[RikoRocket]

Do your lights go out when the car stops, or dim when going slow? Do you have brakelights that illuminate when you press the brake button? No? If you want them then this is the dummies guide

Difficulty level 2. Capable teenagers, doddery old slotters, and anyone inbetween J

Tools/materials

Superglue

Soldering iron small tip 18-25 watt, plus flux loaded solder (I prefer leaded solder as it melts quicker)

Craft knife

Black heatshrink and red heatshrink or electrical tape

JST 4 way 1.5mm pitch connector and flying lead (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Sets-Micro-JST-ZH-1-5mm-4-Pin-Male-Female-Connector-Wires-Cables-15cm/291998347951?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

X40 eyeglass

One of the latest grey packaging Scalextric C8515 rev H (must be the grey version)

Look for grey packaging and an 8 digit product code after REF01 on the rear. The old ones are all blue packaging and have a 5 digit code

Part one chip modification

The chip is held to the black plastic mount by 4 pins that are heat staked to hold the board in place.

You need to trim off the heat staked part for all four pins.

Prise the chip from the mount using something non metallic, twisting the handle of a craft knife works well.

Look at the chip carefully, there are four holes for mounting the connector, and there is a white outline marked on the board to show where it goes. Note the pins are not central, the box is offset. The connector only fits one way.

Fit the connector, make sure the pins are all through and the connector is flat on the board

Solder all 4 pins one at a time. Melt a small amount of solder on the tip of your soldering iron, put the tip onto one pin and then melt a small amount more and ensure it has flowed onto the pad on the board

Use an eyeglass to make sure the pins are not joined by solder bridges. If so use solder wick or a solder sucker to remove some of the solder

Apply superglue to all 4 of the black plastic mounting pins

Fit board.

Chip is now finished

Next in Part 2: Modifying the car loom

 

[GRUNZ]

Nice one. I do not have any of these chips yet but I have ordered the JST plugs.

 

[Ade]

Hi

excellent Colin

I suppose with the opening sentence then I must try soldering one of these myself

But come on Scalextric why are they not pre fitted

 

[shorty54]

Ah, this is way too easy! Just when I was getting good at micro soldering lights onto the Rev G chips. I'm sure it will be awhile before I see a Rev H chip

 

[Ade]

Hi

are there any indications as to what sort of led's can be used with the new chip, for instance could super bright smd ones be used straight off the board

 

[RikoRocket]

Part 2 the wiring loom

I've got way too many cars untouched in boxes - and it was difficult to decide on a guinea pig, but the Camero drew the short straw…

I used 2mm diameter red and black heatshrink

Cut the red and black wires back to 65mm (just under 3 inches), no need to shorten the yellow and white wires.

Now trim the insulation off the last 3mm for both wires and retin (apply a tiny bit of solder to the exposed wire

Cut some of the heatshrink to act as polarity indicators

Use a hot gun to shrink onto the wires - note red goes on the black and yellow wires, black goes on the white and red wires.

Disassemble car

Unsolder rear light wires from motor

Remove remaining part from board, noting which was positive (red).

Fit the white and yellow wires the same way the old ones came off, make sure yellow goes where the old red wire was

Unsolder front board

Connect new wiring loom to board. Don't forget to ensure connections are swapped red wire for black

Seal off the old headlight wires with heatshrink (or cut back to connector)

Fit body back on, check routing of wires is not stopping body fitting all the way down.

Fit new chip

No throttle headlights

No throttle tail lights

Rear and brake lights

Finally add a sticker if you are old and likely to forget where you put a special chip

 

[RikoRocket]

Ade, waiting for some more chips, but I don't think there will be any limit for the sort of normal lights we use. More interested in motor power testing, how hot can we now go?

 

[Ade]

Hi

another great guide

but really Colin analogue vernier on a digital thread

 

[dcurzon]

It does make me wonder why Scaley didn't just fit the socket... it would have cost them pennies. Would we be happy to pay an additional £1 on the retail price of the board? i would

 

[dcurzon]

Any recomendations for a budget soldering iron (or a set with holders and magnifying glass) ?
Thanks

 

[RACING LINE]

I bought one of these and find it very useful but I am not an expert

https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pro-iroda-solderpro-120w-gas-soldering-iron-kit-n15ar

 

[shorty54]

I use a couple options depending on what I am soldering. I use these,

Weller WES51 with .015" tip

878AD Rework Station

Andonstar HDMI digital Microscope

Good lighting, very fine tweezers, and fine point dental picks

Good fine solder and flux

I have been soldering lights onto the C8515 Rev G chips, SP15b chips, and soldering wires on the chips for programming InCar-Pro.

I also solder SMD for headlights and tail lights for non lighted cars.

I have found these tools make the job a lot easier and much more fun to do.

I am no expert, just learning as I go, I have a long way to go to catch up to Greg and Riko

Shad

 

[RikoRocket]

Ade all true verniers are analogue - the term refers to the scales that line up. digital verniers are an anachronism...

Hi
another great guide

but really Colin analogue vernier on a digital thread

 

[dcurzon]

How about something like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Different-Anti-static-Desoldering-Additional/dp/B07285XZ43/ref=dp_ob_title_hi

together with

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LC63UQW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2TCE7AWLAG659&coliid=I369KJSEAUPR0D

 

[shorty54]

How about something like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Different-Anti-static-Desoldering-Additional/dp/B07285XZ43/ref=dp_ob_title_hi

together with

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LC63UQW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2TCE7AWLAG659&coliid=I369KJSEAUPR0D

Those would get you started. If you find you are soldering more and more, you can always get a nicer Iron.

I like and iron I can control my heat setting.

You have to start somewhere though, I use some of my older irons with blades for cutting plastics and foam.

Shad

 

[GregK]

Beware of poisonous fumes ..........

 

[RikoRocket]

60 watts is a bit severe

search ebay for an antex xs25 or cs18

 

[RikoRocket]

this is microelectronics not heavy duty soldering!!!

 

[RikoRocket]

the third hand looks good

 

[portals999]

I got one of these a couple of years ago for £50 and have been very happy with it, expensive yes but for me it makes soldering easier as the old 25W iron I had just didn't get hot enough to melt the non-lead solder you get these days. Probably not an issue for a pro but I found it quite frustrating in the end - hence the purchase....

https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/60w-mains-lcd-solder-station-a55kj

Also meant to say Maplin IMHO is an expensive place to buy any electronic stuff...you could save a good few quid by shopping around online without the 4 week wait.