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· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day a fellow slotter and myself were out and about and happened across a pair of Revell Jaguar E-Types. Very cheap, very pretty and very alluring but I fought shy of buying one. My friend didn't have the same willpower and so he scurried off to try out his new purchase - and reports that it is 'not too bad'.

I'd like something E-Typey and fear that I might have made an error of judgement. So I've been eyeballing my options for a decent non-mag Jag. We've got Ninco, Revell and Scalextric with lightweight cars and then Ninco and SCX with FHCs. All are front-motored. But which is the most pre-furred (geddit)?

Lightweights:

Revell - looks too tall and the bonnet has a very pronounced hump. But it is very pretty.

Scalextric - probably the most accurate proportions but tiny wheels, tractor tyres and all the usual guide/front wheel issues with Margate.

Ninco - probably too wide and very low at the nose in an 'Adrian-Newey-cheating-at-the-Revival' sort of way. Bonnet hump practically non-existent.

It doesn't have to be competitive but it does have to be fun to drive and look like it should be on the grid for the Kinrara Trophy... what's your pick? And why?

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· David H
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Definitely Rev/Mon. The Ninco car is huge and the Scalextric car is, well, Scalextric. Probably the worst thing about the Revell model is the fit of the windows; they should sit much more flush with the bodywork than they do.

I got a Revell lightweight running quite well on its standard chassis, but turned it into a brilliant runner when I fitted it with an Olifer 3D printed chassis.

Parts used were all run of the mill stuff:

Olifer inline chassis;

Slot.it 0.0mm offset inline pod;

Slot.it MX15 V12/4-21 motor;

Slot.it 15.8 x 8.2 x 2.5 rear wheels;

Slot.it 15.8 x 8.2 x 1.5 front wheels;

9:29 gearing;

Paul Gage 21105 rear tyres and cut down Paul Gage at the front, although I'll probably choose something from NSR's Classic range next time;

Original plastic wheels turned down and used as inserts.

I also shortened the shell's body posts a little to make the body sit lower.

It was a bit of work and the parts weren't cheap, but it's a super little car now, so much so that I have two more Olifer chassis waiting to be fitted to another two Revell E-Types.

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This is the car in its original unmolested state.

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I agree with David as I have the same Jaguar , with slot-it running gear , and it's a very nice car to drive after a minor work.

another solution if you are looking for an accurate car : try to find some resin kits of the E-Type , Ghostmodel or Topslot for example .
 

· Electric model car driver
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I also have two of the silver Revell Jags and still trying to decide what to do with one of them to make it fast. I also have the white Revell version that I keep trying to get it to run OK in front motor layout although a tamer motor has improved it a lot. But my favourite E Type is one of my Nincos (the same as the 1st photo), and that (with a bit of work) is a solid performer in our 18k pre 80's sports car class. The side window and 4X4 wheels of the Scaley version still dampens my enthusiasm for them but I'll likely give in somewhere along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, chaps - knew I could rely on you!

David that Lindner car looks utterly brilliant. That's my idea of Sunday motoring! However that is rather a pricey option when you see how much the donor car is going for, so I might fight shy of that one.

On balance I think I'll take a trip to George Turner's emporium and start from a bare kit based on the Revell body. At least that way the mistakes are my own!
 

· Alfie Noakes
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I did a review of that top Ninco E-type a while ago. It was from the old forum so maybe lost but I'll see if I can find the link.

EDIT: https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79681

In the mean time, you know when people say Robin Reliant instead of Reliant Robin, and other people then roll their eyes and moan that they said it the wrong way around, and you wouldn't say Astra Vauxhall, well... E type Jag.
 

· Peter Seager-Thomas
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I'd agree with David, the Revell Lidner car.

It has slightly wider wheels than the hardtop version, so perhaps greater potential.

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The car has been lowered slightly, but it was too high anyway.

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The front wheels are standard, the rears home-brew, but only because one of the originals split at the mounting boss.

One day it may get an uprated motor, but not yet, it is just fine as it is....

Oh, and I have to say it, one of the few cars made with proper 'handed' knock-on nuts!

Peter.
 

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· Registered
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Gentlemen-

Both your E-types are works of art --

--now, how 'fast' are they??? Do they equal the lap times of a slot.it GT40 ---????

This is where I run into a conundrum -- I want a class of early 60's GT cars (including Fly GTO's) and do I have to convert them all the way I've had to convert FLY 935's - just to be able to run with Sideways cars????

