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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do your lights go out when the car stops, or dim when going slow? Do you have brakelights that illuminate when you press the brake button? No? If you want them then this is the dummies guide

Difficulty level 2. Capable teenagers, doddery old slotters, and anyone inbetween J

Tools/materials

Superglue

Soldering iron small tip 18-25 watt, plus flux loaded solder (I prefer leaded solder as it melts quicker)

Craft knife

Black heatshrink and red heatshrink or electrical tape

JST 4 way 1.5mm pitch connector and flying lead (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Sets-Micro-JST-ZH-1-5mm-4-Pin-Male-Female-Connector-Wires-Cables-15cm/291998347951?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

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X40 eyeglass

One of the latest grey packaging Scalextric C8515 rev H (must be the grey version)

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Look for grey packaging and an 8 digit product code after REF01 on the rear. The old ones are all blue packaging and have a 5 digit code

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Part one chip modification

The chip is held to the black plastic mount by 4 pins that are heat staked to hold the board in place.

You need to trim off the heat staked part for all four pins.

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Prise the chip from the mount using something non metallic, twisting the handle of a craft knife works well.

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Look at the chip carefully, there are four holes for mounting the connector, and there is a white outline marked on the board to show where it goes. Note the pins are not central, the box is offset. The connector only fits one way.

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Fit the connector, make sure the pins are all through and the connector is flat on the board

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Solder all 4 pins one at a time. Melt a small amount of solder on the tip of your soldering iron, put the tip onto one pin and then melt a small amount more and ensure it has flowed onto the pad on the board

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Use an eyeglass to make sure the pins are not joined by solder bridges. If so use solder wick or a solder sucker to remove some of the solder

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Apply superglue to all 4 of the black plastic mounting pins

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Fit board.

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Chip is now finished

Next in Part 2: Modifying the car loom
 

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Part 2 the wiring loom

I've got way too many cars untouched in boxes - and it was difficult to decide on a guinea pig, but the Camero drew the short straw…

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I used 2mm diameter red and black heatshrink

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Cut the red and black wires back to 65mm (just under 3 inches), no need to shorten the yellow and white wires.

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Now trim the insulation off the last 3mm for both wires and retin (apply a tiny bit of solder to the exposed wire

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Cut some of the heatshrink to act as polarity indicators

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Use a hot gun to shrink onto the wires - note red goes on the black and yellow wires, black goes on the white and red wires.

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Disassemble car

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Unsolder rear light wires from motor

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Remove remaining part from board, noting which was positive (red).
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Fit the white and yellow wires the same way the old ones came off, make sure yellow goes where the old red wire was

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Unsolder front board

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Connect new wiring loom to board. Don't forget to ensure connections are swapped red wire for black

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Seal off the old headlight wires with heatshrink (or cut back to connector)

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Fit body back on, check routing of wires is not stopping body fitting all the way down.

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Fit new chip

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No throttle headlights

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No throttle tail lights

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Rear and brake lights

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Finally add a sticker if you are old and likely to forget where you put a special chip
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ade, waiting for some more chips, but I don't think there will be any limit for the sort of normal lights we use. More interested in motor power testing, how hot can we now go?
 

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I use a couple options depending on what I am soldering. I use these,

Weller WES51 with .015" tip

878AD Rework Station

Andonstar HDMI digital Microscope

Good lighting, very fine tweezers, and fine point dental picks

Good fine solder and flux

I have been soldering lights onto the C8515 Rev G chips, SP15b chips, and soldering wires on the chips for programming InCar-Pro.

I also solder SMD for headlights and tail lights for non lighted cars.

I have found these tools make the job a lot easier and much more fun to do.

I am no expert, just learning as I go, I have a long way to go to catch up to Greg and Riko
thumbsup2.gif


Shad
 

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Ade all true verniers are analogue - the term refers to the scales that line up. digital verniers are an anachronism...

Hi
another great guide
thumbsup.gif
but really Colin analogue vernier on a digital thread
lmfao.gif
 

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Those would get you started. If you find you are soldering more and more, you can always get a nicer Iron.

I like and iron I can control my heat setting.

You have to start somewhere though, I use some of my older irons with blades for cutting plastics and foam.

Shad
 

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Beware of poisonous fumes .......... :unsure:
 

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I got one of these a couple of years ago for £50 and have been very happy with it, expensive yes but for me it makes soldering easier as the old 25W iron I had just didn't get hot enough to melt the non-lead solder you get these days. Probably not an issue for a pro but I found it quite frustrating in the end - hence the purchase....

https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/60w-mains-lcd-solder-station-a55kj

Also meant to say Maplin IMHO is an expensive place to buy any electronic stuff...you could save a good few quid by shopping around online without the 4 week wait.
 
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