow countryman on the www.slot

Actually most of the differences between the 2001 (which SCX modelled) and the later versions were due to regulation changes. Smaller restrictors, wings and diffusers, all in the name of safety...cause the cars kept going faster and faster and which was no good ???????
By now we have LMP's that must have a min ground clearance of a toyota Prius, and with thos skinny spoilers and huge dorsal fins...they look as ugly as well.
So even our generation can say....things used to be so much better in the past


Measuring the rules
But as we are talking about rules and regulations, those that will be applied in the LM Oxigen 24hrs will influence the appearance of the cars in just about the same way. So we had a careful look at what would be allowed and what would be our best options.

Firts off all we looked at the different motor configurations. Inline would be the easiest route, requiring but few body and chassis mods, but.... On a limited grip Ninco track you want to make use off every bit of (magna) traction you can find. And as the rules have no min ground clearance and no max magnatraction, you want to have the Motor as low as possible in your chassis.
With an offset inline bracket this would be possible but it would also mean using offset crown gears... which we did not think was a good option for a 24hr long bumpy ride.
As a Sidewinder nor the Flat 6 or the V12 would fit under de Dome Body....so an Anglewinder it was to be

Here's the first mock up, SCX chassis with a Slot.it AW motormount Flat 6 and longhub gear. Possible, but would need to fabricate guide and motorbracket mounting points....


And as we were going to use a lot of slot.it gear, we looked for a possible Slot.it donor...enter the Audi R8 Coupe.
The Audi chassis has the right guide distance and is as you might say O2 chip ready
onbly its wheel base is about 4 mm too short.
We decided that we would try to build 2 chassis, a modified Slot.it and a scratchbuild GFK. In the mean while we could start testing Tyres and gear ratio's with the Audi R8c


During this process we also discovered our first set-up problem. The Long hub set up with 20 x 11 wheels would not fit under the 62mm wide SCX body.
So out came one of my favourite tools...the Dremel bladesaw




to be continued

Tamar
Racing for Holland

Sponsored by Slotshop.nl
 

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QUOTE (tamar.nelwan @ 15 Mar 2012, 17:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>........So out came one of my favourite tools...the Dremel bladesaw
.....

Tamar
Racing for Holland

Sponsored by Slotshop.nl

That reminds me of some mail a long time ago, regarding the "how to" of

-widening wheelarches on the C-Class DTM Mercedes,
-a quick - change rear axle assembly made of spring steel
-the complete lowering of these DTM cars...

I have learnt a lot then and now I´m curious once again...

Good luck !

Roland
 
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Hi Tamar,

As always you'll take it to the max


Are you aware that SlotIt makes special 8mm rims to fit? Especially for the Audi to keep them wheels in those arches. I think the Audi R8c is as wide as the SCX Dome


regards,

Henk
 

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An old fox

QUOTE (Schackel @ 15 Mar 2012, 21:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That reminds me of some mail a long time ago, regarding the "how to" of

-widening wheelarches on the C-Class DTM Mercedes,
-a quick - change rear axle assembly made of spring steel
-the complete lowering of these DTM cars...

I have learnt a lot then and now I´m curious once again...

Good luck !

Roland

Hallo Roland

Lots of things have changed in 1/32nd over the last decade, stuff we needed then and made ourself....because ...it did not exist...can now be found on the shelf in stores or in the "new product" sections of this forum.

Even though running on Ninco tarmac requires a totally different set up then Carrera or Fleischmann tracks...somethings still remain the same.
So Yeah,this whole project's awakened a lot of memories......and quite a few tricks that I had almost forgotten


Which just shows once again, An old fox may loose his hairs...but not his tricks.

I must say, getting back into 1/32nd in the last month has been a steep learning curve, both in sorting out all the parts as sharpning our driving skills...but even an old fox is never to old...to learn ....some new Tricks
 

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Taking it to the max

QUOTE (Henk @ 16 Mar 2012, 09:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>As always you'll take it to the max

Are you aware that SlotIt makes special 8mm rims to fit? Especially for the Audi to keep them wheels in those arches. I think the Audi R8c is as wide as the SCX Dome


Hallo Henk
Like I said: Steep learning curve, SCX's Dome S101 is a good 2 mm narrower than the 64mm Slot.it Audi R8c.
So even with the 8mm rims we would have to cut the inner shoulder of the hand-out 20x11 tyres so they dont rub against the pinion. And also at that time of the project we assumed that wider=better.
So out came the dremel to take the body to the max......allowed width...within the rules