I'd rather spend the money on new RTR - but a sweet handling lightweight is almost toooooo much to resist!!!

WOnderful work, Gentlemen.....
 

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I have both the Ninco and RevMon versions. To be quite honest I am not sure which one I prefer. The big difference: the RevMon looked like it was on stilts when I got it: I had to drop it quite a bit to get it to look AND handle anywhere near decent.

Neither of them are particularly fast but both are pretty decent runners. Handle acceptably well and are fun to drive. And coincidentally best lap times are pretty close @ 7.402 (Ninco) and 7.508 (RevMon). Mechanically both still original motors, front motored, metal rear wheels on the Ninco, RevMon guide extended by few mm.

And FWIW I do not see the hugeness that Dopamine mentioned: I have just checked them next to each other: wheelbase and track are all but identical, width within 1/2mm (Ninco wider) and length within 1.5mm (RevMon longer!). Attached images: RevMon red, Ninco green

UPDATE: In looking at the car from directly above I see where the perception of hugeness comes from. Perhaps the combination of extra width and less length does make the Ninco look markedly bigger. Also noticed that the Ninco has a pronounced "Coke bottle" shape: wide over the fenders. In my initial check I measured across the doors. Measuring across the front fenders makes the Ninco 1.5mm wider.
 

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I had the Revell lightweight. I thought it oh, so pretty. Wheels didn't fill the arches as I recall but, oh, so pretty.

Ran like utter crap.

Without the magnet.

On Ninco plexy.

Wouldn't be ballasted to run well so... sold it. Good riddance. I do so hate it when a car is beautiful but needs the mugnut.

Looking at Dope's efforts, though... oh, so pretty. Oh. So. Pretty.
 

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I'm intrigued - how did you manage that? Is it still the stock guide?

Was it easy to drop the RevMon down on the stock chassis?
Ouch, I did this work so long ago I now had to take the car apart to see what it looks like to jog my memory:

Guide extension: I had some kind of a donor chassis available from somewhere: I really do not recall what brand or what model. So I cut the guide portion off that chassis and just glued it in place: worked perfectly. Used a Slot.it universal screw in guide.

Body lowering: this required quite a bit of surgery! Cut down the body posts; ground away some material in the front part of body by grille; ground out the interior: cut away the high sides on the chassis behind the motor to clear the interior; cut away the "pockets" on the body mounts on the chassis. In looking at it I should probably stiffen the chassis a touch between the motor and the rear axle but it really has not been a problem thus far. As mentioned: a giant killer performance-wise it certainly isn't! But it runs sweetly enough.

Attached images show what it looks like better than my words!
 

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· Electric model car driver
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While perusing the web I found this photo so I decided mine could also do with a wider front track to aid stability.

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Body partly separated from chassis, Scalextric Caterham wheels with Supergrip rears and a Carrera E200 motor make for a good drive and a very competitive car.

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· Electric model car driver
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Now that's intriguing on many levels - which Supergroups fit on Caterham wheels, then??
If I recall correctly I used tyres for Ford Mk4 (NSR5236) on the Jag, and being as the centre ridge is only 4mm I made up the gap with one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/O-ring-ID-x-cross-mm-12-x-1-DIN-3770-EU-origin-variable-pack-material-/152611186750?var=&hash=item0 glued onto the hub with super glue. I'm pretty sure my Caterham has NSR 5234 on it along with an O-ring filler.
 

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Did somebody say E-Types??? I've a few. All are beautiful but most if not all are bad runners unless you do as some have already done and put a 3D chassis under them.

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I am partial to the lines of the coupes.

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These two are modded somewhat. The Ninco on the left has a Slot It 21.5K, wheels and gears. I cut down the stock wheels for the rears and used them as inserts. The Revell on the right has the same aftermarket motor and gearing as the Ninco but with a 3D chassis and Slot It Fly F40 wheel inserts. It looks better in person all hunkered down.

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Big meats (SuperTires silicones) on the back...
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I got outbid on a Revell E-Type. Seems to me that the Ninco is the easiest route, and there is that slightly perverse wish to make a Scalextric work properly. They did it so well with the Sierra and BMW, you think that the world is now a better place and all is well and then... ugh!... the modern BTCC cars appear.

I think the Scalextric is the prettiest. And that counts for a lot with E-Types. But it would need D-Type wheels which are expensive as parts and begs the question why they weren't fitted to the car as standard...
 
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