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Introduction
This modification adds a third sensor in the mode ABA to a single powerbase.
This will allow you to have a 3 lane start or to be able to clock laps in a pitlane alongside the start line. It will NOT allow you to identify that a car is in the pits. To do this a second power disabled powerbase is required - see thread on sector timing.
We can do all soldering on the sensing boards themselves, no need to touch the main powerbase motherboard

This rates at my difficulty rating 7/10. Wiring to the sensor track is quite difficult. The rest is easy.

What do you need?
Parts needed for this are:
One 6 car powerbase (any type including PB-Pro)
One track piece complete with sensors from either a 6 car powerbase or the new lap counter. (note 4 car powerbase does not have the necessary sensors)
Soldering iron, solder, craft knife

Preparation
The track piece with sensors has to be cut in half. This is not too difficult.
Remove the senor boards from the track.
Mark out the centreline of the track and cut with a sharp craft knife

Score both boards at the middle, and on both sides to a depth that you can feel with a thumbnail (roughly half a millimetre will do)
Bend the boards, if you have scored on both sides they should snap cleanly along the line.
We will only use the half with the wires on. Keep the other half for the future (or donate to me!)
Check wire length is OK on the half board for it to reach the terminals on the whole board. You may be lucky for a 3 lane start, almost certainly not for a pit lane. If not then you will need to replace the wires, these are sense wires with little power requirement. I generally use 4 or 6 core alarm wire, these are thin and colour coded. Try and keep the colour codes the same, or else you will get mighty confused in the future when you come back and look at it….

Board Modifications

Blade sensor Half board

Red wire stays as is. Unsolder the other 3 wires ready for connecting to different places.
White wire reconnected to the yellow pad
Yellow wire reconnected to the black pad
Black wire repositioned to the LED lower terminal


Blade sensor Whole board
Two new wires from LED to LED crossing over in an X
Cut the thin track at the very edge of the board that connects the LEDs together (marked "x" in red)
Unsolder the yellow wire from its pad.


ID sensor Half board
Remove blue wire
Reposition green wire to slim sense track (marked in red on photo). First scratch green insulator from track. Then heat track with a soldering iron and melt a tiny amount of solder onto it. Now solder wire to the track.


ID Sensor Whole board
No mods except clean and prepare the same sense track as above

Wiring up

Blade sensor Connecting

Wire half board red and black wires to the main board red and black terminals
Connect half board yellow wire to the whole board yellow wire. Do not connect to the board.
Connect half board white wire to the whole board yellow pad.


ID Sensor Connecting
Wire half board red and black wires to the whole board red and black terminals
Connect half board green wire to the whole board sense track


Assembly
I stick the half board to the track to make sure they stay in position. I use "no-nails" adhesive - you should use something similar.

Testing
Run a car across each lane. Ensure it is counting. Try a different ID car and check each lane picks up the change of ID.

Troubleshooting
Make sure all sensors work before starting this!
If no lanes count then check the cut on the blade sensor whole board
If neither the pit lane (lane 3) and lane 1 count check the yellow and white wires connections
If just lane 3 doesn't count then check the green wire is connected soundly, and check the black and red wires from half board to whole board
 
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