The Oxigen LM 24hrs has a clause in the body rules that specify " 1/32nd in all dimensions, ± 3mm tolerance in all measurements.
Which is probably there because.. Slot manufactures tend to take their "Scale liberties" when calculating the dimensions of their 1/32nd cars.
Actually with 62,5mm the SCX is true to scale (1/1 Dome S101 width = 1995mm) while the Slot.it R8C is 2 mm over...but within the tolerance

Actually all 1/32 LM cars should be max 63mm as the ACO rules has based its max width of 2000mm, based on what would fit in the Le Mans Pitbox with room to spare for 2 mechanics.
But hey the 1/32nd rules allow it and we needed the extra width so



A cut across the wheelarch, add 1mm on both and presto 64mm, well within the ± 3mm tolerance



Sounds easy, looks easy......so far....but it was not all easy going

to be continued

Tamar
Racing for Holland

sponsored by Slotshop.nl
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Body trouble, Body double

Scratchbuilding/ modding a slotcar is not for the faint hearted.
Remember I told you guys I'd gotten hold of this box with 4 Domes, well just one day after I had successfully widened the wheelarches..I totally ruined the first one !!!
As it turned out the body had become just slightly twisted during the glueing process with Cyanoacrylate. And it was a bit britle. So I thought to re enforce the seam with some strands of carbon and epoxy....which I tried to cure with the help of an Oven.
Happens 2 me once every decade that I absent mindedly set the wrong temperature OOps, one body totally warped and ready for the bin.

So one down...three to go.

The following pictures are not neccesarily in chronological order as I've been working on 2 bodies simultaniously, but they do show the different stages of the build.


So stage one would be were you first lower the body over the chassis to check in which areas need to be modified. Motor, bearingbrackets, spurgear etc etc.
Then you carefully start removing material from the body, at first trying to see if you can get away with just making the body thinner.
But as more and more material is removed, cutting trough the body becomes inevitable...so you grind and grind.......


.... and in the end you'll end up with something like this. I had so many holes in the body that it made more sense to just cut the whole panel out.
BTW this pic is from the next step, the plasticsheet on the inside of the wheel arches was to make room for the Spur.
Below a pic without these strips but with the first test fit of the new rear panel

Just how much the deck needed to be raised is clearly visible from the back


Side view shows how the original fender was cut to make room for the Spur





 

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Body trouble, Body double part II

Oeps, somehow some of the text on my last post got lost as the laptop ran out of battery at the same time I hit the post reply button.
Sorry for the doubble posting but here it goes:

Above a close up of the body. you can see that I left the rear intact as not to loose the original shape.
I just dremeled a recess to have something solid to glue the new body panel on.
Two strips of 0,75mm plastisheet were glued to the inner walls of the fenders to make room for the spurgear.


I did this to both sides as at that time it was unclear if we would be using a left (as in slot.it) or right mounted (as in NSR) gear set up.
After the glue had set the sides of the fenders were filed tapered so that the extension flows naturally with the original shape.



....One of the key issues of doing bodywork on a slotcar is that you can hardly use any filler as this is rigid and will come of when the body flexes (as in a crash or under normal use)
So I always do several test fittings to get a near perfect fit as possible.
Above is the last test fitting, you can see some of the thin double sided tape I use to position things, sticking out from under the motor cover
Using Zapp's slow setting and thick Cyanoacrylate glue really helps as it give you "some" time to position the parts...and it will fill small gaps



And here's the body with the new panel in place. When I check the result with the ref pictures it was obvios that I needed to extended the motor cover a bit as to recover some of the original shap. A few strips of plastisheet did the job and while at it I also cut the 2006-2006 style louvres in the new rear panel.

to be continued

Tamar
Racing for Holland

sponsored by slotshop.info
 

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Hi there Tamar,
Nice to see youre back in the 1:32 business

Allthough it has been more than a decade, it looks like you youve never been away. It reminds me of tips and tricks section in the "Hotslot Herald".
Looking foreward for the next update.
Groet Marc
 

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QUOTE (Wiggie @ 23 Mar 2012, 21:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi there Tamar,
Nice to see you're back in the 1:32 business

Allthough it has been more than a decade, it looks like you you've never been away.

Hello Marc, long time no see

We'll one thing has definately changed in a decade....my eye sight!!! Damm these cars are so small, taking of my glasses doesn't work anymore for the real close up stuff...I need reading glasses


But I must say, even though it has been more than a decade since we last raced 1/32nd @ the Molesey 24hrs it feels like yesterday since we did those "Hot Slot on Tour" trips
 
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